S&W 629 .44 mag for $489 - Good deal? What to look for?

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marktx

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Local gun shop has a real nice looking stainless 629 for what seems like a decent price of $489. It looks barely used and the finish is nearly new condition. Grips are the wood ones with a kinda of waffle pattern that I understand can get uncomfortable. Cylinder seems ok for tightness, didn't have a guage to check gap. It makes very nice crisp clicking when operated. Serial number range is AWA 77XX and it's marked 629-1.

Anything to be cautious of? Is it a decent price? Great?
 
Sure haven't seen one for under 500 bucks here.

I don't know about the 629-1 specifically. I'll leave that to others with a lot more knowledge.:)
 
Not really looking for one but saw it and it looked so nice I thought it might be a nice addition to the collection. I don't really have many pistols and my only revolver is a Model 66 .357 that I'm rather fond of. If it's only a decent deal I might pass but it seemed like it might be a real good deal that would be worth snapping up.
 
If I saw it, I'd probably get it -- I don't have a ton of extra cash and I already have a 629.:)

I do think it's a pretty good deal.

Grips can be replaced with the current-issue rubber ones for 20 bucks at Cabela's (http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...parentType=index&indexId=cat601233&hasJS=true). And you'll still have the wood ones for looks (or you can sell them to someone like me, who'd rather look at the wood ones even if I put the rubber ones on for woods carry).
 
Do you feel lucky? Well, do ya.....punk?

You best... it's a deal. I've been looking for one of those... and a crappy brown suit.
 
For a 629 no lock I think it's a very good deal. In time it will be wonderful deal. 629's are just fun, especially if you reload.

Put it on layaway and pay it out if nothing else.
 
Depending upon mechanical condition and barrel length, it's a decent to fair deal I would say, considering tax, etc., and also depending upon barrel length. For a 4" gun it's a pretty dang good, for a 6" it's a decent deal, and for a 8 3/8" I would say it's about market price. Each one tends to pull about $50 more than the next larger size if you look at enough transactions ( I have one 629-1, and I'd like another one in 4", so I watch the market carefully). Regardless of length, it would be hard to go wrong at that price unless there's a hidden problem somewhere.

Even though it's stainless, check out the bore carefully, remove the grips and look under them, and DO check the b/c gap for size, but more importantly even measurement top/bottom and side-to-side. Check the hammer for step-off at the SA cock. S&W production was pretty consistent at the time these were made (this one is late '80s - probably '87 or '88 if I had to guess); my biggest concern would be checking the action has not been "Bubba'd" and the simplest test for that is step-off. As I said, even though it's stainless, it's about 21 years old, and can you think of a 21 year old out there that hasn't got into at least a little trouble somewhere along the way? ;)

The factory wood target grips have the right shape, the problem is the checkering with full-power magnum loads. A nice trick is to track down factory "smooth" or "plain" targets w/o the checkering - problem gone and the look good. Kim Ahrends sells grips like this as do a few others in addition to the hard-to-find factory smooth/plain targets.
 
Oro...

could you explain these thigns to look at a little more in depth?

b/c gap

hammer step off

even measurement top to bottom


exactly what are you measuring, and how?

thanks
 
Barrel to cylinder gap is the distance from the front of the cylinder to the "forcing cone," or rear of the barrel. It's measured in thousandths of an inch (hopefully) with flat fingers of metal called "feeler gauges." Minimum gap is around .003"--less than that the revolver could jam due to fouling buildup. Gaps over, say, .006 or .007" reduce the velocity of the bullet and also cause your arms and face to get pelted with powder and lead particles.
The first revolver I bought, a brand new Ruger GP-100, had a huge gap (hundredths of an inch) and was no fun to shoot. I ended up sending it to Cylinder and Slide to have the barrel set back a turn. The gap is now .004" and it makes all the difference in the world.

To test for step off or push off, cock the hammer and try to push it back down with your thumb. If it falls, the hammer/sear engagement is faulty, probably because an amateur tried to crispen the single action break.

Checking for even measurements will detect crane or even frame warpage.

A quick search at Gunbroker for "629-1" yielded a price range from $600 to $900.
 
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