S & W Model 617 10 shot Revolver jamming

[stinger 327]

After going a few rounds the trigger will not turn the cylinder?
Is this caused by hot .22 LR loads like Stinger and Aguila?

 

[Grey Morel]

How many is a "few rounds"?

Can you be a bit more descriptive as to what is actually happening?

Could you show us a picture?

Do you ever clean your gun?

Is there a fragment stuck somewhere?

How old is your gun?

We need more if you want answers.

 

[stinger 327]

How many is a "few rounds"?

Can you be a bit more descriptive as to what is actually happening?

Could you show us a picture?

Do you ever clean your gun?

Is there a fragment stuck somewhere?

How old is your gun?

We need more if you want answers.

It is brand new, cleaned and I would say about after 30 or more rounds it starts to get difficult to pull the trigger to get the cylinder to move It will not turn to the next chamber single action or double action.

 

[earlthegoat2]

2 drops of oil between the firing pin and the cocked hammer. Cycle the action a few times to spread the oil around. Just something to try.

 

[Old Fuff]

After 30 rounds (or whatever) when the cylinder starts to hang up, eject all of the cartridges in the chambers and see if the problem continues. Then check back with your aswer.

 

[Smaug]

I have this problem every time I shoot 22 from a revolver. It seems to be dirt from the cartridges and lead shavings from the bullets that are jamming up the action.

If you shoot better ammo, for example plated Winchester Super-X or CCI MiniMag, this problem will be reduced. The junk ammo, like Remington Thunderbolt and Winchester Xpert really will dirty up the works pretty quickly. Autos last longer before they succumb, but the dirty ammo will jam them up too.

This is the reason I don't shoot my 22 revolver too much.

 

[osteodoc08]

A smith jamming. Say it ain't so, that's what Tauri do! Just kidding. Hope you get it fixed.

 

[stinger 327]

I have this problem every time I shoot 22 from a revolver. It seems to be dirt from the cartridges and lead shavings from the bullets that are jamming up the action.

If you shoot better ammo, for example plated Winchester Super-X or CCI MiniMag, this problem will be reduced. The junk ammo, like Remington Thunderbolt and Winchester Xpert really will dirty up the works pretty quickly. Autos last longer before they succumb, but the dirty ammo will jam them up too.

This is the reason I don't shoot my 22 revolver too much.

This sounds about right. I did notice these rounds left alot of residue and are dirty. The primary ammo I was shooting was Aguila and CCI Stinger.
I thought because maybe it heats up the cyclinder made it jam.

 

[351 WINCHESTER]

If you have a tight b/c gap I would suspect fouling and heat would cause the cylinder to drag on the barrel.

 

[stinger 327]

If you have a tight b/c gap I would suspect fouling and heat would cause the cylinder to drag on the barrel.

It gets so bad that the trigger will not move and the cylinder won't move neither. So then perhaps I may have to clean it while I shoot at the range? Bring a toothbrush to wipe away residue behind cylinder?

 

[788Ham]

Have you cleaned it and oiled as was mentioned earlier? Might be because its new, needs a little lubing!

 

[stinger 327]

Have you cleaned it and oiled as was mentioned earlier? Might be because its new, needs a little lubing!

It's cleaner now so I will give it another try. I thought it was because I was using the hotter rounds like Stinger and Aguila. When I first started to shoot I was shooting the standard Blazer lead points much lower power.

 

[PapaG]

I have had two Smith 63s and brother T has had a Smith 66. Both, and I repeat, both have started hanging up after about eighteen rounds. Both needed a fair cleaning, lubing and in one case, polishing of the cylinder rod to get back into action. My feeling is that the early smiths, and these are both early smith stainless guns, have a tendency to gall up after a small amount of shooting.
I've used every kind of lube, treatment, and magic to get these things to function for more than two or three cylinder fulls and am just resigned to a little drip of oil/clp every two or three loads.
Polishing of moving surfaces, using RIG stainless lube, using antisieze, and even the old Vietnam standby Drislide makes no difference.
My Taurus (ugh) tracker stainless goes boxes of rounds (17 hmr) without a problem. My 624, 686, and some ruger ss revolvers do the same.
Don't tell me it is the tighter tolerances of the smiths....I've compared them all and as a machinist know that that isn't the problem.
Actually....I don't need any advice on this...just venting. I'll keep shooting, enjoying and lubing and polishing till they haul me off to the great range in the sky. Love Smith, even when they suck in stainless.
My 27, 29, and others have no problems in this area.

 

[stinger 327]

I have had two Smith 63s and brother T has had a Smith 66. Both, and I repeat, both have started hanging up after about eighteen rounds. Both needed a fair cleaning, lubing and in one case, polishing of the cylinder rod to get back into action. My feeling is that the early smiths, and these are both early smith stainless guns, have a tendency to gall up after a small amount of shooting.
I've used every kind of lube, treatment, and magic to get these things to function for more than two or three cylinder fulls and am just resigned to a little drip of oil/clp every two or three loads.
Polishing of moving surfaces, using RIG stainless lube, using antisieze, and even the old Vietnam standby Drislide makes no difference.
My Taurus (ugh) tracker stainless goes boxes of rounds (17 hmr) without a problem. My 624, 686, and some ruger ss revolvers do the same.
Don't tell me it is the tighter tolerances of the smiths....I've compared them all and as a machinist know that that isn't the problem.
Actually....I don't need any advice on this...just venting. I'll keep shooting, enjoying and lubing and polishing till they haul me off to the great range in the sky. Love Smith, even when they suck in stainless.
My 27, 29, and others have no problems in this area.

Revolvers are suppose to be reliable especially Smith & Wesson at $675. Rim fire ammo is not the most reliable but I expect the revolver to be so if there is a misfire at least it will go to the next cyclinder and bullet to fire but if the whole cyclinder jams-NOT GOOD.
My Browning Buckmark has none of these problems and is actually more fun to shoot and easier to grip.

 

[Dstoerm]

Something is amiss... I have put alot of every type of crap, and quality, ammo through my 617, no problems.

You have said that it is new, so try this next time it fouls up:

-open the cylinder... does it bind at all when opening?

-eject spent catridges, press the ejector rod ALL the way towards the rear and examine the area under the 'star' shaped ejector, both under the ejector face and on the cylinder face, where the ejector fits.

(1) If there is 'crap' under the ejector, either on the ejector face or on the cylinder this will cause the ejector to be 'proud' of specs and can cause cylinder rotation to become troublesome.

(2) If your cylinder binds upon opening when empty then your ejector rod is not properly tightened and all sorts of things can go wrong. To tighthen the ejector rod you must screw it in 'left-tighty', opposite of normal screws. S&W revolvers do have a habit of walking the ejector rod loose and that is why I use a little Loc-Tite on all my S&W ejector rods.

(3) If neither of these conditions occur, then the next time it malfunctions try this: Remove all shells in the cylinder and then close the cylinder - does it rotate now? (If so, see # 1 and #2 above). BUT, if it doesn't rotate then do this: open the cylinder (empty) and then pull back on the cylinder release all the way (as if openiing the cylinder, although it should already be open). While holding the cylinder release full back , try to pull the trigger to operate in double action mode. Does the trigger now move corrrectly? If so, your revolver is out of time and MUST go back to S&W for a FREE repair.

Revolvers operate on correct timing of both cylinder, sear and trigger.


If this doesn't help, report back.

-D

 

[billybob44]

I KNOW it sounds silly--BUT..

Be sure to check the ejector rod, and make sure it is tight(Left hand thread)-do this with spent cases in the cyl. to avoid damage to the ejector star.
Take a brush/blow gun to the underside of the ejector star, to be sure no metal shavings/powder dirt between the star+cyl.
Use BreakFree CLP on all contact points of cyl.
Fire CCI Mini-Mags (2-300 rounds) through it+it probably will be good to go..Bill..

 

[788Ham]

Stinger, I'll probably get flamed for this......... get a small bottle of Gun Butter, it has a small needle on the tip end. Give the ejector rod ONE drop, one drop inside the cylinder also, then one drop down inside the trigger and firing pin area, then cycle it a few ties, see if this doesn't help. This stuff helped get my old Beretta 1935 going after many years of residing inside a holster. Good luck!

 

[stinger 327]

Something is amiss... I have put alot of every type of crap, and quality, ammo through my 617, no problems.

You have said that it is new, so try this next time it fouls up:

-open the cylinder... does it bind at all when opening?

-eject spent catridges, press the ejector rod ALL the way towards the rear and examine the area under the 'star' shaped ejector, both under the ejector face and on the cylinder face, where the ejector fits.

(1) If there is 'crap' under the ejector, either on the ejector face or on the cylinder this will cause the ejector to be 'proud' of specs and can cause cylinder rotation to become troublesome.

(2) If your cylinder binds upon opening when empty then your ejector rod is not properly tightened and all sorts of things can go wrong. To tighthen the ejector rod you must screw it in 'left-tighty', opposite of normal screws. S&W revolvers do have a habit of walking the ejector rod loose and that is why I use a little Loc-Tite on all my S&W ejector rods.

(3) If neither of these conditions occur, then the next time it malfunctions try this: Remove all shells in the cylinder and then close the cylinder - does it rotate now? (If so, see # 1 and #2 above). BUT, if it doesn't rotate then do this: open the cylinder (empty) and then pull back on the cylinder release all the way (as if openiing the cylinder, although it should already be open). While holding the cylinder release full back , try to pull the trigger to operate in double action mode. Does the trigger now move corrrectly? If so, your revolver is out of time and MUST go back to S&W for a FREE repair.

Revolvers operate on correct timing of both cylinder, sear and trigger.


If this doesn't help, report back.

-D

After I cleaned gun it appears #1 was present. I got lots of stuff that was on the outer rim of cyclinder where the end of the bullet hangs.
I will have to go out to range and try all of the above.

 

[Dstoerm]

Good luck - the 617 is an AMAZING firearm, but .22 ammunition can be very filthy. I prefer CCI, and Stingers are a great round.

I like to clear spent shells from my revolvers with the barrel always pointed UP so that any grime falls to the ground, not back into the cylinder. A good sharp blow of breath onto the ejector and cylinder in between reloads isn't just for western movies either.

Best,

-D

 

[stinger 327]

Good luck - the 617 is an AMAZING firearm, but .22 ammunition can be very filthy. I prefer CCI, and Stingers are a great round.

I like to clear spent shells from my revolvers with the barrel always pointed UP so that any grime falls to the ground, not back into the cylinder. A good sharp blow of breath onto the ejector and cylinder in between reloads isn't just for western movies either.

Best,

-D

The Stingers have nice clear shiny silver shells not of the brass type that stains. The Aguila brass isn't as shiny like the Stinger ammo.
The Segmented Stingers use gold brass.

 

[Dstoerm]

I like the Singers and CCI in general, and the Aguila rounds are good as well, but just a little dirtier in my experience.

Let us know haow the 617 works!

-D

 

[stinger 327]

I like the Singers and CCI in general, and the Aguila rounds are good as well, but just a little dirtier in my experience.

Let us know haow the 617 works!

-D

I agree with you as it seems the Aguila ammo is dirtier. I don't know how they come up with that 1,750 fps figure as well as how CCI Stinger comes up with the 1,645 fps figure.
Aguila has two types a hollow point and a solid point tip or flat nose at 1,750. I don't know if the sight adjustments will be different between the Aguila HP and solid points as they are both rated at 1,750 fps and 30 grains. The Stinger is a 32 grain bullet.

 

[Stainz]

Recall Murphy's Law? The two most insidious hangups I have had were caused by cleaning. On one, a piece of brass wire - from a bore or cylinder brush - was found wrapped around the ejector rod/star juncture. The other one was a cotton thread - from a cotton swipe - same place. I wear reading glasses when I clean now - and check that star junction as a final check. I started this over three years ago - before I ever bought my first S&W .22 revolver.

Odd thing about one's suggestions to others. At least three range-mates bought a new 4" 617 after shooting mine. Two of the three went back to S&W - one was traded upon it's return. I haven't seen the third fellow. Mine, new 9/08, has been fantastic. It handles everything - but 98% of it's shot ammo has been the WallyWorld Federal 36gr HP 550pk. It regularly goes 500+ rounds between cleanings. I reload with a DS-10 - turning the cylinder with my thumb pressing the cartridges home - before closing the cylinder. Never a hiccup - not in the 5" 63 (LNIB 8/09) or the 3" 63 (NIB 11/10), either. They have admittedly seen half a box of both Stingers and Velocitors between them.

I'll bet on the ejector rod/star juncture being fouled - or the LH threaded ejector rod loose. Remember - Murphy was an optimist!

Stainz

 

[robctwo]

When I bought my 4" 10 shot 617 I took it apart for a complete clean and polish and replaced the main spring and rebound spring.

I detail stripped the cylinder. There are those who say to leave it alone. I use a thick chamois cloth around the ejector rod knurl and a small plier to get a good grip and turn the rod Clock-wise to unscrew it. There are a couple springs, one inside, one outside to keep track of. I lay out the pieces left to right in line as I take them apart to keep it straight. Thorough cleaning and check for any burrs is easy.

Reassemble, lube and reinstall. I don't use locktite on my rods, just tighten with the same cloth and plier.

For regular cleaning I take the cylinder and yoke off of the frame, the cylinder out of the yoke, push the rod down on the bench and give the cylinder face under the star and the underside of the star a good scrubbing with the brush, then wipe clean with old t-shirt.

I like the Federal bulk ammo and get a box or two between cleanings with good performance.

 

[stinger 327]

Recall Murphy's Law? The two most insidious hangups I have had were caused by cleaning. On one, a piece of brass wire - from a bore or cylinder brush - was found wrapped around the ejector rod/star juncture. The other one was a cotton thread - from a cotton swipe - same place. I wear reading glasses when I clean now - and check that star junction as a final check. I started this over three years ago - before I ever bought my first S&W .22 revolver.

Odd thing about one's suggestions to others. At least three range-mates bought a new 4" 617 after shooting mine. Two of the three went back to S&W - one was traded upon it's return. I haven't seen the third fellow. Mine, new 9/08, has been fantastic. It handles everything - but 98% of it's shot ammo has been the WallyWorld Federal 36gr HP 550pk. It regularly goes 500+ rounds between cleanings. I reload with a DS-10 - turning the cylinder with my thumb pressing the cartridges home - before closing the cylinder. Never a hiccup - not in the 5" 63 (LNIB 8/09) or the 3" 63 (NIB 11/10), either. They have admittedly seen half a box of both Stingers and Velocitors between them.

I'll bet on the ejector rod/star juncture being fouled - or the LH threaded ejector rod loose. Remember - Murphy was an optimist!

Stainz

I thought this S & W Mod. 617 was suppose to shoot good right out of the box. I haven't heard of any problems before. I don't have any problems with the Browning Buckmark until it comes time to clean (break it down).
Well it's cleaned up and I will see how it shoots. I will start off with the lower velocity .22's blazers for sighting it in.