OilyPablo
Member
My SS Ruger Blackhawk Base Pin comes out when firing hot loads. Is there a fix for that? Stronger latch spring?(My Ruger Blackhawk convertible doesn't have this problem)
Ruger Blackhawk Base Pin comes out
- Thread starter OilyPablo
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Over on the Ruger Forum there is a lot of love for Belt Mountain base pins. Has a set screw that can be tightened down to prevent the base from moving. http://www.beltmountain.com
OP
OP
OilyPablo
Member
Bud - that is awesome. Thanks for the link!
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Yes, the Belt Mountain base pin is the only way to fly for all single actions!!
Not only will it not come out once properly installed?
It fits much better then the factory base pin, and will take out a lot of cylinder slop.
rc
Not only will it not come out once properly installed?
It fits much better then the factory base pin, and will take out a lot of cylinder slop.
rc
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
If the holes in the frame or the cylinder aren't dead straight, it can also cause a little problem with the cylinder spinning free.
I picked up a Cimarron Model P in .44 Special not long ago. Everything was fine during the initial examination, but it went all fugasi when the cylinder was loaded. The cylinder got pretty tight from the case rims dragging on the recoil shield. I determined what the problem was, and got it squared away by chucking the pin up in a lathe and removing .002 inch from the center section with a smooth mill file.
7mmb
Member
I went with a stronger Wolff base pin spring on my 45 Blackhawk Convertible. The Belt Mountain is the best but removing it looked like a PITA to me. At the time I did a lot of shooting with both cylinders. The Wolff spring eliminated most of the problem but my taste for shooting the really heavy stuff has waned so it's not really an issue for me anymore. My 357 Blackhawk has never had the problem and still has the factory spring.
CSA 357
Member
back off the 2400 and see if that helps
seeing how the pin is coming out, the base pin latch nut is probably already rounded off.
suggest you purchase a belt mountain base pin from belt mountain, a ruger base pin latch kit from brownells, and remove any burrs left in the base pin and base pin latch holes in your frame (careful use of a round file).
i don't recommend the base pin with the set screw as this requires you to carry the appropriate allen wrench with you in the field for cylinder removal (you will eventually need to do this at some point in time).
this fix should keep the base pin secure with any load.
murf
suggest you purchase a belt mountain base pin from belt mountain, a ruger base pin latch kit from brownells, and remove any burrs left in the base pin and base pin latch holes in your frame (careful use of a round file).
i don't recommend the base pin with the set screw as this requires you to carry the appropriate allen wrench with you in the field for cylinder removal (you will eventually need to do this at some point in time).
this fix should keep the base pin secure with any load.
murf
Driftwood Johnson
Member
Howdy
I have Belt Mountain Base pins in several Rugers and 3 Colts.
First off, I too do not recommend the pin with the set screw, for two reasons.
1, it is a pain to keep that teeny little Allen wrench around if you want to pull the cylinder and do a little bit of cleaning at the range.
2, if you overtighten the screw just a teeny bit too much, it bends the pin, causing the cylinder to bind.
First time I tried a Belt Mountain pin in one of my Rugers that was my experience. All the Belt Mountain pins I have now are the type that does not use the set screw, and they all work great.
But they are not all a drop on fix for the problem of pins jumping forward under heavy recoil.
The real cause of the problem is the latch parts are not properly fitted to the pin. This is understandable because Rugers are mass produced guns.
Before changing the pin, try this test. First, remove the pin and the cylinder. Then pull the latch all the way to one side against spring tension and let it go. Notice how smartly it snaps all the way, and in particular notice how far it snaps. Then put the cylinder and pin back in and repeat the test. What happens? Does the latch snap smartly all the way over as it did when there was no pin present? It should. If it does not, if it only snaps part of the way, the latch and the pin are not properly fitted. When they are properly fitted to each other, the latch will snap smartly all the way over and prevent the pin from jumping forward under heavy recoil.
There are three (3) fixes for an improperly fit latch and pin.
1. Fit them properly.
2. Replace the latch spring with a stronger spring.
3. Replace the cylinder pin with a Belt Mountain pin.
Sometimes it takes a combination of a couple of these fixes to get a satisfactory result. If you only go the 2nd or 3rd route, you are addressing the symptoms, not the problem.
Ruger cylinder pins come in two varieties. One has the groove for the latch cut completely around the pin, the other has a single horizontal cut across the pin. The second type is the better pin because there will be more surface contact between the latch parts and the pin. There is less contact with the type of pin that has the groove cut around it. Belt Mountain pins are of the second type, with the engagement cut going across the pin. Because the cut is horizontal, the pin must be oriented properly when it is put in the gun or you will jam it against the barrel. No big deal really, you just have to be aware of it.
Here is what I have done with most of my cylinder pin fitting problems. I buy the Belt Mountain pin, without the set screw. Then I put it in place in the gun and try the test I mentioned earlier. Chances are, I will have to do a little bit of fitting. This is very simple. You take a Sharpie and ink up the groove in the pin. Then you put it back in the gun and try the test. Then you observe where the ink has been rubbed off the pin. That is where the surfaces of the two parts are in contact. Then I take a very small jeweller's rat tail file and remove just a tiny bit of metal where the ink has not been removed. Just a tiny bit. Then ink up the pin again and reinsert and try the test again. After a few trials, and removing just a tad of metal each time, the latch will snap smartly all the way to the end of its travel as it is supposed to.
I have done this with several Rugers and Colts, all of which are chambered for 45 Colt. After this treatment, the pin never jumps forward again, even with full house Black Powder loads.
I have Belt Mountain Base pins in several Rugers and 3 Colts.
First off, I too do not recommend the pin with the set screw, for two reasons.
1, it is a pain to keep that teeny little Allen wrench around if you want to pull the cylinder and do a little bit of cleaning at the range.
2, if you overtighten the screw just a teeny bit too much, it bends the pin, causing the cylinder to bind.
First time I tried a Belt Mountain pin in one of my Rugers that was my experience. All the Belt Mountain pins I have now are the type that does not use the set screw, and they all work great.
But they are not all a drop on fix for the problem of pins jumping forward under heavy recoil.
The real cause of the problem is the latch parts are not properly fitted to the pin. This is understandable because Rugers are mass produced guns.
Before changing the pin, try this test. First, remove the pin and the cylinder. Then pull the latch all the way to one side against spring tension and let it go. Notice how smartly it snaps all the way, and in particular notice how far it snaps. Then put the cylinder and pin back in and repeat the test. What happens? Does the latch snap smartly all the way over as it did when there was no pin present? It should. If it does not, if it only snaps part of the way, the latch and the pin are not properly fitted. When they are properly fitted to each other, the latch will snap smartly all the way over and prevent the pin from jumping forward under heavy recoil.
There are three (3) fixes for an improperly fit latch and pin.
1. Fit them properly.
2. Replace the latch spring with a stronger spring.
3. Replace the cylinder pin with a Belt Mountain pin.
Sometimes it takes a combination of a couple of these fixes to get a satisfactory result. If you only go the 2nd or 3rd route, you are addressing the symptoms, not the problem.
Ruger cylinder pins come in two varieties. One has the groove for the latch cut completely around the pin, the other has a single horizontal cut across the pin. The second type is the better pin because there will be more surface contact between the latch parts and the pin. There is less contact with the type of pin that has the groove cut around it. Belt Mountain pins are of the second type, with the engagement cut going across the pin. Because the cut is horizontal, the pin must be oriented properly when it is put in the gun or you will jam it against the barrel. No big deal really, you just have to be aware of it.
Here is what I have done with most of my cylinder pin fitting problems. I buy the Belt Mountain pin, without the set screw. Then I put it in place in the gun and try the test I mentioned earlier. Chances are, I will have to do a little bit of fitting. This is very simple. You take a Sharpie and ink up the groove in the pin. Then you put it back in the gun and try the test. Then you observe where the ink has been rubbed off the pin. That is where the surfaces of the two parts are in contact. Then I take a very small jeweller's rat tail file and remove just a tiny bit of metal where the ink has not been removed. Just a tiny bit. Then ink up the pin again and reinsert and try the test again. After a few trials, and removing just a tad of metal each time, the latch will snap smartly all the way to the end of its travel as it is supposed to.
I have done this with several Rugers and Colts, all of which are chambered for 45 Colt. After this treatment, the pin never jumps forward again, even with full house Black Powder loads.
98Redline
Member
^ This
I have a couple of blackhawks and a couple of super blackhawks. When properly adjusted the base pin latch will not come out under even the stiffest recoil.
I have not yet installed any of the Belt Mountain pins and for the meantime don't plan to.
I have a couple of blackhawks and a couple of super blackhawks. When properly adjusted the base pin latch will not come out under even the stiffest recoil.
I have not yet installed any of the Belt Mountain pins and for the meantime don't plan to.
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