This what I've done.
Buy this trigger. (the blemished model is a great deal. I've done it.)
https://www.volquartsen.com/vc//pages/public/ListItems.jsp?id=21 I wonder why people buy from Volquartsen resellers when VQ sells online.???
Then drill the plunger hole just one size larger to use the factory plunger. This is not centered, so make sure you don't get too thin on one side. Best to be done in a drill press. You've already done what you can to the factory sear and hammer notch. Taking too much off the hammer notch will lead to double fires. The Volquartsen trigger has an ever so slightly changed movement/ratio that you'll notice a difference in creap just insalling it.
You could get ahold of a factory Target model trigger that has a set screw. But it's not adjustable without disassembling the top of the pistol.
To lighten things up, You can take 1 1/2 coils off of the trigger spring, but it's best to replace all the springs with the Trapper version... RU-12
http://www.apwcogan.com/trapper_spring_kits.htm
There's three springs in the kit. Main, Sear and Trigger. Keep using the factory sear spring at first. If you do the rest here, then you probably won't want to change that spring out.
The main spring is a Bear to remove. Don't let it fly!!! Actually it's easy to remove, just difficult to put the factory one back in. There's a jig available, but I've been able to do it with patience.
Polish the Disconnector on the right side. (don't bend it. It's fragile and only available from Ruger) Polish it to a mirror. Both that and the inside face of the pistol frame that it slides on. Polish both sides of the hammer. Don't take metal off, just polish. I've polished my bolt too. Don't touch the extractor. The firing pin is such a loose fit, most of the time you don't need to polish them, but with the lighter main spring you might want to. There's always a titanium pin replacement too.
Changing all springs, installing the Volquartsen trigger with over-travel set screw will provide you with a trigger that has minimal creep felt and will let off at just over 2 pounds. There's another mod for a pre-travel/creep set screw set in the forward high section of the trigger guard. I've done it to three pistols with success. It's best to drill the frame/trigger guard with a cobalt drill bit. The Clark trigger doesn't have a flat face so this mod is not recommended for use with that trigger.
If you don't want the thin wide trigger shoe of the Volquartsen, there's also a trigger from Clark. Unfortunately, the two that I've installed definately needed custom fitting. The difference in the Clark or the Vol is that the Clark will be more like a 1911 long, the Vol being a 1911 short trigger.
I'm no gun smith. So approach these steps with caution just as you would reading over someone's reloading data. Not finding anyone locally that would work on my MK II's, I succomed to figuring this out on my own through trial and error. (not many errors) Yes, the easiest thing to do is install the complete Volquartsen kit. But the Trapper springs and other mods are quite a bit more cost effective for the results in the end.
The aformentioned mods to my Government Target Model Mark II allowed me to fire two 98's and a 99 in Bullseye
slow fire this winter. (Hey, that was a good day. Don't ask about my normal scores. I fault myself. Not the pistol) These modifications are worth it though. And you can retain the factory parts if you ever want to sell it unmodified.
I suggest the factory target grips or the Hogue finger groove grips. The Volquartsen Volthane is also very nice.
-Steve