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Rust

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing and Repairs' started by Airbrush Artist, Jan 16, 2013.

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  1. Airbrush Artist

    Airbrush Artist member

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    I found 2 small spots of rust on the cylinder and frame of My 38 Detective Special appreciate any input as too what steps too take ,its a 1973 Model,the only rust.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2013
  2. 788Ham

    788Ham Member

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    Well, it was explained to me, by a wise guru on this forum, to use a brass cartridge case, rub gently until the rust is gone. I had a couple of small spots on my revolver, I used a spent .22 case, quickly removed the spots. I then oiled the spots, it won't replace the bluing, but may keep the rust from growing deeper and bigger. Maybe try cold bluing to cover these spots?
     
  3. dfariswheel

    dfariswheel Member

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    Here's how I did it in the shop.

    Get a penetrating fluid like Kroil, or CLP Breakfree. Kroil is best and can be bought from Brownell's or many gun shops.
    Liberally soak the areas in the fluid and let soak for at least 24 hours. This will penetrate, soften, and lift the rust.

    After soaking apply more fluid and then scrub with a brass "toothbrush".
    This will remove the rust without damaging the remaining bluing.
    You can also use a brass scraper as above.
    DON'T use coins. Too many are not soft metals like the old ones and may damage the gun.

    After removal of the rust, there will be missing blue and small pits which you can't do anything about short of a full refinishing.
    Wipe the metal clean and apply a thin coat of CLP Breakfree. This will prevent further rust, will "work" on any remaining rust, and will protect the metal.
     
  4. Airbrush Artist

    Airbrush Artist member

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  5. 45crittergitter

    45crittergitter Member

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    BRONZE wool and gun oil.
     
  6. rcmodel

    rcmodel Member in memoriam

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  7. Trent

    Trent Resident Wiseguy

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    0000 steel wool is the miracle worker for rust.

    Use an LED light - easier to pick up on the rust colors with the color range of LED's, vs. incandescent bulbs. Rust color tends to stand out more.

    Also, if you're not sure you got it all, take a picture of the gun with a digital camera using the flash. You'll see rust clear as day.
     
  8. greek45

    greek45 Member

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    CorrosionX will get under any water, bond to the metal and stop rust. It does very well in rust prevention comparisons, better than CLP. Eezox does well also, but I can find CorrosionX locally.
     
  9. ahandgunner2

    ahandgunner2 Member

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    My FFL showed me Stainless Steel Wool (lightly)and Balistol or Kroil - did a Steyr slide with rust on it and it worked really well. I imagine brass wool would work nice too.
     
  10. Trent

    Trent Resident Wiseguy

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    I've occasionally found little spots on several guns, here and there. I've never had 0000 mess up a finish or fail to remove the rust.

    I *will* offer one more piece of advice though. Blow it out with an air compressor after you are done! Otherwise little itty bits of steel wool you can't even see without magnification will collect in various spots, and probably start rusting over time.

    As mentioned above, stainless steel wool will cure that particular headache, but it don't take long to hit it with the air hose, either.
     
  11. dagger dog

    dagger dog Member

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    I have had brass transfer from the brass scraper ,wool,etc,to the blueing of the firearm, and it's very hard to remove once it transfers.

    0000 steel wool with Kroil as others state ued with common sense will not harm the finish and will remove the rust.

    After that is done use a wax to protect the finish.
     
  12. Catpop

    Catpop Member

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    I was glad to see rc mentioned RIG. It's was the only thing I ever used in my gunshop from 1970 to 2000. Glad to see it's still alive and stong----like me!:)
     
  13. Horsemany

    Horsemany Member

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    Yeah RIG is excellent stuff. Especially the convenient RIG rag. Dunno what I'd do without it.
     
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