S&W Model 10 question

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Vica

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Hello from Sarasota, Fl.

There's a S&W, Model 10, nickel plated, 4", 1967, revolver that I have an opportunity to buy for only $200. It actually belonged to me about 4 months ago before I sold it to defer some of the cost of a new SP101, 357, 2.25 that I couldn't live without. Now I'm thinking that I'd like to have the model 10 back from the friend I sold it to. He said he'd have no problem selling it back.

I have a couple of questions. What are your thoughts about this particular hand gun. It's a 1967 with a little wear to the finish but otherwise in good shape. Is it even worth pulling back into my quiver? I know there's a gazillion of them out there.

My other question is on the action. My Sp101 has that transfer bar firing pin. The model 10's pin as you know is part of the hammer. Is that a detriment? How about safety? I'm guessing I would hang on to it as a collectible or as a night stand gun or just as some diversity at the range.

Should I buy it back for $200?
 
YES!
Anything that says S&W on it is worth more then $200.
A nickel Model 10 for dang sure!


As for safety?
Any modern S&W with a Model number is every bit as drop safe as any Ruger ever made with a transfer bar.

The S&W has a steel block rebound slide blocking the hammer from the bottom.
And a steel bar hammer block safety blocking it from the top.

You could pound the S&W hammer until it broke the spur off and you could not make it fire by accident without pulling the trigger first.

rc
 
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Buy it - it has more than mechanical value, it has sentimental value, owned by you and a good friend. Sometimes the worth of a firearm isn't in what dispassionate observers might assign to it. :)
 
No, don't buy it back; but you can tell your friend to pm me and we can work out something out.

I would buy that back in a heartbeat. Okay, maybe it would take a little longer than that... maybe three heartbeats.
 
I know there's a gazillion of them out there.
Click to expand...
There isn't all that many Nickel plated M10's out there, they are nowhere near as plentiful as Blue M10 revolvers. For only $200 I would be falling all over myself to buy it back.

When you come to your senses and get it back don't forget the pictures!
 
Hey guys, thanks so much for those replys in favor of buying it back. I just read your responses to my wive sitting across the room. Helped a bunch. I didn't tell you that she is part of the equation too. I asked her, "so what do ya think?" She said okay but I just need to keep selling my old stuff on Craig's list. Hoo ha! I keep telling her that range time is still cheaper than golf.
 
Another question about this model 10: Can it handle +P ?
 
Vica

Yes by all means buy it back, the sooner the better. That way I won't have to think about all the Model 10s that I owned years ago and foolishly sold or traded off (probably on the average for $200), when I was enticed over to the Dark Side (you know...semi-auto pistols).
 
Consider this to be a hint from a knowledgeable source: If someone sold me a S&W model 10 of 1960's vintage for $200 it's unlikely they'd ever see it again. :uhoh:
 
If I was offered that kind of deal I'd probably break my arm cause I reached for my wallet to fast. Hurry up and by that thing back, the S&W M10 has more going for it than most give it credit for and yes it will easily handle +P loads. I hate to even think about it as I'm a dyed in the wool .41 mag guy, but if I could only keep one handgun it would easily be my M10.

Here is some good reading on the S&W M10, hope you enjoy.

http://www.defensivecarry.com/forum...on/28377-s-w-model-10-revolver-long-haul.html

http://www.defensivecarry.com/forum...cs/107972-some-38-special-velocity-tests.html

http://www.defensivecarry.com/forum...cs/107972-some-38-special-velocity-tests.html

http://www.defensivecarry.com/forum/reloading/125541-four-high-performance-38-special-handloads.html
 
Plus-P ammunition use is a difficult question to answer because some of it is "more-plus," then others. At the time your revolver was made, Smith & Wesson said that those that had a model number stamped inside the yoke cut-out under the barrel (swing out the cylinder to see) were safe to use limited quantities of Plus-P ammunition.

Other then occasional cylinder end-shake (back & forth movement of the cylinder as opposed to rotational movement) I have only seen a few that must have been through a considerable quantity of hot loads and as a consequence were loosened up but not seriously damaged.

I personally see no good reason to accelerate wear & tear on an older revolver when it isn't necessary. My idea of a Plus-P .38 is called a .357 Magnum, and in a personal carry gun I seldom feel the need. Excluding defensive use I see no reason to use Plus-P ammunition at all.
 
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Well, I bought the S&W back today for $200 plus I paid $25 for the polish job my friend did.

As I look at this further I do not see the model #10 anywhere. I had assumed this because of what I had read. I tried my best to post photos but could not create an album to save my life.

On the side of the tapered 4" barrel it says: 38 S&W Special CTG
On the side plate (right) it says: Made in USA. Marcas Registradas Smith & Wesson Springfield, Mass.

The serial number is on the bottom of the handle C979635

Under the wood grip is another number on the frame 40208

Anyone know what this is? Is it a model 10?

I called S&W and they said it was a 1967.
 
One reason you may see nowadays Fuff, is that it is all you can find for love or money, and even when you can it's heavy on the money end and no love at all.
 
1967 is after the advent of the Smith "Dash numbering system" and is in 10-5 territory.

Open the cylinder and look on the part of the crane that is concealed when closed. If the 10-5 isn't there, did your friend polish very aggressively?
 
With further checking, very faintly it reads:
MOD
10-5
I can barely make out the 5 and the 10 is almost not there.
My friend didn't polish this part.
 
Unusual for this part of the gun to experience wear to the metal's surface. I personally wouldn't be TOO sure that it wasn't polished. You could have an example with a "light strike", but a strike that light is not in my experience.

This alone would convince me that it probably started life as a blue revolver and was refinished (and not exceptionally well) in nickel. For a shooter this would not bother me at all, and still a good deal for 2 bills, assuming good function. Perfect refinish or no, you get the bonus of corrosion resistance that the nickel was originally intended to provide. They do demand a different care regimine, corrosion resistance doesn't mean indestructable.
 
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There is a reason there are a blue million of them around. They are GREAT .38 spl. duty guns in the opinion of thousands of police agencies around the world and well informed private parties wanting a rugged, accurate and fairly refined duty or defense revolver.

P.S. They became the "standard" by which all revolvers of the type were judged.
 
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