S.A. Loaded 1911 Guide Rod and Plug

[BridgeTooFar]

I have a S.A. Loaded 1911. I'm considering replacing the 2-piece guide rod with a standard guide rod and the plug with a standard model as well. The main reason is that it complicates the take-down process and the unscrew-able piece of the guide rod keeps unscrewing during prolonged firing sessions.

Any reason that I shouldn't do this? Most of what I've read says there's really no issue with this, but I wanted to be sure I wouldn't be screwing something up and wasting my money at the same time.

 

[Jolly Rogers]

Any reason that I shouldn't do this? Most of what I've read says there's really no issue with this, but I wanted to be sure I wouldn't be screwing something up and wasting my money at the same time.

Answer, No.
Just make sure to install the recoil spring correctly, with the tight coil on the base of the guide and the open wind into the plug.
Joe

BTW both my Springer Loadeds are converted this way.

 

[Drail]

A two piece rod only "complicates the takedown process" because you've only been taught one way to take down a 1911. Remove the slide from the frame and pull the spring and rod out from the rear. (like a Browning HiPower) Two piece rods do tend to unscrew themselves unless a little loc-tite is used on the threads. I used to use FLGRs until I learned that the short GI rod is just fine.

 

[BridgeTooFar]

Thanks for the advice. I think I'm going to go ahead with the switch.

A two piece rod only "complicates the takedown process" because you've only been taught one way to take down a 1911. Remove the slide from the frame and pull the spring and rod out from the rear. (like a Browning HiPower) Two piece rods do tend to unscrew themselves unless a little loc-tite is used on the threads. I used to use FLGRs until I learned that the short GI rod is just fine.

Yeah; I tried taking it down the other way, but I can't actually get the rod out through the back (maybe the plug to rod fit is too tight, but either way, it binds when I try to take it out by removing the slide first). I thought about the loc-tite route, but decided against it thinking that (although I'm sure it's been used there nearly since it was invented) I really didn't want something meant to bind to metal inside my gun - not sure if it even could cause an issue if/when used there, but I don't really even want to think about what it might do if so.

 

[jmorris]

I made this. I always hated looking for the right torques bit to remove the grip panels and the Allen for a 2 piece guide rod (at an angle for increased torque).

 

[Drail]

Just go with a GI rod and plug. You won't give up anything.

 

[BridgeTooFar]

Went with Ed Brown parts (GI Plug and GI Rod); got them; dropped them in; after one range trip, no issues whatsoever. Thanks again for the advice.

 

[Tallinar]

I did the same thing with my Loaded model for the same reasons. An FLGR in a 1911 is the solution to a non-existent problem. It's supposed to "prevent the recoil spring from binding," but I have never met a 1911 shooter that has ever experienced such an issue.

There's a ton of debate on the FLGR that can be found over at 1911forum.com, if you want to read all the arguments pro and against.