S&W 34-1 Kitgun problem...

[Avenger29]

Okay, so I just purchased a beautiful little S&W kitgun in .22LR today, 4" blued barrel. Tons of fun to shoot.

Only one issue, and it's a minor one. The little springloaded pin that's under the barrel that holds the front end of the ejector rod when the cylinder is closed is a smidgen too long and causes the cylinder to bind up when you try to release it. It's a pain in the butt, but I want to solve the problem before I wind up with a bent ejection rod or other problems.

So, can I just take a fine file and very carefully file off just enough metal so that it swings in and out properly, or do I send it off to a gunsmith?

And here's a picture of a kitgun with the problem area circled.

 

[Old Fuff]

Don't do anything with a file!!!

First conduct an experiment (don't worry, it's safe and you won't hurt anything.).

When the cylinder is latched, pull it backwards as hard as you can while you push the thumbpiece forward to unlatch and swing the cylinder out. See if it opens any easier, and then come back and report your findings.

Also when the cylinder is out, drop a few empty (fired) cases into the chambers and then see if you can turn the extractor rod inwards. No tools needed - use your thumb and fingers. If you can turn it inward do so, and then check to see of the cylinder opens and closes any easier. Report back.

 

[Avenger29]

I thought I posted an update to this thread. From a thread on another site, I found that it is indeed a loose ejector rod.

The cylinder now opens and closes a little easier after tightening the ejector rod. But not quite as smooth as I'd wish.

How shall I proceed now?

 

[Oro]

How shall I proceed now?

1) make sure the ejector rod stays tight. Use blue loctite if necessary, but don't use force with any tool that can bend it or mar it (like grabbing it with pliers).

2) Clean and lube the locking locking bolt with a penetrant then an oil if it is not operating freely already.

Other than that, don't mess with it if it works. You should meet some resistance closing it - that bolt is designed to solidly lock the ejector rod in place for cylinder alignment. It may be just that it needs to break in based on the looks of that gun.

That is a gorgeous pre-war target kit gun. Just lovely.

 

[Avenger29]

Wait, that picture is not mine. I'm just using that pic as an example. I wouldn't shoot a pre-war, nor could I afford one. Nor can I take as good of pictures as that.

Mine's a mid '70s gun, but is very, very nice looking in it's own right. I don't think it's been shot much and probably needs breaking in anyway.

 

[Oro]

Oh, ok, 'cause I was just about to edit it and say "wait, that's not a 34-1" in the photo!

Either way, don't do anything too drastic with the ejector rod (aka extractor rod).

 

[Avenger29]

I won't do anything drastic.

I have got to get a good S&W book on maintenance, especially since I plan to obtain more in the future...

 

[Old Fuff]

Returning to post #2, does it make any difference when you hold the cylinder back while pushing the thumbpiece with the other hand and swing the cylinder out? You may or may not have what is known as a cylinder end-shake issue.

Another remote reason may be that the pin on the cylinder latch, or the center rod in the cylinder is short so that the center rod isn't being pushed far enough forward. Both of these parts were (or should have been) individually fitted when the revolver was assembled at the factory - but one never knows for sure until it's checked.

I should add, Smith & Wesson revolvers should not require breaking in. Dry firing will burnish the internal lockwork and make the trigger pull smoother, but have no affect on how the cylinder swings in and out.

 

[Avenger29]

For your first question, no.

I'm going to find a gunsmith who knows S&Ws who can check it out. I gotta check 'em out, because I don't want to end up taking it to some idiot who would hack it up.

 

[Old Fuff]

I'm going to find a gunsmith who knows S&Ws who can check it out. I gotta check 'em out, because I don't want to end up taking it to some idiot who would hack it up.

I would second the motion, but finding a 'smith that really knows Smith & Wesson revolvers can be difficult, regardless of what they may claim. I suggest that unless you have found an exception to the rule, you return it to Smith & Wesson. It is likely they will fix it under warrantee, and pay all expenses including shipping both ways.

 

[Avenger29]

It is likely they will fix it under warrantee, and pay all expenses including shipping both ways.

Even though I'm not the original purchaser?

 

[Old Fuff]

Even though I'm not the original purchaser?

Yes, if they determine that the problem is related to how the revolver was originally assembled.

In addition, after they receive it the gun will be completely disassembled and examined for defects of any kind, not just what you specified. If they find anything they generally fix it unless there has been tampering on the inside.

If they should find anything that would be considered an owner's responsibility they will contact you with a quote on what the work will cost. You can either pay for the work or have the gun returned "as is."

Bottom line: They want to keep you happy so you'll buy more Smith & Wesson's.

 

[Avenger29]

Cool. I'm going to shoot them an email now and see what happens.

 

[Oyeboten]

Any dirt or tiny metal flash or machining debris, preventing full forward position of the 'Bar' whose off-set end communiates through the Center Rear of the Frame to move the Ejector Rod at the Cylinder's rear...can also make for hard release...

 

[Avenger29]

Good to know.

I'm going to in all likelihood ship it in for a good checkup anyway.

 

[Avenger29]

I gotta pay shipping on it. I may sideline this revolver a little while until I get a couple more paychecks in.

 

[Old Fuff]

There can also be another often overlooked cause. Back off the front sideplate screw about a half-turn and see if it makes any difference. Be careful, and use a screwdriver that's ground to fit the screw slot & head.

People swap sideplate screws around without knowing that the front one is slightly different then the one behind it, and if they are reversed the screw can make the yoke hard to rotate.

 

[Avenger29]

I don't have the properly ground screwdrivers. I'm sending it to S&W for a good checkup in general, I don't really mind doing that, sending it to the people who know what they are doing. I have that feeling that I'll screw it up, and every time I've proceeded past that feeling in the past, I've broken stuff.

 

[Old Fuff]

I don't have the properly ground screwdrivers. I'm sending it to S&W for a good checkup in general, I don't really mind doing that, sending it to the people who know what they are doing. I have that feeling that I'll screw it up, and every time I've proceeded past that feeling in the past, I've broken stuff

You're a lot smarter then some folks I've known...