former owner had a safety bar installed (transfer bar?) to make it safe for 6 rnds., now passed away, amen. Anyway kids not really looking for parts sent back from Ruger on conversion. Anybody know know what I'm talking about? better yet, anyone know what the parts are? perhaps I could find them on line if I knew what I was looking for. Wanted one of these all my adult life but could never afford one.
Ruger three screw .44 mag
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243winxb
Member
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=287715
The up grade is much safer.
I was shooting an old model 44 mag. Didnt do the stardard cylinder reload, cocking.
Firing pin hit off center on edge of prime. Cylinder was out of time, not locked up. Luck for me it didnt fire.
Old parts would need hand fitting, if not the original old parts.
The up grade is much safer.
I was shooting an old model 44 mag. Didnt do the stardard cylinder reload, cocking.
Firing pin hit off center on edge of prime. Cylinder was out of time, not locked up. Luck for me it didnt fire.
Old parts would need hand fitting, if not the original old parts.
Driftwood Johnson
Member
Howdy
Yes, I know exactly what you are talking about.
This is a Three Screw Flat Top 44 Mag Blackhawk. It shipped in 1958, before Ruger changed the design in the early 1970s. At that time, all Ruger revolvers were redesigned to include a Transfer Bar.
Yes, a converted Three Screw with a transfer bar is safer, but if you know not to lower the hammer on a live round in the chamber, in other words only load it with five rounds, the old Three Screws are just as safe a modern one with a Transfer Bar.
This is what my 44 Mag Three Screw looks like all torn down.
These are the lockwork parts of that revolver. At the very least you would need a hammer and trigger like this. I suspect you would probably also need a hand like this. I do not know if you would also need the the bolt or accompanying springs shown here, Ruger may have left them alone when they installed a Transfer Bar. I can tell you that the action of the converted Three Screws is no where near as smooth as the unconverted, original versions. Retrofitting a Transfer Bar into these was always a bit of a compromise. The later models, designed from the ground up with a Transfer Bar were better than the conversions.
For a comparison, here are the parts inside a modern New Model Blackhawk. Everything is completely different. The Transfer Bar is the vertical piece mounted to the trigger. None of these parts will work in an old Three Screw.
Good luck finding parts, I just checked at Numrich Gun Parts. The schematics they show for the old model Rugers are incorrect, they all show transfer bars.
P.S. If you look closely you will see there are three cocking notches on the old style hammer, no different than a Colt. "Safety cock", half cock, and full cock. Just like a Colt, NEVER TRUST THE "SAFETY COCK' NOTCH. Just like a Colt, whack the hammer hard enough, like dropping it on the hammer spur, with a live round under the hammer the sear will likely break off the hammer and the revolver will quite likely fire. That is why Ruger completely did away with this design in the early 1970s. They lost some expensive lawsuits when shooters who did not understand how to operate a traditional single action revolver dropped their revolvers and the revolvers fired. Again, NEVER TRUST THE HALF COCK NOTCH ON A RUGER THREE SCREW OR A COLT. Load one, skip one, load four more, bring the hammer to full cock and then lower it on an empty chamber.
Yes, I know exactly what you are talking about.
This is a Three Screw Flat Top 44 Mag Blackhawk. It shipped in 1958, before Ruger changed the design in the early 1970s. At that time, all Ruger revolvers were redesigned to include a Transfer Bar.
Yes, a converted Three Screw with a transfer bar is safer, but if you know not to lower the hammer on a live round in the chamber, in other words only load it with five rounds, the old Three Screws are just as safe a modern one with a Transfer Bar.
This is what my 44 Mag Three Screw looks like all torn down.
These are the lockwork parts of that revolver. At the very least you would need a hammer and trigger like this. I suspect you would probably also need a hand like this. I do not know if you would also need the the bolt or accompanying springs shown here, Ruger may have left them alone when they installed a Transfer Bar. I can tell you that the action of the converted Three Screws is no where near as smooth as the unconverted, original versions. Retrofitting a Transfer Bar into these was always a bit of a compromise. The later models, designed from the ground up with a Transfer Bar were better than the conversions.
For a comparison, here are the parts inside a modern New Model Blackhawk. Everything is completely different. The Transfer Bar is the vertical piece mounted to the trigger. None of these parts will work in an old Three Screw.
Good luck finding parts, I just checked at Numrich Gun Parts. The schematics they show for the old model Rugers are incorrect, they all show transfer bars.
P.S. If you look closely you will see there are three cocking notches on the old style hammer, no different than a Colt. "Safety cock", half cock, and full cock. Just like a Colt, NEVER TRUST THE "SAFETY COCK' NOTCH. Just like a Colt, whack the hammer hard enough, like dropping it on the hammer spur, with a live round under the hammer the sear will likely break off the hammer and the revolver will quite likely fire. That is why Ruger completely did away with this design in the early 1970s. They lost some expensive lawsuits when shooters who did not understand how to operate a traditional single action revolver dropped their revolvers and the revolvers fired. Again, NEVER TRUST THE HALF COCK NOTCH ON A RUGER THREE SCREW OR A COLT. Load one, skip one, load four more, bring the hammer to full cock and then lower it on an empty chamber.
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There's usually kits to be found on rugerforum.com with a WTB post in the classifieds section. IIRC the kit sells for under $100. If I was to get a three screw I'd convert it. If I die suddenly I don't want to have a firearm in my estate that requires knowledge of three screws and the empty chamber requirement. Sounds like the seller OP is interfacing with is clueless as my heirs would be. Safety first.....
Driftwood Johnson
Member
I have lots of revolvers that are no different than a Ruger Three Screw in that they should never be fully loaded with a live round under the hammer. When the time comes, my collection will go up for auction. It is already in our estate plan.The auction house knows all about not loading these revolvers with a live round under the hammer.
I have my late brothers three screw Super. Luckily, not converted. I've handled dozens of the converted Rugers. Uniformly horrible triggers. If a person doesn't understand the safe method of loading and carrying traditional single actions he should learn or abstain. I have a friend with a really ugly right calf because he didnt, back in 1969.
Pat Riot
Contributing Member
Sometimes you can find a original parts set in the classifieds of the Ruger Forum. You could advertise a "wanted to buy". and maybe turn up a set. Probably approaching $200. The only down side of the conversion is that the trigger has a bit more slack. That really was not a problem with me. The converted gun is a bit safer. More so for an inexperienced operator. But really accurate shooting that requires a superb trigger is not something I am capable of with a SA .44 mag anyway. Be nice to have the parts but I personally would just leave it converted even if I did have them. I will put it this way. If I could find the original parts I would keep them safe for the future. I would not buy parts to un-convert it. I would not be interested in selling it either way so that would not be a factor.
Parts could be in the box. Parts could be sold for the money. Parts are probably lying where he put them when he got the gun back. The kids probably do not care much one way or the other. You sorta have to be a Ruger lover to car.
Parts could be in the box. Parts could be sold for the money. Parts are probably lying where he put them when he got the gun back. The kids probably do not care much one way or the other. You sorta have to be a Ruger lover to car.
I used to collect older Ruger single-action revolvers---mostly Old Model Flattops in 357 and 44---still have a couple---all unmolested---shoot them all the time! It used to be, Ruger would return a plastic bag with the original parts when you sent the gun in to be converted, but apparently not any more. I managed gun stores for many years and people would give me the returned old style parts which I keep as spares for my original guns...
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
The parts are rather easily procured and installed. I would suggest posting a WTB on RugerForum.com, if you're already a member. If not, it's not easily joined, as it's outdated, run by ignorant tyrants and horribly maintained. RugerForum.net might be an easier outlet.
The transfer bar action is horrendous. I have several Old Models and the triggers all over around a crisp 2-3lb. I would never have one converted, unless I needed other work done and Ruger was the best option. Which it often is if you just want a factory refurb. I would remove the parts before shipping if I did that.
Having one converted for the sake of future owners who don't know better seems rather silly, especially considering all the Colt's, USFA's, Uberti's, Pietta's and other traditional single actions in my collection and on the market.
Typically these parts do not need fitting.
The transfer bar action is horrendous. I have several Old Models and the triggers all over around a crisp 2-3lb. I would never have one converted, unless I needed other work done and Ruger was the best option. Which it often is if you just want a factory refurb. I would remove the parts before shipping if I did that.
Having one converted for the sake of future owners who don't know better seems rather silly, especially considering all the Colt's, USFA's, Uberti's, Pietta's and other traditional single actions in my collection and on the market.
More precisely, the transfer bar ignition is safer for the ignorant. Safety is between the ears.
Typically these parts do not need fitting.
243winxb
Member
Or lazy. Plus many will not read any instructions. Available here https://ruger.com/dataProcess/serialHistory/manuals.php
Some members firearms collection are several hundred gun hoardes with values measured in several hundreds of thousands dollars. The hoarder's widow will take the hoard to a fancy auction house and realize the value with a cash payment after the sales.
Those of us of more modest gun collection funds will have a few tens of firearms that will be divided up amongst our heirs by individuals picking their favorite. I would hate for one of my nephews or their child getting a un-converted three screw without the correct knowledge about the empty chamber rule and getting injured or killed.
Expecting innocent heirs to know better or be labeled "lazy" isn't really thinking things through.
Once again, thanks folks. And yes 243winxb I took your advice and went to the site and read the instructions. I will download a copy for my library. I don't have the fluted cylinder so it must have been replaced also. You can rest assured it will be carried with only 5 rnd. and hammer resting on empty cylinder. As far as parts go I don't want to return it to original condition, just would have been nice to have for when I'm done with it as far as value. I load one skip one and load four. I always looked after loading to be sure. I don't think his relatives care about the parts just wanted money for what he left and easy to move.
Thanks Driftwood for the time, effort, and pictures. Thanks to all, got some good info here as usual. I do have other revolvers and carry them with hammer on empty chamber. I just thought with the transfer bar it was safe to load 6. WRONG! So 5 it is.
Thanks Driftwood for the time, effort, and pictures. Thanks to all, got some good info here as usual. I do have other revolvers and carry them with hammer on empty chamber. I just thought with the transfer bar it was safe to load 6. WRONG! So 5 it is.
Ugly Sauce
Member
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A friend of mine just told me a story about a friend of his, who took a spill down a rocky slope with an old model, .44mag, all six loaded, and it went off and blew a big hole in his foot. Bone fragments everywhere he said.
I have trouble feeling sorry for those who do not understand the sidearm they are carrying, or the logic of converting a nice old revolver to make it safer for some future fool. Should I convert my antique Harley to a hand clutch/foot shifter and electric start because some fool might kill him or herself on it? Or bust their leg trying to kick it over? What about my '48 Dodge? Dang, it's got drum brakes and no air bags! Or ABS. What if they don't know it don't have ABS??? I have an old VW bug too. Man, what if someone gets in an accident in that thing? Like the Dodge, drum brakes and NO ABS! Gas tank sits right in front of you, at about mid-torso level. About two feet away. What if they don't know they are sitting right behind the gas tank, or that the car has no structural strength? Any SUV or most any other car would crush it like a...wait for it...bug! Or no air bags? Yes, what you don't know, can kill you.
And sharp knives. What if we die, and our knives are sharp, and one of our heirs cuts their selves? Better convert our sharp knives to dull ones.
Sure it would be harder to cut something...but safety first.
I don't think we can save our heirs, future generations, or others from their own stupidity. Sometimes you have to let natural selection run it's course.
Anyhow, I had a really nice 4" old model .44 mag, very nice action, beautiful trigger pull that had been "armaloyed", which I believe was just a hard chrome. Looked really nice. But one day the front sight popped off, and I thought I'd be pretty smart, send it in for the conversion, and get the front sight put on right for free.
So it arrives, back from Ruger, open the box, and WHAT? Front sight is in a little plastic bag, with a note that says: "won't install sight/non-original finish on gun". Then I cock the hammer and...dang...worst action I've ever felt. Like a box of rocks. And a horrible heavy trigger pull.
I was so disgusted, never put the original parts back in, just traded it off. But I miss it. Smallest, lightest .44mag I've ever owned. I did silver solder the front sight back on myself, no problem. If only I had done that in the first place.
I may still have the original parts for that gun, PM me if interested.
I have trouble feeling sorry for those who do not understand the sidearm they are carrying, or the logic of converting a nice old revolver to make it safer for some future fool. Should I convert my antique Harley to a hand clutch/foot shifter and electric start because some fool might kill him or herself on it? Or bust their leg trying to kick it over? What about my '48 Dodge? Dang, it's got drum brakes and no air bags! Or ABS. What if they don't know it don't have ABS??? I have an old VW bug too. Man, what if someone gets in an accident in that thing? Like the Dodge, drum brakes and NO ABS! Gas tank sits right in front of you, at about mid-torso level. About two feet away. What if they don't know they are sitting right behind the gas tank, or that the car has no structural strength? Any SUV or most any other car would crush it like a...wait for it...bug! Or no air bags? Yes, what you don't know, can kill you.
And sharp knives. What if we die, and our knives are sharp, and one of our heirs cuts their selves? Better convert our sharp knives to dull ones.
Sure it would be harder to cut something...but safety first.I don't think we can save our heirs, future generations, or others from their own stupidity. Sometimes you have to let natural selection run it's course.
Anyhow, I had a really nice 4" old model .44 mag, very nice action, beautiful trigger pull that had been "armaloyed", which I believe was just a hard chrome. Looked really nice. But one day the front sight popped off, and I thought I'd be pretty smart, send it in for the conversion, and get the front sight put on right for free.
So it arrives, back from Ruger, open the box, and WHAT? Front sight is in a little plastic bag, with a note that says: "won't install sight/non-original finish on gun". Then I cock the hammer and...dang...worst action I've ever felt. Like a box of rocks. And a horrible heavy trigger pull.
I was so disgusted, never put the original parts back in, just traded it off. But I miss it. Smallest, lightest .44mag I've ever owned. I did silver solder the front sight back on myself, no problem. If only I had done that in the first place.
I may still have the original parts for that gun, PM me if interested.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
So what, you don't buy Colt's, USFA's or other traditional guns because your heirs might not know how to operate them??? What about all those traditional leverguns with no external safety? Why is it too much to expect someone who picks up a firearm to know how to use it?
Anchorite
Member
Amen.
SundownRider
Member
Guess I won’t try to sell this here then.
Ugly Sauce
Member
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No don't sell it...shoot it! I bought my first "real" pistol, (had a .38 before that) when the .44mag new model first came out. That pistol went with me everywhere, even carried it back packing with me for many years. I was strong in them days. Shot a deer with it, and quite a few coyotes. Many fond memories made and adventures had with that pistol. Best move I made was having the barrel shortened to 5.75 inches, really made a difference on how it carries. No more "pogo-stick" every time I sat down. I think it looks better too, even though the 7.5" barrel is most classic.
I'd surely love to have an old model like that, but me and the new model are still wandering the woods sometimes. I plan to carry it, and a .22 rifle with me this next hunting season, when just bear, cougar, and grouse are open. I also had it re-blued at the same time I had the barrel done, and it's almost as pretty as the pistol above.
I'd surely love to have an old model like that, but me and the new model are still wandering the woods sometimes. I plan to carry it, and a .22 rifle with me this next hunting season, when just bear, cougar, and grouse are open. I also had it re-blued at the same time I had the barrel done, and it's almost as pretty as the pistol above.
Yeah, Ugly Sauce. My .44 looks like SundownRiders except mine was converted. Has non fluted cyl. 7 1/2 barrel. dont know if your parts would fit. My ser. # is 184 - - . If they would I would be interested just to have them with the gun. Also does anyone know if the new mod. .44 cyl Non fluted cyl would fit my converted revolver? Trying to get an answer out of ruger. Reason I want another cylinder is so I can fire .44 spec. Was told to many would mess up seating for longer magnum cases. I like to shoot less power to get used to a gun. I believe starting with a .22 then working your way up through the different calibers is the best way to teach yourself. Hot44
Ugly Sauce
Member
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I never knew they put the non-fluted cylinders on the old models.
I'll tell you a story about shooting Specials in the magnum cylinder. When I first got my New Model I shot a box of .44mag through it. I still have that box, Speer "Lawman" ammo. But then, since I got paid every two weeks, and a really good gun store was between the bank and home, (way before direct deposit) I would stop and buy 100 rounds of the old Remington, 246 grain .44 specials, and shoot them up during the next two weeks. Lived on a farm. Then do it again. I did that for years, and I estimate I fired around 5,000 rounds of .44 special in that gun. I got to be a pretty good shot. I also started reloading, and fired a "normal" amount of full power, hot .44magnum. It never had any effect on chambering the longer cases. Shoot as many .44special as you want. Just clean the gun after shooting.
I'll tell you a story about shooting Specials in the magnum cylinder. When I first got my New Model I shot a box of .44mag through it. I still have that box, Speer "Lawman" ammo. But then, since I got paid every two weeks, and a really good gun store was between the bank and home, (way before direct deposit) I would stop and buy 100 rounds of the old Remington, 246 grain .44 specials, and shoot them up during the next two weeks. Lived on a farm. Then do it again. I did that for years, and I estimate I fired around 5,000 rounds of .44 special in that gun. I got to be a pretty good shot. I also started reloading, and fired a "normal" amount of full power, hot .44magnum. It never had any effect on chambering the longer cases. Shoot as many .44special as you want. Just clean the gun after shooting.
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