S&W 29-3 barrel change - gunsmith can't get barrel off

[the naked prophet]

I've got a S&W 29-3 .44 mag with an 8 inch barrel. I also have a 5 inch barrel that I wanted put on.

But the gunsmith said the 8 inch barrel was so tight, he couldn't get it off. He was afraid he would "spring the frame" if he put any more torque on it. He said S&W may be able to remove the barrel, but I'm not sure I want to bother sending it in, and pay shipping two ways on top of that.

He used WD40, he used heat in case it was red loctite, but nothing worked.

Any ideas?

Why would it be stuck? It's not a pinned barrel.

 

[Old Fuff]

If it isn't pinned the barrel was crush fitted at the factory, and you're lucky the gunsmith stopped when he did. It is generally acknowledged that changing a crush fit barrel is a job best left to the S&W factory. If you are determined to change the barrel you'd be best off spending the money to have it done right. Doing it wrong could leave you with a ruined frame.

 

[Majic]

Sounds like you need a new gunsmith. Was he using the proper action wrench? Crush fit barrels have always been used by all other gunmakers and barrels have been changed with no problems providing you use the correct tools.

 

[SaxonPig]

I'd say 99.9999999% of the time you are better off selling what you have and don't want and buying what you don't have but do want. Doing conversions almost always winds up costing more with often dissatisfying results.

 

[Standing Wolf]

I also have a 5 inch barrel that I wanted put on.

I'd love to have one of those myself.

I'd say 99.9999999% of the time you are better off selling what you have and don't want and buying what you don't have but do want. Doing conversions almost always winds up costing more with often dissatisfying results.

I've had lots of guns gunsmithed. There are, indeed, incompetent and fraudulent self-styled "gunsmiths" who do butcher jobs; competent gunsmiths, however, can work veritable miracles, and ought to be encouraged to do so.

 

[the naked prophet]

I know he's done a lot of S&W work, including dozens of barrel changes. That's why I picked him. He said he's never had any problems like that before.

 

[Gator]

He used WD40..

Nuf said. Get a new gunsmith.

 

[jdomin]

S&W

If your dead set on changing the barrel,then send it to S&W.

 

[the naked prophet]

He only used WD40 to penetrate into the threads to try to loosen them up. A completely appropriate use of WD40.

The reason I want to keep this gun is that the action has been gone over by a good gunsmith (whom I don't know). It is literally the smoothest shooting revolver I've ever held or fired. My old S&W model 10 is nice, but not that nice.

 

[351 WINCHESTER]

I'll 2nd that. If he used wd40 I wouldn't let him touch any of my guns.

 

[Gator]

A penetrating OIL would have been much more appropriate.

 

[Troutman]

<< He used WD40, he used heat in case it was red loctite, but nothing worked.>>

This is what happens when one monkeys around with those areas (barrel removal).
Then when something goes wrong, (owner) blames the gun company, the gun itself.

http://www.smith-wesson.com/wcsstore/SmWesson/upload/other/Revolver.pdf (page 30)

Even the below (for gunsmiths) advisory is for new revolvers. Good to post it for those blacksmiths, shoemakers who try to fix firearms.


GUNSMITH ADVISORY
CAUTION:
TITANIUM, SCANDIUM, and X-FRAME REVOLVERS
NO attempt should ever be made to remove the hybrid Barrel
Assembly with a standard barrel wrench. To do so will destroy the
barrel shroud and possibly the frame of your revolver. As the accompanying
drawing (Figure 17) shows, the barrel shroud is keyed into the
frame by a metal tab. The stainless steel barrel tube must only be
removed by a qualified gunsmith using a special tool available from
Smith & Wesson. The barrel assembly is re-installed using the same
tool and an accurate torque wrench.

CAUTION:
TITANIUM & SCANDIUM REVOLVERS
The titanium cylinder used in your AirLite Ti and AirLite Sc revolvers
weighs approximately 60% of what a similar stainless steel cylinder
weighs and yet is able to withstand the same operating pressures.
Care and cleaning of the revolver’s titanium cylinder consists of normal
gun cleaning procedures using high quality gun oil and cleaning
solvents when necessary. However, under NO circumstances should
the cylinder’s chambers (charge holes) or front face be cleaned with
an abrasive material such as sand paper, Scotch Brite™, Crocus
Cloth, etc. To do so will disrupt it’s protective surface layer and greatly
reduce the cylinder’s service life because of excessive erosion that will
take place while firing and will void your revolver’s warranty.



<< Any ideas?>>

Yes…….see post 2 – 5, 7,8….10 – 11.

 

[Cocked & Locked]

My 29-3 pictured here was originally a 6". I bought a 4" barrel and my gunsmith switched it for $60.

I don't know if he used WD-40 or not, but he did use the proper frame wrench for a N-frame.

I bet I now have the only S&W model 29-3 with the "Lazy &" on the barrel.

 

[Gator]

Cocked & Locked, that's a beauty! I have a 6" 29-3 I want to change to a 4" also, but I don't know if I'll find one of those "lazy &" barrels.