S&W 642 cylinder question

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bluekouki86

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How smooth are all of your 642 cylinders when spinning or rotating out of the gun? My brother and I have matching 642-1 Airweights that have both been heavily carried for years. His spins silky smooth like all my other Smiths do, but mine is very rough in comparison. Not sure if I need to be worried about something worn. It has had roughly 2500 rounds through it, mostly standard .38 a little +p. Never had a malfunction, just noticed the difference in feel.
 
Have you taken cylinder apart and cleaned it. Mine spins smooth but I also clean and lightly oil periodically.
 
Yes it has been apart and oiled. I didn't see anything obviously worn, but it still feels quite rough compared with other Smiths. Maybe I just got a factory dud?
 
You say you have carried this 642 for years and have run 2500 rounds through it with no malfunctions? How often has opening the action and spinning the cylinder contributed to that impressive reliability?
 
And to add to Beatledog you don't "slam" the cylinder shut like in the movies do you?
 
You say you have carried this 642 for years and have run 2500 rounds through it with no malfunctions? How often has opening the action and spinning the cylinder contributed to that impressive reliability?

I didn't ask for, and don't need smart ass comments. Do me a favor and don't respond again. Thanks.
 
You noted your overall high level of satisfaction with this firearm, then asked if you have a problem because the cylinder doesn't spin as freely as another example of the same model or other revolvers of the same make. The way you phrase your post makes you sound like you really care whose cylinder spins the longest, as if that makes a difference in how the gun will function.

Unless the cylinder really is binding to the point where function is impaired, there's no problem. If your brother has a 642 whose cylinder spins longer under controlled test conditions, then that's what he has--a cylinder that spins longer under controlled test conditions. That's all.

If that says to you that your 642 is somehow broken, by all means go and have it repaired.

If what you described were an issue that needs to be addressed, some of the other revolver experts on here would be chiming in to recommend what to do. They haven't done so.

Block me if you wish, but don't ask me to not post.
 
I would take the yoke and cylinder out again, slosh it all in mineral spirits to wash and look at the parts again in bright light and try to feel for any roughness. Check those funny little springs for shiny spots. Gotta be something there.
 
* #7beatledog7Member**Join Date: June 18, 2011Location: TidewaterPosts: 4,647You noted your overall high level of satisfaction with this firearm, then asked if you have a problem because the cylinder doesn't spin as freely as another example of the same model or other revolvers of the same make. The way you phrase your post makes you sound like you really care whose cylinder spins the longest, as if that makes a difference in how the gun will function.Unless the cylinder really is binding to the point where function is impaired, there's no problem. If your brother has a 642 whose cylinder spins longer under controlled test conditions, then that's what he has--a cylinder that spins longer under controlled test conditions. That's all.*If that says to you that your 642 is somehow broken, by all means go and have it repaired.If what you described were an issue that needs to be addressed, some of the other revolver experts on here would be chiming in to recommend what to do. They haven't done so.Block me if you wish, but don't ask me to not post.

1. If you had 4 cars and one shook like crazy, would that give you cause for concern? I take my firearms very seiously because its a huge safety issue. When I notice something is wrong or different I want to address it. This has nothing to do with "cylinder spinning contests" or internet trolls who think they know it all.

2. I personally own 3 other s&w revolvers and none of them feel this way. I have a 629, 681, and a 586 thatfeel nothing like my 642 cylinder. Don't you think its atleast worthy of inspection/questioning a possible damaged or unsafe firearm?

3. I will not block you. I came to this forum to avoid all the trolls and keyboard gunsmiths, so keep the comments productive and I have no problem.
 
If I'm just an Internet troll know-it-all, then why do you care what I think?

Have it checked if you think it's an issue.
 
Now, be nice.
My first thought was if it works why mess with it.
But you have others and expect this one to be like them. My first thought would be to take it apart and strip all of the grease and gunk off and then under a bright light look for burrs or rough spots.
if you see any then use either a green scrubby on it or some 600 grit wet or dry paper on it to smooth it just a bit. Clean all grit and gunk from the scrubby or abrasive paper then regrease it and reassemble and see what that does.
 
Wow, such easily bruised sensitivities all 'round. Assume everything you read here was written with a warm smile and make sure that everything you write here is so as well. We'll all get along fine.

As for the gun, well, if it's rough enough to notice and you cannot find what's binding, call S&W and have them check it. That's what they're there for. If they send it back and say it works as far as they can tell, great. Let that be the end of it.

If the gun functions and the trigger pull isn't heavy or gritty, I'd probably just finish breaking it in (another 2,500 or 5,000 should wear the "new" off of it) and use it!
 
Thanks for your input guys. It really doesn't bother me that much, just noticed the contrast between several other guns. I will tear it down again for cleaning/inspection and see what I can find. Like I said before it has never cause a malfunction, and doesn't seem to affect the function of the gun. Its just one of those things I'd rather have the peace of mind knowing its ok, rather than getting a jammed cylinder in a CCW situation.
 
I have had my 642 for 6 years did stop carrying it for awhile for a LC9 but have gone back to it. I think my round count should be close to your's. I too notice from time to time it don't spin as freely as it has done in the pass. When this happen I remove the cylinder and clean it real good put some clean oil on the rod and after that is seems to spin freely again. Have never had a problem with it I just always thought in was natrual and due to it getting real dirty. After reading the responds you got now I'm not so sure. I have own other j-frames in the pass and I just can't recall if they did it too.

be safe
 
If you have taken the crane off the gun and pulled the cylinder off to clean it, there is a chance a piece of bronze brush got stuck inside the cylinder right where the yoke bears on it. It's a pain to get out. I will use a strip of index card folded in a curve to get down in there. Along the extractor rod from the front. The flush with Gunscrubber.

On a 2" the odds are small, but the extractor rod or center pin may be bent. Open the cylinder and spin it, see if the rod wobbles.

No grease on the yoke, it may make it sluggish. Light oil. But, clean out the hole in the cylinder really well first. That may be the problem. Really get in there. Good luck.
 
Make sure to roll your ejector rod on a flat surface, it might be a bent rod.
 
"How smooth are all of your 642 cylinders when spinning or rotating out of the gun?"

I have a 442-1, but I've never spun the cylinder, so I don't know. Great gun though, even after 20 years.
 
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