S&W M10, looking for info from any 'experts'

[Hacker15E]

Hi all -

I'm typically an automatic type of guy, but I want to take the plunge into the revolver world. Unfortunately, I don't know much about specific values and desirability of different models.

I'm looking at a Pawn Shop gun right now, an ex-LEO S&W Model 10, blue, 4" heavy barrel. SN is BJA 1262. He's asking $230.

The pistol shows some holster wear at the muzzle and front of the cylinder, but the blueing is otherwise nice. It seems to have a tight cylinder (this is where my lack of experience with revolvers is bringing me down a bit...) with just the smallest bit of side-side play and about the same amount of rotation of the cylinder. It has black rubber Pachmayer grips.

Can anyone reference the year of manufacture? Is there a way to find out what LE organization it was with?

Looking at the internet auction sites, it seems like the asking price is a bit near the high end for M10s, but doesn't seem unreasonable.

Opinions?

 

[Marko Kloos]

Looks like that one was made in 1991.

The price is not altogether unreasonable. That money would be well spent, as the M10 is the best general-use medium frame revolver in existence and will outlast you easily if you don't abuse it. For a first revolver, a Model 10 is an excellent choice...it may just sour you on fancy flatguns if you're not careful.

They're accurate, versatile, fun to shoot, and near indestructible.

If it's worth $30 to you, you can have Roy Jinks at S&W look up the shipping records for that M10 and find out where it went after it left the factory.

 

[Hacker15E]

Thank you, that's exactly the info I was looking for.

I think I'll go pick it up!

I'll report back later on if I've become addicted to the wheel gun yet...

 

[popeye]

If it was me I'd ask to pull the grips off and see what lurks under there, as in rust. You may want to put stock grips on it some time.

 

[Old Fuff]

The revolver appears to be O.K., but the price is on the high side for a gun in this condition. For not a whole lot more you might find a model 15 Comabt Masterpiece, which is a similar .38 Special revolver, but with adjustable sights and other dexuxe features as well.

Popeye is right. check under the grips for rust. Also download and print a copy of Jim March's thread in the revolver section. It will explain how to check out a used revolver.

 

[Hacker15E]

Also great advice, thanks.

I'll go check it out some more then report back. Maybe I'll report back with it in my collection, if things look good.

One additional question...what is meant when people talk about a "pinned" barrel on these revolvers? Is this a desirable feature? How can I tell?

 

[Flatfender]

Pinned and Recessed

S&W used to place a small pin (until early 80s I beleive) in the frame and barrel to lock the barrel in place. The way S&W barrels were fitted it was a belt and suspenders thing, the barrel wasn't going anywhere anyway.


Recessed means that the chambers are counterbored to accept the rim of the cartridge case, allowing it to sit flush with the back of the cylinder. Non recessed cylinders are shorter and the case rim sits above the chamber, leaving a gap between the recoil shield and the cylinder.

 

[Hacker15E]

Just read the sticky on evaluating revolvers and checked the sixgun in question out today...

Things from that list to check all looked okay. The only thing I'm unsure of is the cylinder-to-barrel distance, as I don't have a micrometer handy. It passes the "credit card" test, at least!

The only thing that makes me wonder at all is the double action trigger pull. The single action is like a dream!! Very crisp break and probably around 4 or 5 pounds (better than my 1911...guess I'll have to get Tuner to work on that!!). The double action pull just feels very mechanical as it's engaging the cylinder. Not sure if it's "bad", because I really don't have anything to gauge it against. I've heard from others that a clunky double action pull is 'typical' on S&W revolvers, but I don't know how expert of an opinion that was.

I took the grips off, and there's nothing gross going on down under them. There's a small bit of surface grime where the former owner's palm seems to have sweat quite a bit, but that rubbed off easily with a microfiber towel. The blueing is worn off on the backstrap area (dunno what the revolver terminology is...) where it obviously was in contact with all sorts of stuff while riding in the holster. There is a small amount of spot surface rust inside the trigger guard, which rubbed off easily with my fingernail, so I assume some CLP would do the trick. Other than that, it looks factory new under the grips.

 

[Old Fuff]

A clunky double-action trigger pull in not "typical" on Smith & Wesson revolvers - at least the older ones. As a matter of fact, they potentially, if not actually, have the best double-action trigger pulls you can get. This is because of a design feature that is available in Smith & Wesson's and isn't offered in any competitors' products.

In Smith & Wesson revolvers the trigger engages a little lever mounted in the hammer face (called a "sear") and pushes on the bottom of it, which causes the hammer to rotate backwards as the trigger is pulled. After the hammer is rotated about ¾ of its travel the trigger engages a ledge lower on the hammer face, and thereafter continues to rotate the hammer backwards, but with more mechanical advantage, which makes the pull feel lighter. This goes on until the hammer reaches the end of its travel and is released to fall and fire the cartridge.

Other makes of revolvers only rotate the hammer while the trigger is pushing on the sear itself and release the hammer sooner, making a heavier spring necessary to insure reliable function.

When an S&W revolver is correctly fitted, the hammer rotates and the cylinder turns smoothly, without any apparent feel of the parts interacting with each other.

Of course not all S&W revolvers (as well as other brands) are always correctly fitted, and dirt and grit or wear in the action may result in an uneven or rough feel.

The particular revolver you a looking at is priced well toward the high end of its usual value. That kind of money should get you a flawless double and single action.

Incidentally, the single-action trigger on any S&W revolver is usually much better then what will be found on a typical 1911 style pistol. But the revolver's hammer does not have to remain cocked while a slide goes forward and slams into battery.

 

[Hacker15E]

It seemed to me that the clunky portion of the DA trigger pull was all in the first 1/16" -- as the hammer just started to move and the little half-moon piece protruding from the frame at the bottom of the cylinder started to retract. As soon as that first part of the pull is done with, the rest of the trigger pull is smooth, as you say.

 

[Old Fuff]

That little half-moon part is called the "cylinder stop," and it is also worked by the trigger. Three things come to mind. The first, and most likely, is that some dirt and grit is causing the problem. The next is that the little spring that pushes on the cylinder stop is bent or mis-positioned. The last, and least likely is that the cylinder stop isn't correctly fitted where it engages the trigger. You need the services of a good gunsmith or armorer who knows they're way around a S&W revolver.

That said, I think the problem is likely a minor one, unless a former owner did a basement trigger pull job on it.

 

[Hacker15E]

Thanks for showing an auto guy the light, Fuff.

I think for now I'm going to pass on this one. It's not really a bad deal, it's just not one I'll kick myself later for passing up.

But....now that I'm a little less ignorant on the subject, I'll be better armed to find a really nice piece to add to my collection.

Thanks again!

 

[popeye]

Hacker15E...Different strokes yadda yadda.....But I prefer model 10 tapered or "pencil" barrels. I used to have quite a few. The only one left is a 10-7 RHKP that will stay with me till the end. To me the pencil is traditional. Butt.....thats just me.

 

[Old Fuff]

Hacker15E:

Do keep looking ...

The S&W Military & Police (later model 10) were made by the millions, and they aren't hard to find. I think when you find the "right"one you'll know it. These guns are often inexpensive (in the $200 to $300 dollar range) in next-to-new condition. They are fun to shoot, very accurate, and the ammunition is inexpensive. Of course you can only do three double-taps per cylinder load, but such is life ...

 

[Frenchy]

Model 10's are out there by the boat loads and the prices will be quite reasonable if you're patient. I gave $189.00 plus shipping for this 6 incher.