S&W 642 Lock-up problem?

[jt1]

I have a 642 I bought a couple of months ago. I like the gun but have only had opportunity to test fire it once. It was a kicker but I know I am accurate enough to use it for its intended ccw purpose.

The thing that bothered me recently was that as I was dry firing it, it seems that it isn't quite indexed all the way when I pull the trigger. IF I hold the cylinder with my hand lightly while I pull the trigger, it doesn't quite lock into place before the internal hammer falls.

I can then click the cylinder into place with my hand after the hammer has already fallen.

Shooting regularly, it seems to function fine. The momentum of a brisk trigger pull puts it in place right.

My guess is that it is just slightly out of time from the factory.

What does the collective think?

Patrick

I have tried this with my 642 and it locks-up on the second click of the trigger. Any help for patsue?

While we are on this subject, just what is going on during a trigger pull on the 642? there are two clicks and then it fires. What do these clicks relate to?

THX

JT

 

[GP100man]

jt1
sounds like the timming is a little behind the hammer fall.
call S&W & get a authorization # to send it in!!!
if it lites a primmer out of time itll throw who knows what out of the cyl gap!!
the clicks are the cyl. unlocking then relocking& trigger resetting.
ive shot my share of S&W too!

GP100man

 

[patsue]

The funny thing is, it only seems to do it on a couple of the stops on the cylinder. It clicks twice strongly on all but 2 of them.

I just bought this thing, and already have to send it back?

Oh well

patrick

 

[Titus]

I think the key here is:

Shooting regularly, it seems to function fine.

Especially if you're holding on to the cylinder, it is always possible to make the cylinder not advance quite far enough by not pulling the trigger "enough". If you're trying to shoot by staging, I think you'll find this easier to do on a J frame than other size Smiths. I know folks test timing by putting a little drag on the cylinder, but if you're not familiar with how the revolver works, it's probably just as likely that you're putting on enough to go from testing to "purposely" inducing a malfunction.

 

[Pistol Toter]

jt,
Titus is correct you can induce a malfunction there and it is fine line. If it was mine and I was uncertian; I would let a GOOD gunsmith, one that is trusted, look at it for me. Then determine if it needed to go back to S&W.

 

[GP100man]

the cyl should not rely on momentum to carry it to lock position!!
there should be a mechenical link to each lock !!

GP100man

 

[jt1]

patsue - After reading these responses I have tried to replicate your failure and no matter what I do I cannot make my 642 fire without the cylinder locked-up. Mine will always lock on the second click and then fire no matter what I do or the amount of pressure I apply to the cylinder. It appears you may have an actual problem and you might have to send it back as GP100man has said. You might have it checked locally first as suggested by Pistol Toter, but unfortunately at this point I have to recommend you get it looked at by some qualified person or the factory before it is used again. Please keep us informed. Thx to all of you who responded.

 

[patsue]

Thanks for the advice guys on this. I am going to take it to a gunsmith I trust and have him look at it. If I pull the trigger slowly there are definately two notches that hang and don't quite index all the way.

I like the revolver alot and will get this taken care of. It is just too bad and a hassle that it left Smith like this.

Patrick

 

[Master Blaster]

the cyl should not rely on momentum to carry it to lock position!!
there should be a mechenical link to each lock !!

GP100man

The timing mechanism on the double action rugers I own is the same as on every smith I own, a Pawl, or hand actuated by the trigger pushes against the teeth on the ratchet (after the cylinder stop or bolt falls) on the rear of the cylinder to rotate the cylinder chamber into firing position. The cylinder stop or bolt then rises into the cylinder notch to stop the cylinder and hold it in place.

Rugers can also go out of time when the pawl wears, just like a smith.

 

[crankshop1000]

Just hang some clean paper on each side at the range and see if it is spitting lead from the gap.I'm betting that yours is OK. Also,I took the side cover off my 642 prior to shooting it to clean and lube and found some machining debris inside.I blew the workings out with compressed air and lubed. The trigger pull seemed a bit better and the action felt smoother as it was also dry inside. Chuck.