S&W 63 Cylinder Gap Problem

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Because people like you and me will fix it ourselves no matter if it takes only minutes or it takes many hours. I just hate being without a new faulty gun if I can fix it myself and have it ready that day. It's frustrating as hell, though.

Now if the manufacturers would price their guns into two categories, such as "ready to go - full price" and "you make it better - 39.98% discount", I could live with that and I would buy accordingly. I guess S&W already does that with their Performance Center guns. o_O

Thats funny. A ready to run gun or a new fixer upper. Hell of a choice.:rofl:
 
Or even the original barrel that has been set back a little bit and squared up. It would only take setting it back 0.015" to have enough length on the forcing cone to machine it off square.

That assumes, of course, that the problem is with the barrel/forcing cone.
It more than likely is. Cylinders are very easy to machine, done in a lathe. What is more likely to be off is the threads on the frame not being cut square. Easy to load the frame into the machine improperly and when the frame comes out for it to not be inspected by the operator. They'll be checking other critical dimensions like hole diameters.
 
I've wondered at times why someone at some time didnt try to make their revolver with a type of "cam lobe" in the frame that would hold the cylinder fwd when the cylinder bore lines up to the barrel.
 
That is what kills me when the fanboys start carrying on about, "Send it back and at least give them a chance to make it right!".... They already had their first chance when they made the damn thing. Doesn't that count?

I have a new Ruger American Ranch rifle in .300 BO, wouldn't load worth a darn.

Sent back to factory and they installed a new barrel and gun chambers everything now.
 
I've wondered at times why someone at some time didnt try to make their revolver with a type of "cam lobe" in the frame that would hold the cylinder fwd when the cylinder bore lines up to the barrel.
How about the Russian Nagant? Also has seven shots.
 
No problem. A real jacket would make 22 ammunition too expensive so the copper wash or copper plating can be done at a reasonable price.

And I am sure S&W will make your gun right. They have a great reputation and so far as I have heard a quick turn around time.
They call that ".22 magnum"... :rofl:

Stay safe.
 
Its still tough to buy a new gun and have to have it worked on. Its like the old saying "why is there never time to do a job right but always time to do it over?"

I bought a pre lock 629 and the ejector rod wobbled like crazy. I called S&W and they sent me a shipping label and told me as long as it locked up it wouldn't hurt anything. But I didn't like it. I spun the cylinder and used a magic marker to mark the high side of the wobble. Then I braced the cylinder with the high side up and whacked it with a rubber mallet. It spun straight as an axle after that and no trip back. I bet thats all they would have done.
Exactly. They put it in a gauge that measures the wobble (Concentricity??) and then bend the high side towards the low side until it's within spec. (I saw a gunsmith using one somewhere that stated that a .005" ejector rod wobble is within S&W specs.) I can't say whether that wobble statement is true or not, but .005 isn't toooooo bad if one bent a rod worse than that tapping out a stuck case or forcing a cylinder open after it's bound up due to the rod backing out.

Stay safe.
 
I have had two of these guns, both from early production and have been frustrated with both. First one gone. Second one was dad's and I got it by inheritance. Neither of these guns can be shot more than about 18 times (rounds) without a good scotchbrite cleanup of the back of the barrel and the front of the cylinder. Need to wipe the chambers often also. Doesn't matter what ammo is used. My brother had a 66 that did the same thing. I have recently heard, probably faulty info, that the earlier stainless used by Smith tended to gall. Suggestions? Rather not send to Smith but would consider it if nothing else suggested works.
 
Okay Gentlemen, back on course. ;)

I had contacted Smith & Wesson on Monday, Jan. 27th and they sent me a shipping label. I shipped it Friday, Jan. 31st and they had it on Monday the 3rd. On Feb. 6th I received an email telling me they have assigned an RMA number and would be processed for repair. On Feb. 17th I was notified my gun was being returned. I received it yesterday.

I can tell they replaced the old barrel with a new one. I can tell because there was a slight blemish in the original barrel. There is no blemish now.

I measured the cylinder gap.
  • Left side: 0.006” a very snug 6 thousandths of an inch or a loose 5 thousandths.
  • Right side: 0.006”

Left side photo with 0.005” feeler fully inserted

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Left side with 0.006” feeler gauge partially inserted.

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Right side 0.006” feeler fully inserted.

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Look at the black crud on the end of this new barrel. I am not sure if that is from the machining or the assembly process. I would have thought they would have cleaned that off. Actually, as I am writing this I am thinking I should have fully cleaned it before measuring, but I am laid up with a sciatica issue with my back and I just don’t feel like messing with that now. Besides, I am taking Percocet. Not wise to be taking pain killers and handling guns.

The silver areas are where I was moving the feeler gauges in and out.
ACBAC0DA-28E0-4B43-A6C4-1FE1DAEE594C.jpeg


I tried to get a decent shot of the inside of the barrel but this was the best I could do.

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If my back feels better tomorrow I plan to take it to the range and see how she shoots.
 
I finally got to the range yesterday to shoot my model 63. I have decided that I do not like the fiber optic front sight on this revolver. I plan to look into installing a front red insert ramp sight.

Here is what the barrel looks like after cleaning it up after the factory installed a new barrel. I also changed out the factory Combat Grips to a Hogue Monogrip. I like the grip much better now.

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