Riomouse911
Member
I have a 3” .44 Spl. GP 100 that had a less than stellar trigger pull weight since the day it came home with me. After asking for advice and tips from THR about working on several of my S&W revolvers, i improved the triggers with Wolff spring kits and a touch of smoothing using 2000 grit wet-dry and a flat block. This worked so well I decided to do the same to the GP and SP 101.
## I will say the takedown of the Ruger DA revolver is much easier than the Smith, as it doesn’t require small screws and a side plate removal. Pop the grips, capture the hammer spring, push in a latch with a screwdriver tip and all the trigger parts drop free. You Tube rules for these simpler DIY projects! ##
I put in the 12 lb hammer and 10 lb trigger return springs, smoothed out the tunnel the return firing slides in and super-lightly touched the mating surfaces. I took it to the range today with the SP 101, a S&W Model 67 no dash that I also did trigger work on and some 9mms.
What a difference! 100 pct ignition with CCI, WLP and Federal primers shooting a few different reloads. A stack-free and smooth trigger pull all the way through the GP’s DA cycle
.
(And like a numbskull I forgot to photo the before weight, I think it was at 11.5!lb DA. The SP was off the 12 lb max for my Lyman gauge.)
Now the GP is roughly 8 lbs DA and 2.5 lbs SA.
Groups shrank as well, with 20 of my 200 gr RNFP over 7.3 gr Unique loads shooting about 4” high but tight at 10 yds DA, and a light 165 gr TCFP over 5.4 gr IMR Target hitting POA, also at 10 yds DA. (The gun is set for 25 yds with the 200 gr load.
Thanks to all of you who walked me through the S&W spring changes, moving on to the SP/GP models was easy after learning what to do once the guns are opened up.
Here are the pull weights for the SP and Model 67, both were also 100 pct today with the same three brands of SP primers as well. The 67 is smooooth but the SP 101 still has a bit of a stack despite the 12 lb hammer & 10 lb trigger springs in it (Wilson Combat kit not a Wolff).
Stay safe.
## I will say the takedown of the Ruger DA revolver is much easier than the Smith, as it doesn’t require small screws and a side plate removal. Pop the grips, capture the hammer spring, push in a latch with a screwdriver tip and all the trigger parts drop free. You Tube rules for these simpler DIY projects! ##
I put in the 12 lb hammer and 10 lb trigger return springs, smoothed out the tunnel the return firing slides in and super-lightly touched the mating surfaces. I took it to the range today with the SP 101, a S&W Model 67 no dash that I also did trigger work on and some 9mms.
What a difference! 100 pct ignition with CCI, WLP and Federal primers shooting a few different reloads. A stack-free and smooth trigger pull all the way through the GP’s DA cycle
.
(And like a numbskull I forgot to photo the before weight, I think it was at 11.5!lb DA. The SP was off the 12 lb max for my Lyman gauge.)
Now the GP is roughly 8 lbs DA and 2.5 lbs SA.
Groups shrank as well, with 20 of my 200 gr RNFP over 7.3 gr Unique loads shooting about 4” high but tight at 10 yds DA, and a light 165 gr TCFP over 5.4 gr IMR Target hitting POA, also at 10 yds DA.
(The gun is set for 25 yds with the 200 gr load.
Thanks to all of you who walked me through the S&W spring changes, moving on to the SP/GP models was easy after learning what to do once the guns are opened up.
Here are the pull weights for the SP and Model 67, both were also 100 pct today with the same three brands of SP primers as well. The 67 is smooooth but the SP 101 still has a bit of a stack despite the 12 lb hammer & 10 lb trigger springs in it (Wilson Combat kit not a Wolff).
Stay safe.
