Ruger SP101 2.25 inch or 3 inch. Velocity Energy Difference, Would like advice please

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kashton

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I have no idea and I can't find a decent answer anywhere by my own research so here it goes:

This is for concealed carry. I like the .357 magnum load for self-defense, and the SP101 looks pretty darn nice.

I am purchasing a Ruger revolver, either their SP101 or their GP100 revolver. To sum it all up: 2.25" or 3" and SP101 or GP100? I've always been attracted to the SP101. It is a pretty powerful gun for it's size, and at least it looks tough. I would like some more knowledge about these two revolvers so I can make the best choice possible when I decide which one to purchase.

1. I can conceal the 3 inch barrel fine, it won't make much of a difference. Which barrel length looks better to you aesthetically?
2. What grips would be best for concealed carry while taking into account some kind of comfort level. The stock black hard rubber grips are pretty cool but are there better ones out there? How are the CT grips for these guns?

My main question is: Will the 3 inch barrel length on the Ruger SP101 deliver a fair increase in muzzle velocity, kinetic energy, and total momentum (kg*m.s) when compared with the 2.25 inch model?

How much velocity/energy are we talking about? Is it significant?

What about the GP-100 3 inch. If I can conceal the 3 inch SP101 (which I know I can in my Smartcarry holster), then would the GP100 3" be a better choice? They look like the same revolver and the Ruger website says absolutely nothing about them. Their website is not descriptive at all.

Which one looks cooler to you ;) ? and with what upgrades / add-ons / modifications / grips / etc. would you suggest?

Thank you for your time! It is Much Appreciated!

First, a Ruger SP101 3 inch barrel. It is is a pretty badass gun, looks sweet too. It has a tough, rugged feel to it when I hold it and when I had a chance to shoot the 2 inch it was a blast. I just can't decide between the two barrel lengths and want some opinions. I don't know if the increase in velocity and energy of the 3 inch is significant or not. Anyways, here are the pictures I could find so it will be easier to compare the two:

Ruger 3 Inch SP101 357 Magnum revolver:

Ruger_SP101_3inch.gif
Ruger_SP101_3inch2.gif
Ruger_SP101_3inch3withSWsidebyside.gif


Ruger 2.25 Inch SP101 357 Magnum revolver:

Ruger_SP101_3inch4.gif
Ruger_SP101_3inch6.gif
SP1011.gif
 
Given your purpose, mainly concealed carry, I would drop the GP-100 from consideration altogether. Since you haven't posted any GP pictures, it looks like you've done that anyway. The SP is compact, but not too compact.
If the gun is to be a shooter, then the GP 4" really really shines. But for CCH, why lug around a GP for one extra round?

If the extra 3/4 inch makes no difference to you for concealment, get it. Forget about the velocity loss - it's between 50 and 100 fps per inch depending on the gun and the load. That is not going to be the difference between doing the job and not doing the job. But the longer sight radius it gives you, now that is something worth having.

Also think about about hot 38 Spl +P loads or medium 357 loads designed for carry. Touching off a full strength 357 load in a confined area (car, room, etc.) is not something I would want to do without some serious ear protection. Considering things like blinding flash and tough follow-up shots, and given a reasonable level of stopping power (and to me 38 Spl +P has it), I think shootability and getting the shots where they need to go is what matters if someone needs to be stopped, not how much fire, blast and noise flares out the barrel.
 
Regarding grips, the stock SP101 grips are nice. The plastic side panels help smooth up the grips to reduce catching on concealment clothing and the rubber itself is not too sticky. For CCH, I wouldn't touch them - the stock grips are nice.

If you want an extra inch to get a full hand grip, there are the Hogues - but for concealed carry, some finds Hogue's rubber a little too sticky to keep from catching clothing.
 
I had a S&W Chief's Special w/3" barrell. Used it almost all the time for years for carry, travel, camping, etc. as it was light, accurate, and yet still very easy to carry. One problem with it was a lot of standard holsters for this model gun are designed for 2" barrell, so holster selection was more difficult. (one of my kids has the gun now)
To me the 3" barrell was a good compromise between accuracy and carryability. Velocity increase is probably only going to be around 60-70 fps. If concealability is your primary focus, you'll probably want the shorter barrell instead. Good luck.
 
One factor that has me favoring 3" barrel over shorter is the length of the ejector rod. With .357 Mag cartridge lengths, sometimes the stroke on the short barrels isn't enough to clear the spent brass from the cylinder with high reliability. If you get a case head stuck under the ejection star, it'll completely tie up a good gun for way too long....:eek:
 
IIRC the 3" SP and the 2 1/4" SP use the same ejector rod, so unlike most S&W revolvers, going to a 3" barrel doesn't get you full case ejection.

I've got the 2 1/4" DAO version. For strictly belt carry, I think the 3" is a better choice. However, if you ever might pocket carry the gun, the 2 1/4" is the way to go. I wanted a DAO anyway, and combined with the fact that I do pocket carry (though usually with a J-frame I wanted the option with the SP), I went with the 2 1/4".
 
One factor that has me favoring 3" barrel over shorter is the length of the ejector rod. With .357 Mag cartridge lengths, sometimes the stroke on the short barrels isn't enough to clear the spent brass from the cylinder with high reliability. If you get a case head stuck under the ejection star, it'll completely tie up a good gun for way too long....

The manual of arms for a combat reload is to wrap the left hand around the revolver, with the fingers of the left hand pressing on the cylinder, as the right thumb activates the cylinder latch.

As the right hand goes for the speed loader, the fingertips of the left hand push the cylinder fully open and the gun is rotated so the muzzle points up. The left thumb presses the ejector rod, so the cases fall down, away from the gun.

The left hand then rotates the gun to point the muzzle down (at about a 45 degree angle) while the right hand inserts the rounds and activates the speed loader.

The gun is then rotated to firing position, closing the cylinder while the right hand takes up the firing grip.

With a little practice, it's very fast and reliable.
 
I have a 3 inch SP101 and love the thing. I like the looks of the 3 inch more than the shorter one. I cant express enough how good this revolver is. With .38s it has very light recoil and with light or medium mags (havent tried heavy) the recoil is easily managed. The little gun is way more accurate than it has an business being too.

If your using it for concealed carry the stock grips will work just fine.
 
I really like how the short barreled SP101 conceals. Holsters are easy to find for that barrel length. The stock grips are just the right combination of soft but not too soft that clothing hangs up on them. FWIW - I'd recommend the short barrel for CCW.
 
I traded straight across for my 2.25" SP101. Buying new, I would have gone with the 3". Either one makes for an excellent CCW.

BB_RD3_03.jpg

rd
 
The 2 1/4 SP101 has a full length ejector rod. The shorter rod is a feature of S&W's not Ruger.

I have the 2 1/4 and really like as a CCW. I have a Mika pocket holster and it can be comfortably pocket carried in jeans. Yes it's a little heavy but after a couple of minutes you don't notice it. It really shines with OWB in a Galco Fletch.

I tried the Hogue grips and they do help with recoil and are great for the range but I didn't like them at all for carry. That extra length made concealment more difficult and they were too sticky so cover garments got hung up on them instead of moving naturally. I went back to factory grips which are darn near perfect for carry and recoil absorption.

The 3/4" difference in barrel length won't make enough difference to worry about in velocity. It does give a longer sight radius but unless you need extra accuracy for 25 yard shots it's not really needed for a CCW. If you want to carry OWB that extra barrel length will make it more difficult With the 2 1/4" barrel in the Fletch it is just covered in normal motion by a t-shirt. The extra 3/4" would show. Keeping the 3" concealed would require a holster with more cant or one that rides higher.

If this is for CCW go with the spurless hammer (DOA) model. With a little practice you'll be as accurate with it in DA as you are in SA, especially at self defense distances. The hammer snagging on the draw is a very real concern with a CCW. I bought the spurred hammer model because it's the one I could find the best deal on used. I had a local smith take the spur off, put serrations on top of the hammer for cocking, and leave the SA notch. I couldn't tell you the last time I cocked it to shoot it SA.

For a compact powerful CCW revolver the 2 1/4 spurless SP101 is a fantastic choice. For a compact woods gun to be carried open OWB the 3" spurred hammer is the one I'd go with. You really need one of each. :)

The SP101 is ridiculously easy to smooth up the action on. Thanks to the modular design it breaks down in about 15 seconds. From there about an hour with some 2200 grit sandpaper and a Dremel with some jeweler's rouge will give you a glass smooth trigger pull. Those tools also ensure that you cannot remove enough material anywhere to get in trouble. If you get a shooters pack of springs from Wolff (gunsprings.com) you can try some different weights to find the one that feels best to you. Once the action is smooth you may find that a medium spring is the one that feels best. When I pull the trigger on mine you can feel only two things on the pull, the cylinder latch releasing and then reengaging. That's it. No roughness, grit, just smooooothnesss.

If you register and post over to rugerforums.net (great group of people over there) you'll get access to a electronic book (IBOK) written by Iowegan, a retired gunsmith, that explains all of the functioning of the SP101 and step by step instructions on how to tune it. He tells you exactly where to polish. If he printed and sold these books for $20 they would be a great deal. Instead he's giving them away just for hanging out online with some nice people. Heck of a deal. I have pictures of mine posted over there along with a description of the extra tuning steps I took with Iowegan's guidance.

Ruger really nailed the design of the SP101. It's only 2oz heavier than a j frame S&W but it has a K frame sized forcing cone. It is a compact gun that can take a steady diet of .357 and keep coming back for more.

Good luck. Please let us know what you get. We'll need a range report and pics.
 
IMO the 2-1/4" SP101 looks quite a bit nicer...

But since you have no problem concealing the extra < 1" of barrel length, just get the 3" model. longer sight radius is nice, and a bit more velocity on any given load is a plus.
 
In theory the velocity diffrence will probably be abouy 50-75 fps.

In reality you may find the 2 1/4" may produce a higher velocity than a 3" (not that much difference).

If you reload properly,as described by Vern Humphrey, you won't get a round caught under the extractor star.
 
wuchak - man you rock! That was a great post, thank you. A question: I am trying to decide between two cartridges, the .40 S&W and the .357 Magnum, and I will buy the Glock 27 or the SP101 respectively based on my caliber decision. What makes you choose a revolver, and the 357 as your choice for SD even though the SP101 has 5 rounds vs a G27 that has 9+1?
 
You're welcome kashton. I went with the .357 for the reasons listed below, in no particular order. There's more but off the top of my head:

1) I had a 7 shot .357 I carried for hiking and backpacking so a CCW in the same caliber made sense
2) I was already setup to reload .357
3) I like dumping brass into a can instead of crawling on the ground to pick it up
4) I like being able to go from 148gr poof loads to 200 gr fire breathers in the same cylinder. No changing of springs needed.
5) I don't live or travel in dangerous areas so I don't feel the need for lots of firepower. If 5 shots of .357 plus 5 more in a speed strip won't get me out of the jam I'm in I doubt extra in the magazine would.
6) I prefer revolvers to semi's
7) I wanted my CCW to also be a good woods gun

The .40 is a great round and the Glock is a great gun. You've narrowed your selections to a couple of great ones.

The caliber wars have been done to death but IMHO if you go with 9mm +p, 9mm +p+, .40 S&W, .45 ACP, 38 Special +p, .357 Sig, or .357 with a premium defensive ammo they will get the job done just fine. It's really a decision of platform, size, weight, and capacity. Five rounds of .357 in a revolver works for me. It might not for you.

You need a revolver and a semi so the question is not which one will you get. It's which will you get first! :)
 
My experience has been that 3" guns are easier to shoot well than 2" ones, and 4" guns do better yet...Two of the ladies in my family have 3" SPs and like them very much.

I don't think velocity per se is all that big an issue as ammo and guns can vary considerably to change what you will actually get. Also there are other considerations of at least equal importance. I had a 3" M60 S&W .357 for a short time that chronographed Rem. 125 gr SJHPs out at 1350 fps. Amazing. However the DA was much poorer than the same gun in .38 Spl and we could not get it nearly as good. So I let the .357 go and stayed with the older, much smoother .38 Spl.

I don't have an SP of my own, but as it happens all of them that I run into are 3" guns for some reason. My needs for something in that category are already met, but I could certainly be comfortable with an SP.
 
The longer sight radius of the 3" and 4" guns is a real advantage, and I don't see any difference when it comes to concealability. It's true you can't carry the longer barreled guns in a pocket, but I use an IWB anyway.
 
.357 out of a short barrel is ridiculously loud with a big fireball shooting out of the barrel. I wouldn't plan on using your hearing for a few days if you ever shot it without ear protection.
.38 +p on the other hand is more within the realm of "yes I'd like to be able to hear after shooting it."
So, if you plan to shoot much .357 our of it (even at the range), I'd go with the longest barrel that works for your purposes. If carrying it is your focus, then the shorter barrels with .38 +p might work out better.
 
3" will give a little better sight spread, perhaps contributing to accuracy. (I shoot with a laser, so it's a little less important to me.)

3" will, perhaps, hug the body more with IWB carry due to the barrel holding the butt in by leverage.

2" barrel will conceal a little bit better with OWB , and such, of course.

The shorter barrel wiill be much better for pocket carry, of course. But I think that even the SP101 with short barrel is a little too big for consistent pants pocket carry.

Velocity loss is a NON issue IMO. With the proper choice of carry ammo it won't mean much at all. If you choose ammo that will penetrate at least the perscribed 12" or so and will mushroom properly at the speed of your particular barrels limitations and that you can shoot acurately - a little extra speed with a little extra energy to create a little larger temporary wound chanel is a NON consideration.
 
I get ~ 1230 fps with 158 gr bullets out of my 2.25" SP101.

That's about equal to a hot 4" 40 S&W.

Not too shabby for a 2.25" barrel.

I like the way the 2.25 fits in my jeans pockets.

It's not too heavy for me, though others seem to have some dislike of the 2.25" as a pocket gun.

Mike G.
 
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