Ruger Super Blackhawk issue... (part source?)

[dannewberry]

I picked up my third Super Blackhawk the other day. This one has been well used, and has a slight timing issue. If you slowly and carefully cock the hammer, it will reach sear engagement BEFORE the bolt drops into the cylinder. That of course means that it would shave lead if you fired the gun in that condition.

Cylinder end play is good... so the timing issue is the only thing.

The variation is only slight. I did remove the pawl (the hand) and peened it from a length (to the lower tooth) of .9530" to .9570", and the problem nearly went away... but if you try really hard, it'll still do it, on one or two of the chambers in particular.

I could remove the pawl again and peen it even longer, but I think .004" is enough of a stretch already (pun intended). Or not?

By the way, this Ruger steel is HARD, HARD, HARD. I've peened all kinds of Colt hands, and they stretch readily. They have to be a lot softer, I assume.

So I want a new pawl. I did order one from Ruger (only 5 bucks and 3.50 shipping), but it won't be here until mid April because of their inventory taking.

I would rater get a new pawl sooner... (I'm impatient).

Anybody know where I can get one quicker?

Thanks for any help,

Dan

 

[danjet500]

I would try here.

http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewforum.php?f=8

If they can't help, you'll have to wait. There is also a Ruger smithing section that may be of help.

 

[Kernel]

Brownells and Midway both stock Ruger internal parts.

 

[Old Fuff]

Brownells (www.brownells.com) also have Ruger parts - both those made by the company and also other after-market speciality ones.

And if you are in a hurry, they have overnight shipping.

Hint: Check and be sure abusive cocking hasn't caused the hole in the hammer the hand pin fits into to wear. You may find the hand is floating.

 

[dannewberry]

Thanks, all...

Old Fuff, I'll check that pivot hole in the hammer when I take her back apart. Thanks for that tip, I had not even thought of that.

I'll hopefully be able to get the revolver timing right with a new hand, even if that hole is a little enlarged. Or else I'll be buying a hammer.

I checked brownells, and it looks like the only pawl they're offering is the Power Custom 40 dollar one (the one that lets the cylinder spin both ways while you're loading... a nicety for sure, but not worth 40 bucks since I'm not an action shooter)...

Again, I appreciate all the good advice. Nice forum here.

Dan

 

[MCgunner]

I'd call Ruger about it. They might send you a free part shipping free. They did that for me when the mag catch spring in my P90 broke. It was in the mailbox in 3 days! They're rebuild that beast, too, if necessary.

 

[Kernel]

Do you want blue or stainless? $3.58 plus S&H. Both are in stock. Dealier price (which takes a FFL, C&R, or a little sweet talking the operator) is $2.86. Both are in stock.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/cid=.../ksubmit=y/Products/All/search=pawl_blackhawk

Brownells' search function can be frustrating, especially for the uninitiated. That alone, I suspect, supresses thier internet sales totals by 10 to 15% every year.

Free is good, too. Ruger is pretty good about that kind of stuff.

 

[dannewberry]

I did order a part from Ruger. It wasn't free, but it only cost 5 bucks plus 3.50 shipping.

I did just find the part on Midway's site, and have it on the way also. I should have it in 3 or 4 days... got some bullets too, while I was at it. The pawl that Midway sells is supposed to be a genuine Ruger part. And if I need a hammer... they have them for under 30 bucks, so that's not bad either.

I'll have an extra pawl when the Ruger part ships in a couple weeks, but with three of these revolvers, that'll be nice to have as a spare.

Thanks again to all.

Dan

 

[dannewberry]

Kernel,

I must have been typing while you were.

Thanks for that link. I need to learn to navigate these sites better...

Dan

 

[dannewberry]

update...

I got a new hand (pawl) from Midway today. Got 500 Oregon Trail 240 grain lead semi-wadcutters too...

I measured the new hand, length to the lower tooth. It was .980" from the lower, pivot swell of the hand.

The old hand was .953" when measured in the same area. I peened the old hand until I got it to .957", and figured that would be enough. It still wasn't, as the timing was still not right.

When I got the new hand, I thought at .980" was going to be way too long... I almost cut it to about .970" before it installed it, thinking to save myself some trouble.

I'm glad I didn't, as the .980" length worked perfectly when I put it in, and it did not even need any honing. The pivot hole in the hammer seemed good.

I was not expecting that a hand .025" longer to the lower tooth would actually allow the hammer to cock all the way. I thought I'd have to shorten it, at least a bit.

But it worked, as delivered.

Dan