S&W 686 triggers: new vs. old.

[machinisttx]

MIM is very tough, does not cut down that easy. Cuts clean, but MIM is slow to take down even with a #1 Cut production file. While you file, you'll see how slow the material removal process is compared to a forged steel part which is more adapt to filing and fitting.

I'm no genius, and not an S&W armorer, but I am a machinist experienced with working hardened steel. Files are generally in the 60s on the Rockwell C scale for hardness. They don't cut well, and dull quickly when used on steels in the 40+ Rockwell C scale range, particularly those which have wear resistant qualities. Abrasive metal removal methods are faster and more effective. Either precision grinding or plain old bench stones "cut" better than files at these hardness levels. The key is having the proper stone AND knowing whether it needs oil, water, or nothing to work properly. Some stones will load up if oil or water aren't used, and become ineffective. Some materials are worse about loading stones than others.


Considering the flaws I've seen in some of these MIM parts, I have to question your version of "fitting the part". I also have to question this..

The sear on the MIM is like a jigsaw puzzle and not pinned to the hammer like the older steel double action sear.

Two of my M66's were made in 1999 and undoubtedly feature MIM parts. Both have the same pinned in DA sear as my older 30's-80's production S&Ws.

Something else I am aware of, due to my trade, is the existence of cast to print parts. If properly done, MIM would be no different. When the part leaves the mold it only needs the flash and burrs, if present, removed via tumbling and dimensional inspection.

 

[wjh2657]

Just qualified for TN HCP with my 686-6, post lock, so-called piece of S---
revolver. Score was 100/100 firing out to the 25 yard range. In short I didn't drop a round out of the kill area out of 50 rounds. This was with a 2 1/4" barrel. This piece had the smoothest trigger I have ever felt on any L frame, right out of the box. A thirty year vet of USMC I am not new to handguns and have owned many S&Ws over the years, 27,25,24,686s, 19s, 65, 64X series, and 60s. Trigger on this 686 snub is very reminiscient of N-frames I've owned. Anybody who really shoots knows that you can't shoot possibles with a 2 1/4" barrel at 25 yards without a damn good trigger. I am not that good a little boy, so I don't think I was granted the only decent post-lock 686 out there.

Factory guns are a crap shoot at best. I purchased a very expensive Gold Cup Match .45 years ago for competition. It took almost as much money as the purchase price to get it to shoot and function decently.

I own several post-lock S&Ws and fire them every month. My EDC is one of two of the 64X series (depending on mode of carry, pocket or IWB.) I fire the current carry at least 50 times every two weeks and I would not hesitate to put my life on the line with either of them. If you have to spend a few more bucks on a trigger job, grow up, it's part of the game!

BTW, I still consider the 686 (post lock or not) as probably the best handful of insurance you can have!