Smith Model 37 airweight questions

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1KPerDay

1KPerDay

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tried a search but couldn't find what I was looking for...

I just got a nice 37. Got a couple questions:

1. I assume +P loads are discouraged... correct? Is an occasional diet of +P (for carry) okay?
2. Those who carry these... do you bob the hammer or can you pocket carry with the original spur? If not, does anyone sell 'bobbed' hammers or should I just bugger up the original? :uhoh:
3. the grip on these things is tiny... if I try a 3-fingered grip my first finger contacts the trigger about the middle of the second pad... if I move my grip down for a 2 fingered grip so the trigger reach feels right, there's a big hole above my middle finger on the grip. Anyone use t-grips or the like on these?
4. The (double action) trigger pull on this feels quite a bit heavier than on my model 10... I assume this is for a reason?

Thanks!:cool:
 
I would not shoot too many +p loads out of this. These are even lighter than the new Airweights, and you will REALLY feel it. In fact, I would discourage it, though a few will probably not hurt it.


I would not bob the hammer, but a gunsmith or S&W can do it for you.

There are all kinds of aftermarket grips for round or square butt J-Frames. If it is a square butt, they make the gun much larger. If it is a round butt, I suggest boot grips.

The spring is a coil spring, not a flat spring. All of my J-Frames have heavier springs than my Model 10.
 
Since they are not being made any more, they have become something of a classic. Many people trust them much more than the current S&W products. I wouldn't bob the hammer because of that and because I use single action some times.
A friend carries his with Speer 135 grain personal defense (sic) rounds that are +P. He shoots them occasionally with no visible harm but does most practice with normal pressure loads. Notably, we/ve found some s&B lead round nose loads , supposedly normal pressure that produce significantly higher velocities than other 158 RNL loads. what with suppliers appearing from time to time, its hard to predict exactly what you are getting.
 
Thanks guys... it's a round butt, and an older one (at least 30 years old I'd imagine... I'll post a serial number when I get home if I remember).

coil spring vs. flat spring, huh? Why'd they do that? No room for a proper sized flat spring in the grip?
 
Congratulations...it really is a classic.

I've dress mine up with stag grips which give excellent purchase. I run some 110's when I want to enjoy the range session, but generally stoke mine with 158's from Buffalo Bore.

Also, check your frame before and after each session for the infamous crack. It can show up at anytime, but it usually shows up early if at all.
 
where? above the forcing cone I assume?

Do the 158s (non +P I assume) expand pretty well at snubbie velocities? I guess if I were really concerned about reliable expansion and penetration, I probably wouldn't be considering packing a snubbie .38, huh... :D
 
I don't use my S&W model 37-2 as a carry piece, so I'm probably just
giving you my honest opinion as to the answers to some of your own
questions. #1- I would discourage constant use of +P or +P+ ammo
in any Airweight or AirLite S&W revolver. #2- NO- I don't bob hammers
on any of my otherwise "hammer type" revolvers~! ;) :D
 
airweight

I have one and keep it with standard loads.sometimes I carry with 38 hollow base wadcutters backwards.to much is made of +P.hit the right spot and your set to go I use single action as much as possible.my gun is very accurate and right on.more people were killed with 22s in past.and many carried 25 and 32s.I have a savage I carry in 32acp.:uhoh::rolleyes:
 
Well I got some buffalo bore non +P 158-grain LSWCHP at $1 a shot *eek* from Cabela's, and a desantis nemesis pocket holster. Been packing it for a few hours and IMO it still prints quite a bit in my jeans. With a long untucked shirt people probably wouldn't notice, but I still feel self-conscious. First time carrying and all that.

I guess you get used to it... I can't help feeling a flatter, thinner auto would work better as far as pocket carry goes.
 
1KPerDay - the crack that has appeared on some airweight revolvers over the years is in the aluminum frame under the forcing cone where the barrel passes through the frame. General opinion seems to be that this crack is caused on a few guns by the factory over-torquing the barrel during production. If your gun doesn't have one, it's probably not likely to develop one. I have had numerous airweight J-frames over the years and have only seen pictures of the crack, never the crack itself.
 
IMO it still prints quite a bit in my jeans. With a long untucked shirt people probably wouldn't notice, but I still feel self-conscious. First time carrying and all that.
Click to expand...
That DeSantis is a decent pocket holster for a j-frame; I wouldn't worry about too many people noticing your bulging jean pocket ... (if anyone notices anything, probably means you're too old to be wearing tight jeans).

Anyway, I'd picked up a NIB Model 37 (no dash) not long ago and finally took it out of the safe, figuring it was a gun meant to be carried and not intended for safe queen status. The 37 is far better looking that the new 637s and just plain has more class (lock and MIM issue aside). For heaven's sake, don't bob the hammer. Just put your thumb on the hammer spur when drawing from a pocket ...

The Buffalo Bore offerings for .38 snubbies are great loads. +P in any lightweight snubby, as noted, is not only overrrated, but ridiculously painful to practice with as well. There are also some decent 135 grain JHP rounds from the big-name ammo folks that seem to perform well.
 
Cool. I checked out the frame and there's no crack that I can see.. The DeSantis covers the hammer spur anyway. My jeans aren't tight, believe me. If anything I look like an elephant after a sauna. :D My only other concern about the holster (other than possibly printing) is that it came out of my pocket with the gun the first time I practiced drawing... I suppose that will occasionally happen with 'cheapish' pocket holsters.

What's a good source for 'boot grips'? I'd like some nice rosewood ones that fill the space behind the trigger guard if possible... I just can't get a comfy grip as-is.

Also I noticed the number stamped in the cylinder yoke is different from the serial number on the bottom of the grip... I assume that's abnormal?

There's also a diamond-shaped mark (proof mark?) on the yoke.

It just says Mod. 37 (no dash).

Can someone please look up when it was made? I'm just curious.
 
What's a good source for 'boot grips'? I'd like some nice rosewood ones that fill the space behind the trigger guard if possible... I just can't get a comfy grip as-is.
Click to expand...

I like the Ahrends j-frame grips offered byhttp://www.topgunsupply.com/
I also have some of the Spegel boot grips, which many believe are the finest quality out there, but they're somewhat pricier. Check out:
http://www.lightningarms.com/
Eagle Grips has some decent quality j-frame boot grips, and you can always go to the source (S&W's website) for other options.

As an aside, one of our members is making nice-looking pocket holsters for j-frames, check out the Accessories forum in Trading Post.

Can't help you w/production date of your 37 (mine is ser. #ADB12xx and to the best of my knowledge was made sometime after 1981), hopefully a member with a copy of the SCSW can look your s/n up ...
 
Thanks old dog :cool: Do the Ahrends grips leave the backstrap exposed like the stockers? I don't want them any thicker there than necessary.
 
1K, for pocket carry you don't want the grips longer than the frame, a little extra wood on the back often substantially improves your grip, especially if you have medium to large hands.

A "T" grip adapter may be your best option for carry. That is what I use.

While not nearly as elegant as wood, rubber boot grips are available in several versions from the usual suspects, one model from Pachmeyer lends itself very well to pocket carry. The rubber is stickier than wood, but so what? Your hand will be covering the grips when you draw. And they are inexpensive.
 
The way the gun sits in my pocket (at least in these pants) the grip is pretty near the top of the opening... I'm afraid any more material at the back of the grip will expose the gun to casual view. I'll look into the t-grips also... thanks for the advice.
 
1KPerDay asked
Do the Ahrends grips leave the backstrap exposed like the stockers?
Click to expand...
Yes.
Then asked
Also do you like checkered or smooth?
Click to expand...
I prefer smooth; the Ahrends boot grips have a finger groove and are pretty substantial, filling my good-sized hands. Spegel makes checkered j-frame grips; so does Eagle. The checking is good for gripping; certainly, wood stocks are much better for concealed carry (esp. pocket carry) applications as rubber tends to attract clinging fabric.
 
What's a good source for 'boot grips'? I'd like some nice rosewood ones that fill the space behind the trigger guard if possible... I just can't get a comfy grip as-is.

Also I noticed the number stamped in the cylinder yoke is different from the serial number on the bottom of the grip... I assume that's abnormal?

There's also a diamond-shaped mark (proof mark?) on the yoke.

It just says Mod. 37 (no dash).

Can someone please look up when it was made? I'm just curious.
Click to expand...

Hi,

I can't date it specifically, but you've got one from the mid-to-late '60s.


Does it have the old-fashioned "square" cylinder release latch, like my 1964 Model 36 no dash pictured below? I believe '66 was the last year for the square latch before going to the type most people associate with these guns.

Also, do your wood grips have a DIAMOND in the middle like mine, and serial numbered on their insides with the gun's serial number? That would mean pre-'67.

In any event, you can post this question on the S&W website link here and some of the experts who lurk there can tell you 'fer sure.


My M36 pictured below is the same gun as your M37, except the 36 has a steel frame instead of aluminum.

Hope this helps,

T.

2216018IMG2411.JPG



PS: If yours is a round butt like mine (vs. the square butt) you can use Uncle Mike's rubber "boot grips" on your M37 for comfort BUT . . . I'd go Tyler T-grip and keep the classic look AND great shooting comfort and control,

PPS: Here's another M36 owned by someone else with Elk Stag grips (by Patrick Grashorn), and the later cylinder release latch, WITH a Tyler T-grip. The T-grip truly makes a difference and keeps the gun looking classic too, for lots of cops used 'em . . . back in "the day." They are still being made too! NOTE: The lack of a pinned barrel dates this later vintage M36 as a post-'82 specimen. Your earlier M37 should have a pinned barrel too . . . and that's good!

Model36nickelstagadjshop750x.jpg
 
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