Ruger GP-100 trigger help.....

[W Turner]

Recently had a beautiful blued Ruger GP 100 given to me. I love this pistol, but the trigger is .....well......in need of some TLC. The main problem with the pull that I have is the stacking at the very end. This is almost totally a range gun, so I have some wiggle room if someone recommends changing springs.

I was wondering if I could just strip the revolver per the manual, polish everything I can get to and get any results. I am not familiar enough with the works of these revolvers to attempt any kind of detail disassembly.

Thanks,
Mino

 

[Remander]

I'm no 'smith, but I recently bought a new SS GP100. I stripped it per manual, cleaned and lubed, and have dry fired it lots (plus trips to the range and stripping/cleaning after each).

Even w/o doing any machine-polishing, I can feel the trigger improving in just a few weeks.

 

[P95Carry]

No GP-100 experience but did play a lot with my first Redhawk .. same mechanics. I got a three spring set (Wolff I guess) and experimented.

The middle spring turned out to be strong enough for reliable ignition and eased the load a bit .. the weakest was .. well, too weak!

At same time as i had trigger group out and hammer etc, I did polish all mating parts ... just ''polish'' no stoning at all. At end of day ... with slightly easier spring, smoother surfaces and a judicious lube (very minimal) ... it did ease a bit .. followed by much dry fire.

Over time the trigger became more than acceptable.

 

[HSMITH]

If you want "glass rod" like a nicely tuned target gun send it out. The Ruger is much more difficult to get that smooth crisp pull than a Smith or a Python, but it can be awfully nice.....

 

[MR.G]

Had a GP100 with a heavy trigger pull. Installed a Wolf spring kit and it made a big difference.

 

[Sunray]

You do a trigger job on a GP exactly the same way you do on a .45. Clip off a 1/4 turn or so on the mainspring and polish the innards smooth. Changing the springs is less hit-or-miss though. The polishing is essential. Did mine long ago and it's got a nice trigger.

 

[W Turner]

Thanks for all of the replies. I do have a few questions though....

1- When you say polish the innards do you mean when it is dissassembled per manual or is there more involved?

2- How difficult is it to change the springs?

3- Are there any dissassembly instructions on the net that anyone is aware of?

Thanks guys,
Mino

 

[P95Carry]

It really is a long time since I did my Redhawk ...... in fact really oughta do same to Super Redhawk. IIRC I did disassemble way beyond field strip situation .... and some of it is not easy .... reassembly being quite a fiddle.

However .. main thing IMO is to do thwe whole job methodically ...... some of it under a thin sheet so as to catch an errant springs .. then lay out all components ''surgically'' ..... then deal with each relevant part with a bearing surface against another .. and carefully polish.

I am sure . certain in fact ... exploded dwg's are out there ... just need to search a bit .. no link comes to mind right now.

Spring changing (mainspring) is not too bad .. just use the supplied pin (or small piece of music wire) to keep spring compressed during removal of hammer essembly ... then maybe you'll have to fight a bit to substitute!! Way too long ago I did this but managed!!

 

[JimJD]

Minotaur, there's a downloadable instruction manual on Ruger's website.
In it you'll find what you need.
Here's a link: GP-100 Inst. Manual

I just picked up a GP-100. Have'nt gotten to shoot it yet. But am very happy with the fit and finish. Not to mention the trigger. I must have gotten lucky!

 

[Sunray]

Hi. Take off the grips and the side panel. Pull all the moving parts out. Relax, there aren't a whole bunch of itty-bitty parts. All decent stubby-finger sized parts and not many.(open the side of a Colt revolver sometime. Whole bunch of odd flat springs and levers. What a mess. Smith's are too bad, but you need one special tool, that's easily made, to get the trigger return spring out) Polish out all tools marks. Especially the mating surfaces of the sear and hammer. NOTE: This is polish only. No files. Use only jeweller's rouge and a buffing wheel.
Change the springs if you want. It's no big deal. Getting them out is kind of obvious once you open it up. It's not rocket science nor do you need any special tools as I recall. It's been a long time. No spring kits in those days. If you change the springs, don't clip off the 1/4 turn. Won't be needed.

 

[1911Tuner]

Try this

Before you cut any coils off the spring, make up a slurry of J&B Bore cleaner and CLP Breakfree. Make up a mix that will just start to sag off the end of
a screwdriver, but not drip off. Coat the trigger group with the mixture and
reassemble. Dry-fire it about 200 times and rinse the mixture out, and
re-lube it. When dry firing, use the weak-hand thumb across the hammer
spur to slow it down. The stack and break is the main issue.
A Bullseye spring kit will be the icing on the cake.

Luck to ya!

Tuner