S&W 629 v. 686

[Confederate]

I'm thinking of trading my brand new 629 S&W for a 7-shot 686. I've always wanted to try one of the latter, but I've never had the chance to shoot one. Just out of curiosity, how well do the 7-shot hold up compared to the 6-shot? Are there any known issues with the former?

Just curious. Having a 7-shot always intrigued me, though I don't think speed loaders are common for those things. Does anyone have one? Feedback?

 

[sig228]

Arguably, the 4" 7 shot 686 is the perfect revolver. No known issues. Mine shoots like a dream. Recoil, whats that?

 

[L-Frame]

HKS speedloaders are common for it, but unfortunately it cannot be the perfect revolver if there are no Safariland Comp II's for it. (But it's darn close)

 

[Texasred]

Very fine gun that you will probably shoot alot more of.

 

[Stainz]

I keep a few HKS #587 speedloaders loaded with 158gr LHPSWCs in .38 Spcl +P for my one 7-shot 686+ - a 2004 'Stocking Dealer Exclusive', a 5" partial lug revolver that came with a HiViz front and V-notch rear sight - and the Ahrends grips shown - a deal - and a keeper!



The even more fun revolver below it - a 4" 627 Pro - is currently being made - and represents a true bargain. It comes with a target muzzle crown, spring-loaded frontsight - Patridge included (I like the HiViz - easily changed without tools.), a modicum of a trigger job, and moonclip-ready. Believe me, it's worth a few bucks for that sight and the moonclip capability. Ranch Products will ship you the 'clips for $75/100 0r $50/50, too. The 627 is an 8-shooter!

Now, if you like the partial lug look of that 5" 686+ above, think of it with an inch less barrel - and you have a 620, a 7-shot - essentially a 686+ with a partial lug 4" barrel - and a few bucks less, too.Sorry your 629 has to go - which model is it? Good luck!

BTW, I know of no 7 vs 6 shot 686 longevity problems. Mine is fine after 5.5 yr, although nearly the last two have been in competition with the 627 Pro - the 686+ may have some cobwebs on it!

Stainz

 

[Oro]

how well do the 7-shot hold up compared to the 6-shot? Are there any known issues with the former?

The weakest point on the 7-shot cylinder is thicker than the weakest point on the 6-shot cylinder. Look at the photos above. Notice how the 7-shots cylinder notch is offset from the actual bore? That leaves the cylinder walls as the thinnest points, but the cylinder walls in a 7-shot are thicker than the wall/notch thickness on a 6-shot.

 

[Ky Larry]

Don't know about you, but I shoot my .357's a lot more than my .44 Mags. They're cheaper to feed but both have their uses. My 686 is a 6 shot with a Millet red dot and B-Square mount and rings. Great shooter.

 

[joed]

I had a 686 + with 2" barrel. Sold it and kept my 66 2.5" barrel, I'm not fond of the L frame.

 

[bluetopper]

I reload therefore the difference in ammo costs are negligible to me, but no way would I ever trade a 629 for a 686.
Why not have both? I do.

 

[Walkalong]

but I shoot my .357's a lot more than my .44 Mags

So do I, and I shoot my Redhawk 100 to 1 compared to my 29-3.

 

[Confederate]

I want to make sure that I have an extra set of keys for the lock!

Why have a 686 instead of a 629? Because I'm getting to the point where I just can't shoot the .44. It's too expensive and I just don't have it in me.

My 629 is the original issue. Pinned barrel, counterbored chambers, stamped sideplate, never been fired. The question is, are the values on both equal? Should I go for a straight trade or is the 629 worth more? (The 686 has only been fired a few times.)

One thing I don't like are the datgum grips. I wish the 686 grips were wood and not Rubbermaid. The ones on my 629 are smooth wood S&W grips.

 

[rswartsell]

Walkalong,

How does that relate to the OP? Just the best way to get Ruger into a non-Ruger thread?

 

[General Geoff]

Instead of trading towards a 686, perhaps you should be looking at a 627. It is the .357 equivalent of the 629 (they are both N-frames), holds 8 rounds, and will generally be more pleasant to shoot than the 686 (slightly heavier, and thus less recoil).

 

[Oro]

My 629 is the original issue. Pinned barrel, counterbored chambers, stamped sideplate, never been fired. The question is, are the values on both equal? Should I go for a straight trade or is the 629 worth more? (The 686 has only been fired a few times.)

What barrel length is it?

That one might be worth a premium to a knowledgeable buyer. Relatively few were built that way. Many buyers and no dealers are going to price it that way, but a few people value it. I'd just relegate it to shooting .44 specials if the magnums aren't fun for you. I don't shoot many magnums at all out of my 629. .44 specials out of the 629 will kick a little more than .38 specials out of the 686, but nowhere near like .357s.

Another thought is, if it helps make keeping the 629 more financially sensible, get a 1st generation 686. They came with decent last-generation checkered wood target grips and were well made - about contemporary with your 629, 1980 to mid 80s. Gun prices are soft now; one of those could probably be had $450 to $475 with some diligent shopping.

 

[The Lone Haranguer]

The only reason not to avail yourself of the seventh shot is in competitions built around six-shot firing strings.

 

[Guillermo]

There is no way in the world that I would trade a pinned, recessed jewel for a new MIM gun. Let alone one with the moronic lock.

Keep the 629 and save for a 686.

 

[earlthegoat2]

Ill take a pre lock 686 over any new one.

The 7 shot guns are not stronger or weaker than the 6 shot ones.