ruger gp100 vrs. s&w 64-3
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SabbathWolf
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The only GP100 I ever owned was a 357.
I didn't know they made a 38spl?
Either way though, I'd "always" pick a 357 over a 38spl "only" gun.
I didn't know they made a 38spl?
Either way though, I'd "always" pick a 357 over a 38spl "only" gun.
I have a S&W 64-5 4"bbl (mfg. April 1989) that is possibly my favorite revolver.
It's the one I'll take to the range if I want to have the best chance of targeting well at 50 feet. Nice weight, balance, and trigger, for me at least. For an OC utility revolver, I prefer a S&W K-frame in 3"bbl, though.
I'll get slagged for this, but I think Ruger DA revolvers are more like SA that will also shoot DA kinda OK.
Modern Ruger revolvers may be "built like a tank", or "tough as nails", but so is a 250 pound 55 year-old Bulgarian country-woman. "Tough" doesn't mean they're necessarily much fun.
It's the one I'll take to the range if I want to have the best chance of targeting well at 50 feet. Nice weight, balance, and trigger, for me at least. For an OC utility revolver, I prefer a S&W K-frame in 3"bbl, though.
I'll get slagged for this, but I think Ruger DA revolvers are more like SA that will also shoot DA kinda OK.
Modern Ruger revolvers may be "built like a tank", or "tough as nails", but so is a 250 pound 55 year-old Bulgarian country-woman. "Tough" doesn't mean they're necessarily much fun.
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SabbathWolf
member
I agree with you actually.
The trigger on my old S&W model 19 was slick as glass in double-action mode compared to my GP100.
I have never seen a GP-100 in 38 Spcl and I own one in .357 Mag.
Is this new or something? Personally since I have no first hand experience about the S&W,
I would rather offer my input to the Ruger.
It's heavy and built like a tank. Eat's .38 Spcl with good accuracy and takes .357 Magnum ammo just as well. Mine is in SS and I believe to be a great firearm and will last a very long time. Its DA is heavy and don't like that much about it. As for the SA, It is a bit touchy on mine. Right now I am using it for target/plinking with .38 Spcl sometimes. I wouldn't think twice about using this for CCW or HD.
Just my $0.02
Is this new or something? Personally since I have no first hand experience about the S&W,
I would rather offer my input to the Ruger.
It's heavy and built like a tank. Eat's .38 Spcl with good accuracy and takes .357 Magnum ammo just as well. Mine is in SS and I believe to be a great firearm and will last a very long time. Its DA is heavy and don't like that much about it. As for the SA, It is a bit touchy on mine. Right now I am using it for target/plinking with .38 Spcl sometimes. I wouldn't think twice about using this for CCW or HD.
Just my $0.02
That's an awful lot of money for a 64. I like the trigger better on the S&W but not at that price. The 64 will be more trim and point well, while the weight of the GP will soak up a little more recoil. Both are great but the value based on those prices goes to the GP in my eyes.
Alternatively, you could pick up a 64 for $280 from J&G sales
http://www.jgsales.com/handguns-c-16_211_431.html
Alternatively, you could pick up a 64 for $280 from J&G sales
http://www.jgsales.com/handguns-c-16_211_431.html
If you're an enthusiast you'll likely end up owning both at some point. Right now the Ruger appears to be the better deal, and down the road you'll likely find a better deal on a S&W K-frame. I've shot that .38 only blued GP and really liked it. I believe it has (this one did) a fixed rear notch, you may or may not care about that.
jad0110
Member
Of these two specific choices, I'd have to pass on both.
The GP is a big, barrel heavy beast that really doesn't make much sense as a .38 only gun. It's just way overkill for the purpose, like buying a 3/4 ton diesel soley for the purpose of pulling a jet ski.
Keep in mind that .357s can shoot .38s as well. I'll add that $450 for a .38 GP100 isn't all that great of a deal. I can find used .357 GPs in my area for $425.
As for the 64, it is way, way, way overpriced IMO. Well into rip off territory. You can get a 4" S&W Model 65 (same gun in .357) for about that price, or even $75 less.
As for the bobbed hammer, it might be cheaper to order from J&G, pay the FFL transfer fee and shipping, then have a good local gunsmith drop in a new hammer (and possibly a trigger) to make the gun DA and SA capable (might check into the cost of that option).
The GP is a big, barrel heavy beast that really doesn't make much sense as a .38 only gun. It's just way overkill for the purpose, like buying a 3/4 ton diesel soley for the purpose of pulling a jet ski.
Keep in mind that .357s can shoot .38s as well. I'll add that $450 for a .38 GP100 isn't all that great of a deal. I can find used .357 GPs in my area for $425.
As for the 64, it is way, way, way overpriced IMO. Well into rip off territory. You can get a 4" S&W Model 65 (same gun in .357) for about that price, or even $75 less.
As for the bobbed hammer, it might be cheaper to order from J&G, pay the FFL transfer fee and shipping, then have a good local gunsmith drop in a new hammer (and possibly a trigger) to make the gun DA and SA capable (might check into the cost of that option).
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Do you every shoot .357 in the .357?
Do you own any .357?
Will you own any .357?
I would get a smaller and lighter gun if it was only going to fire .38spl.
If you are stuck just between those two...whatever is cheapest is what I would get, because I wouldn't want to invest more than I absolutely had to.
Do you own any .357?
Will you own any .357?
I would get a smaller and lighter gun if it was only going to fire .38spl.
If you are stuck just between those two...whatever is cheapest is what I would get, because I wouldn't want to invest more than I absolutely had to.
That diesel wouldn't feel the jet-ski like a GP won't feel a 158gr bullet leaving at 700fps. That why some people like it, and the 686, for using .38spl in competitive shooting. My 686 bucks a hair but is right back on target very quickly. I agree with your other points though. Ps Southland Guns on Gunsamerica has that GP new for $385.
SabbathWolf
member
Personally I think you are making a mistake.
If you want a 38spl for range and HD, that's fine by me.
"But,".......I'd still never buy a 38spl "only" gun, when I can get a 357mag that still fires 38spl as well.
I see zero point in limiting yourself like that.
It just makes no sense to me.
A 357 is much more versatile should you change your mind down the road and want to fire 357 as well.
But...it's your call I guess.
SabbathWolf
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SabbathWolf
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sixgunner455
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I love the .38 Special, especially in a Kframe. .38s are fun to shoot in a GP100, but I'd get a 64. But - I wouldn't spend that much for one. Nearly perfect? About 300-350. Worn a bit? 250-300. A Kframe .357 in really good shape would go for about $500.
I'm thinking about that J&G Sales current accumulation of model 64s. Very seriously.
That said, I have a model 13-3, 3", .357, and a 1930 M&P, .38 Special. I don't really need another Kframe. But I love them, and those are some darn decent prices. I'd rather get another Kframe than one of those little plastic .380 pistols, or just about any other "modern" gun.
IIRC, most of the .38 only Rugers were for contracts that required .38 Special chambered revolvers. I've heard of people having them reamed for .357, since they believe that they are made and heat-treated the same as the regular GP100.
I'm thinking about that J&G Sales current accumulation of model 64s. Very seriously.
That said, I have a model 13-3, 3", .357, and a 1930 M&P, .38 Special. I don't really need another Kframe. But I love them, and those are some darn decent prices. I'd rather get another Kframe than one of those little plastic .380 pistols, or just about any other "modern" gun.
IIRC, most of the .38 only Rugers were for contracts that required .38 Special chambered revolvers. I've heard of people having them reamed for .357, since they believe that they are made and heat-treated the same as the regular GP100.
RON in PA
Member
I have both revolvers and think the Smith 64 is a nicer gun to shoot due to a better trigger pull and more comfortable trigger feel.
The price on the 64 you quoted is high.
The 38 special chambered GP100s were intended for police orders and I bought mine to have an odd ball version of that revolver.
I know the usual recommendation is to buy a .357 and shoot 38s in it rather than a 38 special only revolver. I don't agree, unless you know that you will want to shoot .357 at times don't be turned off by the 38s, they are all you need for almost 100% of your shooting.
The price on the 64 you quoted is high.
The 38 special chambered GP100s were intended for police orders and I bought mine to have an odd ball version of that revolver.
I know the usual recommendation is to buy a .357 and shoot 38s in it rather than a 38 special only revolver. I don't agree, unless you know that you will want to shoot .357 at times don't be turned off by the 38s, they are all you need for almost 100% of your shooting.
jad0110
Member
Buying a .38 only gun makes perfect sense if:
1. You have no plans to ever shoot .357s with that particular gun, and ...
2. There is a decent cost savings over an equivalent gun in .357 Magnum
In the OPs case, the two specific guns he is looking at don't meet the test at #2 (this all being my own opinion) because you can buy a used GP in .357 for about the same money and you can probably get a 4" S&W K Frame in .357 for less than the .38 64 he is looking at (which as mentioned before, is priced at least $200 too high). .38 K Frames in good shape can usually be found for under $375; under $300 if you are patient.
For a .38 only gun to be used for range fun and home protection, something like this 5" pre Model 10 M&P (with hammer block) is pretty ideal. Cost me $230 a couple of years ago, and shoots like a dream.
Smiths are typically nicer than Rugers(asthetics, trigger pull, etc.). Rugers are typically stronger than smiths(only matters if you are pushing the limits of the cartriges).
There may be an exception to the rule, but in general that's the way it is.
There may be an exception to the rule, but in general that's the way it is.
Jim NE
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I'd go with the 64 if the price wasn't so high; about 75-100 high in my opinion. I bought a GREAT lock 64 in great shape for $318. Don't overlook the USED lock models, as they're very affordable since they aren't sought out. Mine is one of my best shooting .38's.
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