S & W 32 long CTG??

[carl418]

So, does that mean that mine is the next generation of the Model of 1903? And, what about the Roy Jinks book saying the Third Model started in 1911? It seems there are a lot of inconsistancies about this gun in those two books. Thanks for all your help, I really would like to get this right.

 

[Yitbos69]

Thanks for the info Fuff,

I have another gun its a S&W .38 ctg SN#148256 Auto eject hammerless.
Pat. Dates Aug 4th 1885, April 9th 1889, Oct 4th 1889. Has tha S&W Trademark of the right side of the revolver and both sides of the grip. Here are a couple of picture.

Also the butt of my .32 is oval

Thanks again for your help

 

[Old Fuff]

Depends on what you call the "next generation" Given the serial number I would say that it's a: .32 Hand Ejector; 3rd. MODEL made from 1917 to 1942 in the serial number range 263,001 to 536,684

It followed the .32 Hand Ejector; 5th CHANGE made from 1910 to 1917 in a serial number range running from 102,501 to 263,000

Be aware that there is a difference between a "model," and a "change." Also some overlapping of serial numbers is possible.

Clear as mud?

 

[carl418]

Very much better, thanks to you and this forum! I'm still a little unsure why the two books give different dates, depending where you look, tho.... But, I do understand more than I did! Thanks for all your help!

 

[BluesBear]

Because the two books were researched and published at two different times. Therefore as new information is uncovered the facts don't change so much as they just become clearer.

Jim & Richard are currently working on the Third Edition of The Standard Catalog and once that is published I'm sure there will be even more confusion as things become even more confirmed.

This is one more reason I find the $30 factory history letter to be a bargain.

 

[carl418]

Do you feel that spending the $30 would be worthwhile in my case? Other than knowing for sure the date of manufacture, would that add anything to the gun? I've wondered about that, as there were several made, and this one is run of the mill, but in great shape with original box.

 

[BluesBear]

I've never seen a case where a plain jane sent to a hardware store gun didn't sell for $50 more simply because it had the letter.

Besides it's nice to know where exactly the gun was shipped to and exactly what date.
Besides you might uncover something really cool and unique about it.

And, heaven forbid you should ever need it, it's also the kind of documentation insurance companies love/loathe.

 

[carl418]

hmmmm... I hadn't thought of the insurance side of it... thanks for the sound advice!

 

[Old Fuff]

If your revolver is in excelent shape and in the original box (few boxes survived) you have a lot of collector value built in to start with. Add the letter and the total value of the package would far exceed the cost of the letter, or the value of the package without the letter.

Also no one knows when S&W might decide to end this service or increase the fee. At Colt such letters cost $100.00 and sometimes more.

 

[Yitbos69]

more help fuff

Thanks for the info Fuff,

I have another gun its a S&W .38 ctg SN#148256 Auto eject hammerless.
Pat. Dates Aug 4th 1885, April 9th 1889, Oct 4th 1889. Has tha S&W Trademark of the right side of the revolver and both sides of the grip. Here are a couple of picture.

Also the butt of my .32 is oval

Thanks again for your help
Attached Thumbnails

 

[carl418]

When I get it paid off, I'll post pics here. It really is in very excellent shape, but the box has seen better days. Still in one piece tho. I won't have it until September tho. I'm a poor man! lol..

 

[Old Fuff]

Yitbos69:

You have a revolver that has always been one of my personal favorites…

A Smith & Wesson .38 Safety Hammerless – also known as the “New Departure” model. At the factory they simply called them the “Safety.”

Serial No. 148,256 falls into the 4th Model run – made between 1898 and 1907 in a serial number range from 116,003 to around 220,000. Standard barrel lengths were 3 ¼”, 4”, 5” and 6”. Standard finishes were blue or nickel plate (usually with a blued trigger guard). The 5-shot cylinder was chambered for the .38 S&W cartridge. The stocks are black hard rubber, and fitted to the individual gun – you’ll find the serial number marked on the inside of one or both stocks.

The gun was a mainstay in the S&W line, and remained in production from 1887 until 1940 – possibly a year more. It was considered an ideal pocket or bedside table gun because of the combination of a double-action trigger pull combined with the grip safety (long before Browning and others incorporated the feature into automatic pistols). The action was designed in such a way that the trigger pull actually got lighter as the hammer reached the release point. This gave an experienced user a chance to align the sights just before the revolver went off.

Don’t dry fire it unless you have snap-caps or empty cartridge cases in the chambers. Otherwise you’ll mash the firing pin spring or break the tip off of the firing pin.

 

[Yitbos69]

Old fuff,

Thanks for the info on the two guns. It was very helpful.

 

[Yitbos69]

SN

Fuff,

I think I found the SN for the S&W .32 long ctg. #49999 does this help nail down the date?

I have also attached few pictures

Thanks again

 

[Bobhwry]

Old Colts vs Old S&W's???

Why do older Colts command much higher prices than old S&W's of similiar caliber and vintage??

 

[Old Fuff]

Yitbos69:

You have a Smith & Weson .32 Regulation Police model. It is a variant of the .32 1903 Hand Ejector (round butt) that was introduced in 1917 at serial numbers in the high 262,00 serial number range. I'd peg the date of manufacture of your gun as being around 1928. Barrel length was 4 1/4". You also have a neat period holster to go with it. These are harder to find then the gun itself.

You'll find additional information on the Regulation Police in other posts within this thread.

 

[indy_shooter]

please help with 32 lont ctg

First post here, nice forum.

I have the same gun shown on post # 7 of this thread.

More details:
sn 3590xx, patented feb 6, 06 sept 14, ??, dec 2?,14
som rust is making the patent difficult.

My father has had this since the Korean war and I would like to fix it. A screw fell out of the right side of the frame, above the trigger, it is the screw that holds the cylinder assembly in the frame. Also the pearl (plastic) grips are broken.

Can you show me on brownells, numerich or somewhere you recommend which S&W model I would buy parts for ?

The big hurdle is knowing the model, none of the models mentioned in this thread appear as options on brownell or numeric.

When do you think it might have been made ? I know it seen lots of action in Korea.

Thanks

 

[BluesBear]

I believe the J-frame (model 36) screw would work. But to make sure just give Numrich a telephone call. The people there are VERY helpful and they really know their stuff. They'll be able to tell you exactly what you need.

 

[Old Fuff]

At the present time I'm on a legal defense team, and going to court tomorrow (Friday) and won't have time too do any more research until the weekend.

Anyway sometime back S&W changed their thread sizes. Therefore I need to do some more checking. In the meantime, stand by...

 

[TBirdGuy]

32 S&W

I recently acquired a .32 Smith & Wesson Hand Ejector revolver, S&W 32 Long CTG, serial number 207911, last pat. number sept 14, 09.
S&W logo on the right side, patents, etc on top of barrel.
Wondering how old it may be.
Thanks for any help.

 

[TBirdGuy]

32 S&W

I should add that the piece has the rounded butt and what appears to be wooden grips.
While I have not fired or dry fired it, the revolver seems to be DA.
A little pull on the trigger causes a movement of the hammer.
Probably not safe to fire it.

 

[Old Fuff]

Sounds like a Smith & Wesson .32 Hand Ejector/ Model of 1903; 5th Change. Serial numbers in the 5th Change run from 102,501 to approximately 263,000 and 160,499 revolvers were made between 1910 and 1917.

I would expect the stocks to be made of black hard-rubber, but S&W would provide wood ones on special order. The other more likely case is that they are later replacements, but take them off and see if they are serial numbered to the gun on the underside.

This is a conventional single-action/double-action hand ejector revolver. If it isn't working that way have it checked over by a gunsmith. If it is in solid shape it would be safe to fire with either .32 S&W or .32 S&W Long ammunition.

 

[TBirdGuy]

32 S&W

It appears to be working ok. Everything seems straight and nice and tight. It looks like it has been through 2 or 3 wars though. Bad shape appearance-wise. Needs cleaning up and oiling. What the heck, it was free.
Thanks.

 

[Old Fuff]

A nice blue / nickel job doesn't make it shoot any straighter...

Clean it up and have some fun.

 

[TBirdGuy]

Hello Old Fuff,
The grips were black hard rubber. They were so nasty and had a fine coating of rust so they looked brown. No serial numbers on the backside of the grips. Apparently they had never been off the piece before. The metal underneath them was covered with rust. Cleaned the whole thing up and oiled it well, works much better now. There is a lot of bare metal, not shiny, showing on the exterior but there is a lot of what almost looks like black paint or something, badly done. Doesn't look like bluing, more like what Mossberg used to call parkerizing, only thicker, sometimes spotty, sometimes lumpy, but sometimes thiner and smooth. Almost looks like the repair stuff I have to fix scratches, etc. on my 590, only much harder. Normally bore cleaner would clean that off but not this stuff. Sure would look much better with out the mess on it. Could it be oxidation? There are some black oxidation spots on it but not like this thicker stuff. Any suggestions on how to clean it all up?