Ok Bergmen, let me clarify, because what you wrote is very very important:
1-You load the cylinder pointing the weapon downrange.
2-You close the cylinder.
3-Then, you rotate the cylinder until it seats. Is that what you mean?
4-Aim, squeeze the trigger.
Now this is what I don't understand: If the cylinder is fully seated and the trigger is squeezed, the hammer should fall onto the primer of the cartridge which should be fully seated in battery.
Thus by indexing (which I think you mean making sure the cylinder is seated manually) and keeping the weapon upright and steady upon squeezing the trigger should avoid the problem you just stated.
I think this is critical for anyone reading this and any comments are welcome.
Okay, let me see if I can explain this better (I probably didn't explain it very well above).
Start with the revolver unloaded, cylinder closed and cylinder indexed properly (cylinder latch engaged and cylinder locked in battery).
Start the DA pull
just enough to retract the cylinder latch, freeing the cylinder to rotate.
While continuing to slowly pull the trigger rearward, rotate the cylinder until it is just past the next chamber that would align if allowed to go into battery naturally.
Continue the DA pull, the pawl will not engage the cylinder, the cylinder will stay where it is and the hammer will fall with the cylinder out of time.
If you want, I'll make a video of what I'm doing and it will be crystal clear. This is
really easy to induce, I worry about it all the time and double check cylinder "in battery" state constantly.
In addition to what I am describing here, I had a very scary issue with my .357 Magnum Blackhawk. The cylinder latch is pushed into position by a small coil spring pushing a small rounded head hollow pin upward on the cylinder latch. On my particular revolver, the hollow pin was sticking in the bore and not allowing the spring to push it upward to engage the cylinder latch. I noticed this during a normal practice session when I cocked the gun and the cylinder kept rotating a bit out of battery. Had I fired, it would have been a few degrees out of time and the gun could very well have blown up. Cold sweat time.
I confirmed what was going on, could see the cylinder latch not being pushed upward and stopped the session. When I got home, I disassembled and found a rough bore where the hollow pin was sticking. I polished it with a cut-down Q-tip and some Semi-Chrome polish, cleaned it up, lubricated it and tested it. It worked fine for the rest of the time I owned the gun.
As I said, I can make a video of the LCR timing issue (also, like I mentioned above, my 442 does the exact same thing). I can easily induce this on any of my single actions also. The drill is different with the SA revolvers, one has to draw the hammer back slowly while rotating the cylinder in the same manner as the DA above.
Give it a try and with a bit of practice you will see exactly what I mean. It might shock you a bit.
Dan