Rust rust rust
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Sam Adams
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What you always want is multiple layers of protection. Depending on just one layer - no matter how good - won't work for the long term or under really severe conditions.
As an example, in a gun safe, put a coat of some good corrosion inhibitor like CorrosionX, Eezox, RIG, Boeshield, Sheath, whatever. Even a good CLP is good enough - because it isn't the only protection. You may want to use a dry corrosion inhibitor in some circumstances. Layer 2 could be a VCI bag, like these: http://www.polygunbag.com/gunbags.html, and layer three could be having a Golden Rod in the safe. Instead of the VCI bag, you could get gun-wrap paper. I also use the Bore-Stores storage bags, which are impregnated with silicon and also protect against the guns knocking into each other or falling because of their thickness.
For smaller items like magazines, tools or reloading dies, the first 2 layers would be the same, but then put the items in a sealed plastic box of some type (which protects from outside moisture coming in, and concentrates the VCI material in a small space) and toss in some dessicants or some VCI tabs (available at Brownell's) before closing the top.
Using multiple layers like this will give you YEARS of protection.
As an example, in a gun safe, put a coat of some good corrosion inhibitor like CorrosionX, Eezox, RIG, Boeshield, Sheath, whatever. Even a good CLP is good enough - because it isn't the only protection. You may want to use a dry corrosion inhibitor in some circumstances. Layer 2 could be a VCI bag, like these: http://www.polygunbag.com/gunbags.html, and layer three could be having a Golden Rod in the safe. Instead of the VCI bag, you could get gun-wrap paper. I also use the Bore-Stores storage bags, which are impregnated with silicon and also protect against the guns knocking into each other or falling because of their thickness.
For smaller items like magazines, tools or reloading dies, the first 2 layers would be the same, but then put the items in a sealed plastic box of some type (which protects from outside moisture coming in, and concentrates the VCI material in a small space) and toss in some dessicants or some VCI tabs (available at Brownell's) before closing the top.
Using multiple layers like this will give you YEARS of protection.
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ECVMSparky
member
HOly COW, where do you begin?
There are like a million products mentioned here............
ANy one of them will prob work better than CLP.
The BIGGEST problem I have is forgetting to wipe down where i have handled them and then putting them away, take care of that problem, and you're ahead of the game.
There are like a million products mentioned here............
ANy one of them will prob work better than CLP.
The BIGGEST problem I have is forgetting to wipe down where i have handled them and then putting them away, take care of that problem, and you're ahead of the game.
+1
People have different pH levels. If you're causing rust just by touching the firearms, chances are you've got a very acidic body pH. Acidic body pH is common in fat people who sweat a lot and others who do not eat well. If you eat a lot of "junk food", drink a lot of coffee, eat more grains than greens and veggies (not sure where meats come into that equation), etc. you're likely to have an overly acidic pH.
I've recently noticed I have the same problem. I've been using Breakfree CLP for the last couple years, and while it cleans and lubes well, it protects very, very poorly (it seems to evaporate off the surface quite quickly, for one thing). I just picked up some Corrosion X, which I'm told works quite well.
In a pitch, I've also found that cheap ol' "3 in 1 oil" works just as well for lubrication (at least when it's not cold) and stays on the gun metal longer (ie it protects better than CLP).
MKEITH
Member
Shooters Choice Rust Inhibiter Always Works For Me,and It Smells Good Too.
+1 on the skin issue. The fact that touching a rifle brings rust is the evidence. Use gloves to touch the guns. Along with the other good suggestions for rust prevention products, don't forget the basic silicone cloth. A good one will put a very good coating of protection on your guns.
But gloves are a must for you.
Springmom
But gloves are a must for you.
Springmom
You'll hear from most of us that really care about this issue...
But speaking from the heart, my direct experience has been mostly with Eezox (excellent - but quite aromatic) and most recently with CorrosionX for Guns as well as the regular red can aerosol from the same company.
I've used CorrosionX in it's various other formulations with a significant rust area on my automobile. The HD & aircraft grade editions of CorrosionX have absolutely stopped the run away rust in it's tracks. No cleaning - no surface preparation - just a good hosing on an exposed area this past autumn and the treated area just laughed in the face of Michigan road salts and 24x7 outdoor exposure (no garage) over the past winter & spring.
Either one is GREAT and also provide lubricity for arms yanked from storage and placed into immediate service.
Take your pick of these in conjunction with FP-10 where required for the absolute essentials in arms maintenance.
But speaking from the heart, my direct experience has been mostly with Eezox (excellent - but quite aromatic) and most recently with CorrosionX for Guns as well as the regular red can aerosol from the same company.
I've used CorrosionX in it's various other formulations with a significant rust area on my automobile. The HD & aircraft grade editions of CorrosionX have absolutely stopped the run away rust in it's tracks. No cleaning - no surface preparation - just a good hosing on an exposed area this past autumn and the treated area just laughed in the face of Michigan road salts and 24x7 outdoor exposure (no garage) over the past winter & spring.
Either one is GREAT and also provide lubricity for arms yanked from storage and placed into immediate service.
Take your pick of these in conjunction with FP-10 where required for the absolute essentials in arms maintenance.
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Ok, cheap and perfect for longterm storage. I came up with this foolproof method while liveing in Southeast Texas several years ago. I don't get along with rust of anykind, let alone on my babies (guns). When I first moved to Texas, 1st morning in fact, I woke up to a fine coating of surface rust on my sweetheart Winchester 9422. I came from Colorado and we didn't have this humidity problem. I spent the next several months over oiling my guns and constantly watching them for "rust". I tried different products, but each one had it's faults.
Then one evening I was sitting on the living room floor with an oil sopped gun in one hand and an oil can in the other. I was staring out the window at my brothers car in a daydream, well evening dream, and all of a sudden, everything popped into place. Could it be this simple? Yep!
I took all of the oil off of my guns exterior and polished it with autowax, the mew modern wipe on-wipe off kind. Nu-tone, 2000 washes, etc. I polised the metal, the boar, the stock, everything. Ahhhhh, no more rust, none. I stored guns for months and when I reached in for one it was clean and no rust.
So there you have it. I hold no patents for my idea and I am happy to pass it along. Enjoy!
Then one evening I was sitting on the living room floor with an oil sopped gun in one hand and an oil can in the other. I was staring out the window at my brothers car in a daydream, well evening dream, and all of a sudden, everything popped into place. Could it be this simple? Yep!
I took all of the oil off of my guns exterior and polished it with autowax, the mew modern wipe on-wipe off kind. Nu-tone, 2000 washes, etc. I polised the metal, the boar, the stock, everything. Ahhhhh, no more rust, none. I stored guns for months and when I reached in for one it was clean and no rust.
So there you have it. I hold no patents for my idea and I am happy to pass it along. Enjoy!
hemiram
Member
Rust
There are people who "rust" stuff. I have a friend who has this problem. He has some siort of acid that rusts anything steel. Even stainless will and does rust badly. His acid also eats the lettering off cellphones, remote controls and anything else he touches repeatedly. Even when we were kids, his fingerprints ate the paint off his lunchbox, and pens and pencils even lost paint where he touched them.
After damaging several new handguns and shotguns he bought over the years, he now buys only rough looking guns and just lets them rust away, even taking pills to cut down the acidity didn't help. Just handling the gloves he has tried in the past causes them to rust the guns when the areas of the gloves he touched to put them on touches the gun! It's not as bad as a direct "hit", but it's close. I used to have a BB gun with his thumbprint rusted into the top of it from him picking it up once. I thought I did it, but the print wasn't mine, then I found out about his problem.
The only problem he has had health wise from the acid is a couple of kidney stones over the years.
There are people who "rust" stuff. I have a friend who has this problem. He has some siort of acid that rusts anything steel. Even stainless will and does rust badly. His acid also eats the lettering off cellphones, remote controls and anything else he touches repeatedly. Even when we were kids, his fingerprints ate the paint off his lunchbox, and pens and pencils even lost paint where he touched them.
After damaging several new handguns and shotguns he bought over the years, he now buys only rough looking guns and just lets them rust away, even taking pills to cut down the acidity didn't help. Just handling the gloves he has tried in the past causes them to rust the guns when the areas of the gloves he touched to put them on touches the gun! It's not as bad as a direct "hit", but it's close. I used to have a BB gun with his thumbprint rusted into the top of it from him picking it up once. I thought I did it, but the print wasn't mine, then I found out about his problem.
The only problem he has had health wise from the acid is a couple of kidney stones over the years.
tasco 74
Member
i always try to wash my hands good with a grease fighting soap before i handle my blued steel beauties... i keep a good antibacterial dish soap in my liquid hand soap pump bottle on my bathroom sink.... i don't like the feeling of greasy hands anyhow and it does keep the salts and corrosives off your skin...... i use powerlube to keep my presses and other steel reloading tools rust free in my basement.......... and like they said a good silicone gun cloth goes a long way to help the problem......... i also like to use remoil wiped on in a film with a clean cloth................
Mak Maven
Member
+1 on Eezox
I doesn't get much hotter and more humid then Fl.
Best I've ever used.
Read the reviews and draw your own conclusion.
I doesn't get much hotter and more humid then Fl.
Best I've ever used.
Read the reviews and draw your own conclusion.
stevelyn
Member
I live in a marine climate and have had excellent luck with the Bullfrog products. Even our cruiser shotguns that undergo constant temperature and humidity changes, blowing rain and occassional salt spray haven't rusted with regular (monthly) maintenance.
A VpCI emitter tossed in your safe along with your regular maintenance will probably solve your rust issue.
http://www.rustbloc.com
A VpCI emitter tossed in your safe along with your regular maintenance will probably solve your rust issue.
http://www.rustbloc.com
dhoomonyou
Member
Eezox.
Sam Adams
Member
Did your friend star in some movies with Sigourney Weaver?
CLP is a poor rust proofer as I learned the hard way. I suggest trying CorrosionX. It neutralizes fingerprints for one thing. I have acid hands and rust anything I handle. CorrosionX is a Godsend there. It's also the most effective rust proofer I've found. I always have half a dozen or so guns in various stages of disassembly by my workbench. Last summer, I got too busy to work on guns and didn't go in the shop for a couple weeks. During that time we had a leak develop in the shop and all of the guns that were protected with CLP rusted badly, along with most of my tools. The guns that had been wiped with CorrosionX looked as good as the day they rolled out of the factory. I use it on my pocket knife too, which always used to rust in our hot summers due to sweat, no matter how much I kept it oiled. CorrosionX has completely solved all rust issues with everything I've used it on. It's a dang good lubricant also.
Myrdhyn
Member
Which Corrosion X?
Which CorrosionX are most of you using?
The one for guns specifically or something else?
Which CorrosionX are most of you using?
The one for guns specifically or something else?
Take your pick...
But my recommedation would be to have a can of the red aerosol and some of the straight fluid. I find the 4 oz. version for guns a bit expensive per oz. and if you want, just get the larger size for trigger spray application and separate the contents into smaller bottles for drip/precision use and share amongst friends.
Here's a great site for you where most (bit not all) of the CorrosionX line can be had... http://www.billsquickmart.com/corrosionx.html
And for Eezox, product and ordering information can be found at: http://www.eezox.com/gun-care.html
But my recommedation would be to have a can of the red aerosol and some of the straight fluid. I find the 4 oz. version for guns a bit expensive per oz. and if you want, just get the larger size for trigger spray application and separate the contents into smaller bottles for drip/precision use and share amongst friends.
Here's a great site for you where most (bit not all) of the CorrosionX line can be had... http://www.billsquickmart.com/corrosionx.html
And for Eezox, product and ordering information can be found at: http://www.eezox.com/gun-care.html
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Myrdhyn
Member
So it is the same thing in different bottles basically? If so I'm all about buying in bulk; however, if it is a different forumla then that would be why I'm asking.
edit: Just checked out that site and it appears they are the same formula. I'll be ordering some next paycheck I think b/c I've been having some summertime rust issues myself. (IWB carry on a blue'd slide gun in Alabama heat/humidity)
edit: Just checked out that site and it appears they are the same formula. I'll be ordering some next paycheck I think b/c I've been having some summertime rust issues myself. (IWB carry on a blue'd slide gun in Alabama heat/humidity)
Sam Adams
Member
I wondered the same thing and called up the manufacturer. I was told that the formula for CorrosionX For Guns (in a 4 oz. bottle with a precision applicator) is the exact same as the 16 oz. bottle that is just CorrosionX. She said that the difference is that they found that gunnies usually like to put the least oil possible in just the right spot. Me - I want the lowest cost per ounce, so I bought the bigger bottle.
So far, so good. I haven't had a shop leak, flood or similar horror story, but I've read enough posts from a wide variety of people on the web with no ax to grind to know that this stuff WORKS. I use FP-10 as my CLP (and its a decent "P"), and then wipe down the outside of my guns with the CorrosionX. I'm going to acquire many VCI-impregnated bags to put my guns, mags, reloading dies and other tools into, so that I have a double layer of protection - whatever the VCI doesn't stop, the CorrosionX will.
hemiram
Member
Sam Adams said:
Did your friend star in some movies with Sigourney Weaver?
We used to kid him about that! I used to have a pic of one of his Shortwave radios, only a couple years old, next to my nearly 15 year old one I bought off ebay, they were the same model, same year of production. His was new, in the box old stock, and was absoultely perfect. Mine was used, but in good shape.
After about 2 years, his radio looked like paint thinner had been sprayed all over the front of it, the paint and labels were missing off the front, and there was the usual huge blurred fingerprints on the top steel case slightly rusted, mostly just kind of eaten into the paint. Mine looked just like it did when I got it.
You should see the Winchester 1894 he bought a few years ago. It was pretty rough then, but now there is rust all over it. It shoots fine. I make sure I wash the hell out of my hands after handling anything of his before I touch my guns or anything painted or metal.
Did your friend star in some movies with Sigourney Weaver?
We used to kid him about that! I used to have a pic of one of his Shortwave radios, only a couple years old, next to my nearly 15 year old one I bought off ebay, they were the same model, same year of production. His was new, in the box old stock, and was absoultely perfect. Mine was used, but in good shape.
After about 2 years, his radio looked like paint thinner had been sprayed all over the front of it, the paint and labels were missing off the front, and there was the usual huge blurred fingerprints on the top steel case slightly rusted, mostly just kind of eaten into the paint. Mine looked just like it did when I got it.
You should see the Winchester 1894 he bought a few years ago. It was pretty rough then, but now there is rust all over it. It shoots fine. I make sure I wash the hell out of my hands after handling anything of his before I touch my guns or anything painted or metal.
I'm surprised to see so many negative stories about Break Free CLP as a rust preventor. Someone recently tested many major brands and found only Eezox to beat Break Free in preventing rust. Some of the products specifically designed to prevent rust fared much worse than the Eezox and CLP.
Break Free is all I've been using for years and I haven't had a problem.
I'm not challenging anyone that says they've had trouble with clp, it's just unusual to hear.
Break Free is all I've been using for years and I haven't had a problem.
I'm not challenging anyone that says they've had trouble with clp, it's just unusual to hear.
CLP good rust protection
I have run 3 different rust tests of my own. In all the tests the CLP performed quite well. I used framing nails hit with a wire wheel and degreased. I then applied the oils/grease and tested with saltwater sprays. The second test was with saltwater applied after the oils sat for 1 month. The third test was the same as the first but used straight tapwater. Some of the tested oils were...in order of performance; Hoppes Grease,Eezox, BF CLP, BC Barricade/Sheath, Outers Gun Oil(20 yrs old), WD40, Pennzoil ATF, Ed's Red, 10W30 motor oil, Hoppes No. 9, Hoppes Lubricating Oil, Snap Silicone spray, Rem-Oil.
I wasn't really surprised what performed well in my tests since it mirrored what I had seen in online tests. What surprised me was how poorly some performed. The Rem-oil nail was so rusty it was hard to distinguish from the control nail in both the saltwater tests. I will definately defend the position that CLP is an outstanding rust preventative, and would even say it does that better than cleaning and lubing. I quit testing after a total of 20 applications with a spray bottle(3 days) and the CLP had almost no rust at all in every test.
As for the rust problem I would recommend getting a little digital weatherstation that shows relative humidity and temperature($15 @ Target) and a dehumidifier as already suggested. I have read museums try to keep pieces around 70deg.F and 50% humidity. I realize that isn't realistic in some parts of the country but it's a start. I usually wash my hands before I fondle the guns also. Good Luck.
I have run 3 different rust tests of my own. In all the tests the CLP performed quite well. I used framing nails hit with a wire wheel and degreased. I then applied the oils/grease and tested with saltwater sprays. The second test was with saltwater applied after the oils sat for 1 month. The third test was the same as the first but used straight tapwater. Some of the tested oils were...in order of performance; Hoppes Grease,Eezox, BF CLP, BC Barricade/Sheath, Outers Gun Oil(20 yrs old), WD40, Pennzoil ATF, Ed's Red, 10W30 motor oil, Hoppes No. 9, Hoppes Lubricating Oil, Snap Silicone spray, Rem-Oil.
I wasn't really surprised what performed well in my tests since it mirrored what I had seen in online tests. What surprised me was how poorly some performed. The Rem-oil nail was so rusty it was hard to distinguish from the control nail in both the saltwater tests. I will definately defend the position that CLP is an outstanding rust preventative, and would even say it does that better than cleaning and lubing. I quit testing after a total of 20 applications with a spray bottle(3 days) and the CLP had almost no rust at all in every test.
As for the rust problem I would recommend getting a little digital weatherstation that shows relative humidity and temperature($15 @ Target) and a dehumidifier as already suggested. I have read museums try to keep pieces around 70deg.F and 50% humidity. I realize that isn't realistic in some parts of the country but it's a start. I usually wash my hands before I fondle the guns also. Good Luck.
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