S&w 14-3

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OrangePwrx9

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Came across one of these today. 6" pinned barrel. Very clean, blueing around 98% with a little wear near the muzzle. Lockup very good on 4 of 6. Slight play in the remaining two. The LGS wants $399.

There's a significant ding on the front edge of the cylinder right at the corner of a flute. Not big enough to detract from appearance but enough to make me wonder if it's been dropped or sustained crane damage.

Wondering what the S&W brain trust thinks of this deal??
 
That's a darned good price on an outstanding revolver. I have three of them that I have purchased over the last 5 years. The last one two weeks ago at $475.

IF you can live with the ding on the cylinder, the lockup can probably be fixed rather easily.

I may be a wee bit biased, but I'd go for it.
 
Lockup very good on 4 of 6. Slight play in the remaining two.

On Smith & Wesson's there should be a very slight rotational wiggle rather then a rock-solid lock up when the trigger is held back. The latter only applies to some Colt models.

If the "ding" didn't extend to the edge of a chamber I wouldn't worry about it. If the revolver was hit with enough blow to seriously hurt it you would see some additional evidence of it. If the cylinder was really wacked I'd expect...

AFTER CHECKING TO BE SURE THE CHAMBERS ARE UNLOADED: Latch the cylinder and then look at it from the front. Lightly press on the left side of the cylinder and see if there is any wiggle between the yoke and frame. The "yoke" is the hinge part the cylinder swings out on. Very little wouldn't matter, but more would. It is not a difficult condition to correct, but it might have to go back to the factory if a qualified gunsmith wasn't locally available.
 
Came across one of these today. 6" pinned barrel. Very clean, blueing around 98% with a little wear near the muzzle. Lockup very good on 4 of 6. Slight play in the remaining two. The LGS wants $399.

There's a significant ding on the front edge of the cylinder right at the corner of a flute. Not big enough to detract from appearance but enough to make me wonder if it's been dropped or sustained crane damage.

Wondering what the S&W brain trust thinks of this deal??
The question I would be asking is what will this do for me that Model 19 can't do better and for not a lot more money. I would pass on this one.
 
I've got 19s and 27s but for fun shootin' there's just sumthin' about balance of the K-38 Masterpiece that draws me in every time.
 
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The question I would be asking is what will this do for me that Model 19 can't do better and for not a lot more money.

My answer would be that when shooting .357 Magnum's I prefer a heavier gun with more metal around the back end of the barrel, and when shooting .38 Special's (which I do most of the time). I find it tiresome to keep cleaning the fouling out of the longer Magnum chambers. I see Smith & Wesson's K-frame as ideal for what it originally intended to use - .38 Special cartridges, and the later L-frame as better to use if .357's are your cup of tea.
 
The question I would be asking is what will this do for me that Model 19 can't do better and for not a lot more money. I would pass on this one.

If you have ever handled/shot a K38 you wouldn't ask that question. I have had a couple of them and they have the best trigger from the factory you are ever likely to experience. They balance well in your hand and will shoot one hole groups with 148gr HBWC ammo (which is what they were designed to shoot).

I guess it's a part of getting older, but I find that I enjoy the accuracy of a gun more than the noise and flash. I seldom shoot magnum ammo anymore and if I am going to shoot mild .38's, the K38 is perfect for that task.

1950 K38 Masterpiece. I have been shooting this gun for close to thirty years.
IMG0456-XL.jpg
 
The question I would be asking is what will this do for me that Model 19 can't do better and for not a lot more money. I would pass on this one.
Wow, where to start?

I guess the old answer, " ...if you have to ask, you'll never know..." would be sufficient but I'll add to what Iggy, Old Fuff, and highpower have said. The Model 14 is "THE" revolver. Built from the factory as a target revolver, it dominated matches for quite a number of years. As a hunting revolver, it is still tops for small game and some larger game as well. While the M19 can handle 38 Special ammunition, accuracy is less than when fired in the M14.

For me, anything that needs to be done with a 36 caliber handgun can easily be accomplished with the 38 Special.
 
The question I would be asking is what will this do for me that Model 19 can't do better and for not a lot more money. I would pass on this one.
For starters, the 6" K-38 is a target gun. As such, it's chambered in a target cartridge and the sixgun is equipped with target sights. Believe it or not, some folks like to do a lot of shooting and there is little better for that than a good K-38. If you're gonna shoot .38's, there's no reason to buy a .357. If you're gonna shoot targets and tin cans, there's no reason to buy a sixgun with orange combat sights. Which is why I own two K-38's and ZERO model 19's. However, as one who, by his own admission, "does not like to shoot a lot", I wouldn't expect you to understand. :rolleyes:
 
Another feature of the K-38 is it's cousin the K22. They are the same size and weight and configuration.

Kframes.gif

I have 3 pairs of these. One pair for each grand child. Start'em with a .22, move them to a .38 and then they are on their own.
 
My answer would be that when shooting .357 Magnum's I prefer a heavier gun with more metal around the back end of the barrel, and when shooting .38 Special's (which I do most of the time). I find it tiresome to keep cleaning the fouling out of the longer Magnum chambers. I see Smith & Wesson's K-frame as ideal for what it originally intended to use - .38 Special cartridges, and the later L-frame as better to use if .357's are your cup of tea.

The best answer!


Scott Campbell
Remember wheel guns are real guns too
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