S+W Model 37

[Jim PHL]

My apologies in advance for those who've read this on another forum.

I won't even get into what I had to go through but I finally have it in hand. Model 37-2 #BPL06xx. I have only recently discovered the difference between the older "j-small" and newer "J-magnum" S+W's. My magnum 640 was too big and heavy, IMO, but the slight differences to me are not so slight. I love my new pocket gun. It has a bobbbed hammer and will soon be wearing a pair of uncle mike's boot grips. I was deciding back and forth about the hammer. I bought it online and the seller offered to replace the bobbed with an original. I left it bobbed for two reasons: 1) this will primarily be a pocket gun. When mode of dress allows belt carry I usually will have an auto on board but when pocket carry is dictated, this little j will replace my P3AT. The second reason is that with my new wheelie jones in full swing, I expect to have an original model 36 or 60 on board before too long and that will wear an original hammer and original skinny wood stocks. Four quick questions:
1) Manufacture date? (The word "Airweight" does not appear on the frame or barrel.)
2) Occasional +P ok?
3) Bluing is nice but I am concerned everytime I handle this thing. How "fragile" of a finish is it, really? Does it need to be wiped down with an oiled rag every time it gets touched?
4) An occasional slight hangup when opening the cylinder. (As if the thumb latch needs to push the release a hair further than it is.) This gun does not appear to have been shot much. Will the 'nub' that protrudes from the elector star wear-in some or is this an indicator of a problem?

Thanks all,
Jim

 

[Jim PHL]

Bump back to the top for a little help?

 

[BluesBear]

Occasional +P use in a Model 37 will be OK.
A steady diet will wear the frame much faster.

Blueing is tougher than most people think. Take care of it and it will last a long time. You don't have to wipe the finish every time you touch it unless your hands are unusually acidic.
And on the 37 you only have to be concerned with the barrel and cylinder since the frame isn't blued, it's black annodized.

 

[Ala Dan]

My concerns have too do with the word "Airweight" NOT
appearing on the weapons barrel or frame? On 01-21-05 I also
picked up a very cherry S&W model 37-2 ( with a hammer) but
mine has the word Airweight on the barrel. So, what's up with
Jim's gun NOT having it on there? BTW, my S/N is BPF 6XXX.

 

[BluesBear]

S&W dropped the Airweight markings on the M37 barrel late 1993.

Ala Dan yours was made ~ November 1993. So you have one of the last ones that were marked.

Jim's Model 37 was made ~ December 1993/January 1994. His is one of the first that wasn't marked.


S&W is nortorious for overlapping features. I am sure it depends on which barrel was grabbed out of the bin for that particular gun on that particular day as to which markings it had.

 

[Ankeny]

I bought one of the new 37-2 "over runs" to replace (of all things) a P3AT. Mine is serial number CWF9####. It has +P right on the barrel and the shop I bought it from tells me those who don't know better assume +P is actually the recommended diet. I guess I could see that happening.

Anyhow, do any of you guys know the story behind the manufacture of so many of these guns? They are simply everywhere out here in huge numbers. Not uncommon for a distributor to have a couple of hundred of them in the back room.

 

[Jim PHL]

Blues, good to know that occasional +P's are ok. I took it out yesterday and it was a lot of fun to shoot with standard pressure rounds. I'll probably want to just end each shooting session with a cylinder or two of +P's and then carry it loaded with them.
The person I bought it from stated it hadn't been shot much. That could be true. The trigger could use a thousand or so more pulls, I guess, to smooth and lighten it. I'll be happy to do it. With a new set of smaller grips, this one's a keeper.

 

[Jim PHL]

Ankeny, problems w/ your P3AT or just wanting a switch. Just curious as this 37 will also be replacing a P3AT

 

[Ala Dan]

Hey Blues My Friend-

Many thanks for that good information, as I do appreciate it very much.
Unlike Jim, I don't plan on ever firing this weapon. If a J-frame .38 Spl is
too be carried, it will be my S&W old model 60. However, a S&W K-frame
2" nickel model 10 is also a possibility.

 

[Ankeny]

I had some problems with the P3AT. I could have sent it in, but I chose to swap it back to the dealer and let him deal with Keltec.

 

[Jim PHL]

Ankeny, my P3AT has been reliable but I still am not completely comfortable/cinfident in it for some reason. I still will carry it on the rare occasion that the 37 is still too big. I think If I could get a decent price or trade offer I would say goodbye to it.

Ala, I love stainless, the only guns I own that are not SS are this 37 and my Kel-Tec, and the "old" (.38) model 60 is on my want list. However, as stated, I think the new J's are just slightly too big and heavy. (Even though it's me that feels that way, I'm still surprised at how strongly I feel about a couple of ounces and a quarter-inch.) I probably would have "settled" for a modern 642 but for that danged 1/4" and the fact that I am not impressed with the finish on the frame of the 642/637.