S&W locks, removal?

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ziadel

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is there anyone out there who's removed the lock from their S&W?

I've been pondering getting a new model 94 and removing the tang safety, welding up the hole and refinishing, anyone doing anything similar to revolvers?


this is obviously for steel frame guns, I have no idea how weldable scandium is..
 
Does S&W make a 94?

You will spend a lot of effort or money to do this. Welding a receiver will likely ruin its tempering. This will certainly void any warranty. Why is this such a big deal to you? I have a Winchester 94 and a new S&W revolver with safeties and it's mildly irritating at best. Can't you just buy an older gun W/O the lock if it's that important to you?

You do realize that removing any safety device leaves you wide open for civil and maybe even criminal prosecution if that gun is ever involved in an AD or a crime whether it's you or used by someone else after it leaves your hands?
 
I wouldn't touch the S&W lock device. Leave it unlocked. If you want a revolver without the lock, buy one. Tampering only sets the stage for problems down the road for you in the event the firearm is used inappropriately.
 
If you head over to the S&W forum, you'll find that there are many people that have had trouble with the lock engaging while at the range--mid string of fire. In my mind, this is a reason to disable the lock on a gun used for personal defense.

There is a good thread over there on how to disable the lock, as well as the circumstances under which the lock has failed for some users.

Take a look and make a decision,

--usp_fan
 
usp_fan,

I will have to disagree with you. There are not "many people who have had trouble with the lock engaging" over on the S&W Forum. In fact, the number I last read very recently (yesterday) was somewhere around five (or six) smith-wessonforum members who have actually experienced it first-hand.

There have been, however, many people who are quite willing to voice their opinion about the lock over on that same forum. That number is up in the hundreds!
 
Why not loc-tight it open instead? I'm sure there is a solvent for it if and when you want to sell. This should keep it from shifting to 'locked'.
 
nitesite,

My bad, I'm new to that forum and must have misconstued some of the comments. I will admit that the hole is somewhat ugly in an otherwise attractive package and I'm not trilled with the increase in potential things to go wrong. My bias may have clouded how I read the comments there.

I have a new model 25 mountain gun that I need to run through the paces. I will be watching the lock carefully and make a determination for my self whether it stays or goes.

--usp_fan
 
I would never by pass a safety. As much as we don't like them, they are a symptom of the times. If ever an accident happened with the reworked gun, your chances of being prosecuted and/or going to prison, even if it was not your fault, are significantly increased. " Ladies and gentlemen of the jury, this man purposely and deliberately removed the safety of his gun because he has a total disregard for human life and the safety of others. He chose to ignore what the manufacturer and the industry have installed on new guns, as essential to insure the safety of others. He believes himself to above the normative standards of society and above you and I, so that he took others safety into his own hands." There isn't a firearms expert who would testify in your behalf. You'd be a gonner. If you or anyone else has problems with a safety then by all means return it to the factory. I've never had nor ever heard of a safety creating a failure to fire situation. Forums are full of "stories."
 
Croyance said:
Why not loc-tight it open instead? I'm sure there is a solvent for it if and when you want to sell. This should keep it from shifting to 'locked'.
+1
One of many good uses for loc-tight.
Be careful with the solvent if you remove it. The wrong solvent could damage the finish. :uhoh:
Test a small spot under one of the grip panels to be safe.

JH
 
Here's another suggestion: Buy the S&W and 100,000 rounds of ammunition and leave the lock alone. Shoot the 100,000 rounds.

If it locks once, send it to S&W, and they'll give you a new gun.

If it doesn't lock, you might have become a good enough shot to have made the likelihood of the lock malfunctioning a measurable fraction of the likelihood of you missing your target.
 
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