I've been shooting pins with wheel guns and autos for a couple years now and have decided to pick up a 625 JM. This will allow me loading only 45ACP for big bore. Anyone have good or bad experience with the JM's? The specs are great on them, but how do those good specs translate into shootability?
S&w 625 Jm
- Thread starter distra
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I have one and it is great. It did have a pretty rough forcing cone when I brought it home, so I had to recut the forcing cone before I took it out to shoot it. The grooves in the trigger were also pretty sharp, so I had to smooth them just a little to keep my finger from getting torn up. I also put in a serated ramp front sight instead of the gold dot front sight.
I always expect to have to dial a new gun in to my personal preferences. The work on this one was pretty minor and the results were well worth the effort.
I always expect to have to dial a new gun in to my personal preferences. The work on this one was pretty minor and the results were well worth the effort.
If you search in this board you can see detailed pics in the sticky thread, about s&w 10.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=397027
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=397027
Stainz
Member
I replaced my first 4" 625-8 with the 625JM when it first became available, 2/05. As said, I tired of leaving DNA samples on the sharp trigger serrations - some fine emery cloth took the edge off quickly. As to trigger, it will break-in quite well to a smoother trigger. If you want a softer DA trigger, and recall that J M himself likes a stiff return spring for faster follow-ups, be prepared to be married to Federal primers, good brass, and meticulous cleaning under the ejector star - and of the moonclips.
Still want that lowered DA pull? S&W grinds the 625JM's strain screw as a trigger lightening step. The sharpened screw wants to go into the Wolff replacement hammer spring, whether regular or reduced, power rib hollow, effectively shortening said screw's length more - and further reducing the hammer energy. Even with Federal-only primers, I had ftfs with the reduced power hammer spring - until S&W sent me a full length strain screw. The full power Wolff hammer spring is an improvement over the OEM spring - and still permits other primers to function. I use only new Starline brass, having put away my .45 ACP sweepings for now (It's my only .45 ACP firearm!). Some of my revolver-only Starline brass has been reloaded 10-20 times or more.
I load .45 Auto Rim Starline brass with .45 Colt lead (Usually 255gr LSWC) for 'fun' - no moonclips required. If I have a revolver I will wear out, it'll be the 625JM. Yeah, mine is a keeper - as is this year's 'best buy' - my 627 Pro. They share the same height HiViz front sight, easily changed in seconds. I still bought a second one for the 627 Pro, of course!
Buy lots of moonclips (Ranch Products were ~$30/100 delivered.). The Brownell's nutdriver-style demooner is all I need. If you reload, Starline .45 ACP brass is $137/1k delivered from them. If you don't reload, Wally World had UMC ball ammo in brass for $82/250. It's a fun piece... and a great home protector. When quizzed by a range-friend why I didn't have a bottom-feeder with spare mags to defend my home from Zombies, I took this picture for him:
105 loaded moonclips fit in a metal .223 ammo can. I feel protected!
Yeah, I like the 625JM.
Stainz
Still want that lowered DA pull? S&W grinds the 625JM's strain screw as a trigger lightening step. The sharpened screw wants to go into the Wolff replacement hammer spring, whether regular or reduced, power rib hollow, effectively shortening said screw's length more - and further reducing the hammer energy. Even with Federal-only primers, I had ftfs with the reduced power hammer spring - until S&W sent me a full length strain screw. The full power Wolff hammer spring is an improvement over the OEM spring - and still permits other primers to function. I use only new Starline brass, having put away my .45 ACP sweepings for now (It's my only .45 ACP firearm!). Some of my revolver-only Starline brass has been reloaded 10-20 times or more.
I load .45 Auto Rim Starline brass with .45 Colt lead (Usually 255gr LSWC) for 'fun' - no moonclips required. If I have a revolver I will wear out, it'll be the 625JM. Yeah, mine is a keeper - as is this year's 'best buy' - my 627 Pro. They share the same height HiViz front sight, easily changed in seconds. I still bought a second one for the 627 Pro, of course!
Buy lots of moonclips (Ranch Products were ~$30/100 delivered.). The Brownell's nutdriver-style demooner is all I need. If you reload, Starline .45 ACP brass is $137/1k delivered from them. If you don't reload, Wally World had UMC ball ammo in brass for $82/250. It's a fun piece... and a great home protector. When quizzed by a range-friend why I didn't have a bottom-feeder with spare mags to defend my home from Zombies, I took this picture for him:
105 loaded moonclips fit in a metal .223 ammo can. I feel protected!
Yeah, I like the 625JM.
Stainz
When I put in my spring kit, I noticed the shortened strain screw. I put in a long one and it now works fine. I also put in a Cylinder and Slide shot firing pin. The more recent 625s chambers seem to have been cut a little longer. If you don't like using clips, like I do, you will bet plenty of FTF. The longer firing pin takes care of that.
I mostly use AR brass in it though. I measured the chamber throats with my pin gages. .452". Perfect. Very accurate.
I mostly use AR brass in it though. I measured the chamber throats with my pin gages. .452". Perfect. Very accurate.
earplug
Member
I own a four inch JM and two 625-8's with five inch tubes. My eyes and scores do better with the five inch. I shoot steel, bullseye and a little practical. Been years since I have shot pins, I'd think the longer heavier tube would recover faster between shots and the longer sight radius would be a plus.
The actions of all three were equal out of the box.
The actions of all three were equal out of the box.
Stainz
Member
Lay that C&S extended fp next to the OEM part - the fp's are the same, just the movement restricting notch is longer, permitting the fp assembly to flatten the little spring - especially when dry-firing - always put something in the chamber, a snap cap or used (empty) case.
Trash in that frame mounted fp's hole is problematic, too - clean it periodically, too.
Stainz
Trash in that frame mounted fp's hole is problematic, too - clean it periodically, too.
Stainz
I made it to the range today to put some rounds through the JM. Let me say moon clips rock for releading! 
The 625 trigger is not bad, less the serrations (those are going to get sanded ASAP) I was able to get all six shoots rapid fire in the head section of an IDPA target. Single action is not really a challenge to get really tight grips. This a nice shooter right out of the box! I do like the brass bead for a front sight, not sure how long it will stay bright though. After about 200 rds the trigger did improve some, but I would still like to lighten the trigger a touch so I may do the spring change mentioned above. I am just sorry I waited so long to pick one up!
The 625 trigger is not bad, less the serrations (those are going to get sanded ASAP) I was able to get all six shoots rapid fire in the head section of an IDPA target. Single action is not really a challenge to get really tight grips. This a nice shooter right out of the box! I do like the brass bead for a front sight, not sure how long it will stay bright though. After about 200 rds the trigger did improve some, but I would still like to lighten the trigger a touch so I may do the spring change mentioned above. I am just sorry I waited so long to pick one up!- Status
