S&W 620--advice?

[Eightball]

On monday, I'm getting a new-from-the-factory Smith 620 (long story on that one). Anything I should keep an eye out for during the "break in" period, or just keep an eye out for in general? Sorry to ask a hideously stupid question (and probably one that's been hashed over a million times), but I just got back to the forum after a long break, and an "immediate" answer is needed---it's coming through the mail, to my house, on monday, regardless, but due to various constraints I couldnt' ask sooner. And, oh yeah---it's great to be back.

 

[Croyance]

You will hear bitching about the lock.
Beyond that, some people will question the consistancy of S&W's quality, so a thorough eyeball check is recommended. Of course put a bunch of rounds through it.

 

[Eightball]

Anything particular about the lock, or just the fact that it exists?

 

[Croyance]

Many hate its existance. There have been some who say that it can activate on its own, though there are not many instances of this reported. It seems to be a 99.9% chance it won't.
Do some searches here about the lock. I admit to not deeply following the issue since they don't make revolvers I like anymore.

 

[Stainz]

I have just as many S&W's with the lock as without... it is no big deal, believe me. I have never had a problem, other than wondering what that spot I couldn't wipe off was from some four years back (My first 4" 625-8 .45 ACP). I now use my reading glasses when I clean my guns. While I wouldn't buy one with the lock if I didn't have to, S&W is making some fine firearms now, like your 620 (It's on my list...), to say no to the lock keeps one from experiencing some fine new revolvers... not me!

I'd unload it and remove that grip and make sure that strain screw, on the lower front of the grip frame, is tight (CW). Then, I'd flood-spritz a bunch of a good aerosol cleaner/lube, like RemOil, into the innards, wrap the grip frame area with a paper towel and shake to remove the excess - repeat if much metal residue, etc, is present. Shake it fairly dry and re-install the grip. Lock your ammo away somewher else, find a garbage TV show and dry-fire the snot out of it - changing grip hand every 100 shots or so - to at least a thousand times. Then, repeat that first step and leave it with little cleaner/lube. You'll have a slickened trigger - possibly some lighter in DA, as well - at least your trigger finger(s) will be excercised!

Get a HKS #587 speedloader - they fit the 686P's 7-shot cylinder. Actually, a 620 is simply a 686P cylinder and frame, with a last 4" 66's two piece barrel. I don't care for the open back Hogue grips, so I would either put on an Uncle Mike's Combat grip, probably squared like my 66 came with. The rounded ones feel great, too - and they both cover that backstrap. Of course, any K or L frame round butt grip will work - grips/stocks are highly subjective. Congratulations on a fine purchase!

Stainz

 

[Eightball]

Of course, any K or L frame round butt grip will work

I thought it was a square-butt gun ? Just checking--new to the "usable" revolver game, after all (my other 2, I don't use, just collect).

How much does said speedloader cost?
And, (this oughta show how much I know about it)...is it possible to remove the lock and still have the gun function? Any "good" hogue-type wood grips that would work on this (just a thought)?

Thank you both for helping me out with this. and Stainz--want me to keep you posted on it, once I get one (since you're looking)? Thanks for the "slick trigger" advice, too--I'll make good on it, though I can already hear my trigger fingers screaming at me for it .

 

[Croyance]

HKS Speedloaders coast about $10, maybe less for the more popular ones. I'm sure the internet companies have them for less.

I am pretty sure all the L-frames now are round butt. You can remove your grips to find out.

The nice thing about L-frame guns is that they share the same grip frame as K-frames. Millions sold, large market to encourage grip manufactureres.
Yes there are Hogue type grips for them, go to Hogue's website and check out your options. Any K or L frame grip (of the correct square or round butt type) will fit.

Unlike Springfield or Taurus, Smith and Wesson does not make the lock in a way that is easily removable. I suppose people could loc-tite it open, but I'd worry about the stuff flowing out and gumming the insides.