S&W J Frame- Centennial vs Chief’s Spl. vs Bodyguard

I carry a J frame more than any other type of handgun. A centennial 442 is my favorite, but I also like hammer guns.
I have to confess that I have been trying to carry a micro compact and compact more often just for capacity.
There is an advantage to the centennial hammer design coming out of a pocket snag free.
The open (spur) hammer does need a holster that covers the hammer.
My pocket revolvers.
Smith and Wesson 442
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Smith and Wesson 642
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Smith and Wesson 637
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Taurus 605 357mag
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Taurus 415 41mag (this is a K/L frame)
A little big, but in the right pants it will fit in a front pocket.
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I carry a J frame more than any other type of handgun. A centennial 442 is my favorite, but I also like hammer guns.
I have to confess that I have been trying to carry a micro compact and compact more often just for capacity.
There is an advantage to the centennial hammer design coming out of a pocket snag free.
The open (spur) hammer does need a holster that covers the hammer.
My pocket revolvers.
Smith and Wesson 442
View attachment 1172234
Smith and Wesson 642
View attachment 1172240
Smith and Wesson 637
View attachment 1172237
Taurus 605 357mag
View attachment 1172239
Taurus 415 41mag (this is a K/L frame)
A little big, but in the right pants it will fit in a front pocket.
View attachment 1172236
Excellent repotire. I have to say, and this is off topic a smidge, a revolver is more organic shaped to me than an auto, hence I pocket carry a snubby. I just cant get on the micro auto/sub contact bandwagon.
 
Excellent repotire. I have to say, and this is off topic a smidge, a revolver is more organic shaped to me than an auto, hence I pocket carry a snubby. I just cant get on the micro auto/sub contact bandwagon.
I agree that the revolver is a lot more comfortable and easier to remove from a pocket. My auto loaders require a larger pocket that has a larger opening.
 
When I was first thinking about a J frame, I was tossed up between the shrouded hammer and enclosed hammer. Ultimately I decided on the 638 because I liked the idea of a single action option. Carried it for years. Still do. About 4 years ago, guns were cheap and a shop had J frames on sale for $337.95. All 3 styles were available. This time I chose a 442, no lock. I notice very little difference when pocket carrying or shooting. The rounded shroud on the 638 can actually help guide the gun out of your pocket for pants with a smaller opening. You can’t go wrong with either type for pocket carry
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Grip: Ergo Delta (ugly as sin, but very comfy in the hand even with +P ammo)
mcb, I'd love to handle those grips at least once; they are fugly with a capital F, but a really original idea.
My most carried. ASIWB. My biggest fear is getting it back if I have to use it.
dicky, the 'king' Centennial is the greatest thing since sliced bread. Big sights, extra weight to control even magnum recoil (okay, not to shoot all afternoon...). I had a heck of a time getting mine, after a positive review in one of the gun rags. I slicked up the action, and really love the thing.

In other matters, two friends managed to drop their M60/M36 hard enough to break the hammer spur. Gun didn't fire, but it left an ugly, ragged stump. I ground that off, but left the single action notch...if somebody did try to cock it, it wouldn't simply slip-hammer down.
Which brings me to shrouded hammer/uncocking issues...it would seem to me that a Bodyguard would be really treacherous for lowering the hammer....(under stress/sweaty hands).
Moon
 
The model 60 was my carry gun until I bought a Glock 26.
P5 guy, I'd love to find an older 3" 60 with the flashchromed forged parts. Is yours magnum, or simply .38 Special? Nice gun!
(as is a P5, which if another conversation)
Moon
 
P5 guy, I'd love to find an older 3" 60 with the flashchromed forged parts. Is yours magnum, or simply .38 Special? Nice gun!
(as is a P5, which if another conversation)
Moon
38SPL Original grips were Uncle Mike's. The conversion round to square butt handle better for me. Target hammer and trigger make a smooth double action pull.
 
For pocket carry and defensive use I prefer the enclosed hammer centennial. Have had a couple 442s and a M&P 340, for a long time I had both a 442 and a LCR I found myself carrying the LCR far more mostly due to the XS sight system on my model and ultimately sold the 442 and bought a nice M36.
 
The hammer on my S&W 36 used to absolutely shred my suit jacket linings.

Grinding if off precluded that, but still allowed me the option of single action fire. It was easy enough to slightly pull the trigger to draw the hammer back and thumb it back the rest of the way.

Best of both worlds. I can’t imagine a revolver like that in a pocket with the full hammer.
 
I also prefer the enclosed/shrouded hammer design for concealed carry. I think the model 60 looks prettier and have one too. The main thing I wanted to gripe about is Smith and Wesson removing the model 649 from their catalog. I had one and and miss it and the old ones go for a lot since they stopped making them. Come in S&W! Make another run! (Without the dang lock)
 
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Grinding if off precluded that, but still allowed me the option of single action fire. It was easy enough to slightly pull the trigger to draw the hammer back and thumb it back the rest of the way.
Please, all due respect, but how will you uncock it....besides very carefully?
As noted, I left the single action notch on the hammers I dehorned, just in case someone did this, and then let go...
Anyhow, realize it can be done, but I wouldn't want to try to ease a hammer down on a live round. YMMV
Moon
 
Showing my ignorance here, but is there any reason one cannot swing the cylinder out before letting the hammer down?
At least on a K-frame, if the hammer is cocked, you cannot release the release the cylinder.

Sorry, I’m to lazy to go to the gun safe and check a J-frame but S&W actions are pretty similar between the frame sizes. So, I’d assume a DA/SA J-frame will not let release the cylinder if the hammer is cocked.

Disclaimer, remember what they say about “assume”.😊
 
I have two J frame snubbies: an all stainless Model 649 and an aluminum frame Model 638. I like the shrouded design because it does give you the option of coat pocket carry and not having to worry about snagging something on the exposed hammer spur.

I also feel there is slightly less muzzle flip due to having the hammer shroud extend the height at the rear of the frame, giving me a higher grip on the frame.
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For those of you who carry a S&W J frame (or equivalent), do you prefer an exposed, shrouded, or enclosed hammer; and why ?
If on the belt carry, I prefer an exposed hammer. If it's for pocket carry, I perfer an enclosed hammer so that I can fire from the pocket.

I never had a problem with an exposed hammer snagging on anything during the draw out of my pocket as the hammer does NOT extend past the grip or above the frame. It's recessed between the frame and grip, so I'm not sure how it's being caught on anything when the edges of a pocket and anything else will make contact and rub/slide against the top of the frame during the draw.

I've never seen the point in shrouded hammers to be honest, and I assume that's the general consensus being that they are not popular, sort after, or offered by most manufacturers. Plus, even with the hammer being shrouded, you still run the risk of debris or objects blocking the hammer from dropping while firing from the pocket. While traveling on long road trips, going to the ATF, pumping gas, etc, I sometimes like to have enclosed hammer revolver in my jacket pocket ready to go in a possible threat comes along without have to present my firearm or risk a brandishing charge.
 
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The discussions here have made me rethink my position on the shrouded hammer J-frames such as the Model 638. It might be worth a look to see how they might fit in my needs. I still am not excited with their looks though.
 
Have all 3, the 638 gets the most carry as it’s the lightest and I like having the option of cocking the hammer. The 36 is a safe queen. The 640 is by far the best and easiest to shoot. 640 no dash all steel was my 24/7 gun for decades. Super smooth trigger and the extra weight along with the better grip angle make it more pleasant to shoot. Chunky in the pocket but a great revolver. Quite a few people fail to realize that Centenial frames allow for a higher grip and handle recoil better than the hammered versions. The Bodyguard frame is in the middle.
 

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Please, all due respect, but how will you uncock it....besides very carefully?
As noted, I left the single action notch on the hammers I dehorned, just in case someone did this, and then let go...
Anyhow, realize it can be done, but I wouldn't want to try to ease a hammer down on a live round. YMMV
Moon

When I had a revolver for a short time with no spur, but still had the single action notch, the procedure for decocking went like this.

- Shooting hand thumb in front of hammer to hold hammer
- Pull trigger to free hammer for forward movement
- Lower hammer with thumb until thumb caught by frame of gun
- Remove finger from trigger
- Pull thumb off of hammer

This allowed the hammer block or transfer bar to get into the "safe" position once the hammer was off the single action notch. Then the hammer could be released the final 1/4" or so of travel. It could pinch the thumb pretty good, but the alternative was much worse.

This is probably similar to decocking a spurless hammer that had the top of the hammer knurled for single action use.
 
chicharrones, you are doubtless correct, but I'd hate to do it in the middle of an adrenaline dump.... :)
When we taught single action shooting to new shooters, your technique is basically how we showed the noobs to ease down a hammer. They were always nervous doing it. So was I, when they graduated to loaded guns.
Moon
 
Have all 3, the 638 gets the most carry as it’s the lightest and I like having the option of cocking the hammer. The 36 is a safe queen. The 640 is by far the best and easiest to shoot. 640 no dash all steel was my 24/7 gun for decades. Super smooth trigger and the extra weight along with the better grip angle make it more pleasant to shoot. Chunky in the pocket but a great revolver. Quite a few people fail to realize that Centenial frames allow for a higher grip and handle recoil better than the hammered versions. The Bodyguard frame is in the middle.
Good point about the fact your grip will be different- higher on the Centennial frame vs the Bodyguard.
 
I started off carrying a steel 5-shot .38 with the hammer. Did that for quite a few years with no issues.

I semi-retired that carry gun and have carried a 642 for about 9 years now.

It's nice to know that I can't gouge or disembowel myself trying to get the 642 out in a hurry. Plus it is so light, which I've gotten quite used to over time. That being said I felt fine carrying the steel gun with the classic hammer and could go back to it without issue. It is also very nice to have the thumb-cock option for a precise shot if desired, something I will never have with a Centennial-style gun.


Every now and again I think about trying a 638; I used to think the Bodyguard style was ugly but in later years I don't care about it as much. I have also occasionally thought about a 637 for the best (worst?) of all worlds on this topic. Haven't yet gone through with any of it. The guns cost a lot to me nowadays for what they are. I can't really justify it yet at this point. When I do snag something along these lines, I have tended to gravitate towards all steel. Just how things have worked out so far. But I have learned over time to "never say never"...
 
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