S&W Single Action Issue

[BaltimoreBoy]

I have a fairly new N frame S&W revolver that has developed a little tic.

It has a beautiful double action trigger – a real delight.

But it has somehow lost its ability to shoot single action.

It is difficult up to the point of impossibility to thumb back the hammer and have it 'catch' at the rear of its normal movement ready for single action fire.

If one does get it to catch, depressing the trigger causes the trigger (as well as the hammer) to snap strongly forward – not at all a normal return for a trigger.

Has anyone else experienced this?

(I am more experienced with Ruger, Colt, and Dan Wesson revolvers- this is my first Smith.)

What is my best course of action? Find a gunsmith, or call S&W customer service?

 

[ontarget]

I would personally call S&W before I paid a Smith out of pocket. Chances are they will take care of you. If not then think about a gunsmith.

 

[Sistema1927]

Back to the mothership. Call S&W.

 

[wagonburner]

Sounds like your trigger return spring is too soft. Did you swap out the oem spring for a lighter one?

 

[BaltimoreBoy]

Sounds like your trigger return spring is too soft. Did you swap out the oem spring for a lighter one?

Nope wagonburner, haven't touched it. It just stopped working.

 

[GooseGestapo]

Sounds like maybe the strain screw on the hammer spring has backed out.
Remove the grips and see if it has backed off.
If you bought it used, someone has backed it out to lighten the trigger pull.
Your statement about the good trigger pull is the give away... the strain screw is locktited from the factory.
They use red locktite, btw...

 

[straightshooterjake]

Sounds like maybe the strain screw on the hammer spring has backed out.
Remove the grips and see if it has backed off.
If you bought it used, someone has backed it out to lighten the trigger pull.
Your statement about the good trigger pull is the give away... the strain screw is locktited from the factory.
They use red locktite, btw...

I have never seen any locking compound on the strain screw of a factory stock S&W revolver. I have also never seen any indication that the factory uses red locktite at all. Red locktite creates a near permanent bond that can only be broken with heat.

The yoke screws on recent production revolvers do have a red compound on them to prevent the screw from backing out. I am not sure what the compound is, but it is not locktite. It seems to be a polymer like compound that causes some friction on the screws. The yoke screws are readily removable and replaceable, but the compound does help keep them in place once they are snugged down.

And regardless of what the factory uses, I will offer my general advice to keep red locktite away from the gunsmithing bench in almost all cases. It takes substantial heat to break the bond from red locktite. And if any of the compound migrates into a mechanism, it can be a huge challenge to remove.

Blue locktite is the right compound for most gunsmithing needs. It provides a firm bond, but it can be broken with mechanical pressure if necessary.

And regarding the OP's original question. If the gun is on warranty, then sending it to S&W is a reasonable response. If you have access to someone who knows revolvers, it could be worthwhile to have him pull the sideplate and inspect the springs and other internals. He might find something very simple and inexpensive. However, if you would have to pay someone to assess the revolver, then letting S&W do it for free on warranty might be the best value.

 

[GooseGestapo]

Locktite is a trade name. Red is a specific product.
Red thread locker,
there! I corrected it. I stand corrected, maybe...
But sometimes they use blue...

 

[J-Bar]

I would personally call S&W before I paid a Smith out of pocket. Chances are they will take care of you. If not then think about a gunsmith.

This.

If you must consult a non-factory gunsmith, make sure you get one with appropriate experience, and be prepared to pay accordingly. Shopping for the lowest price is probably not in your best interest.

 

[wagonburner]

Nope wagonburner, haven't touched it. It just stopped working.

You bought the gun new? I’m thinking the previous owner could have swapped it and not told you?

It’s not a fault I would expect from an out of the box gun that is new. I have had the same issue a couple of times when I took my trigger tuning too far. Going back a couple of lbs on the trigger return spring always fixed the problem.

If your spring rates are standard. You’re possibly going to need either a new hammer or trigger. The sear isn’t engaging properly.

 

[BaltimoreBoy]

Sounds like maybe the strain screw on the hammer spring has backed out.
Remove the grips and see if it has backed off.
If you bought it used, someone has backed it out to lighten the trigger pull.
Your statement about the good trigger pull is the give away... the strain screw is locktited from the factory.
They use red locktite, btw...

Thanks Goose.
This turned out to be the case.
When I took a turn on the set screw that was revealed on the front of the grip frame when I removed the grips, normal single action function was restored.
It was a new gun, but it did work in single action mode at least initially.
I had been doing a lot of double action dry fire practice and perhaps that caused the screw to work itself out a bit.
I saw no sign of any flavor of locktite or a locktite like substance on the screw which moves very easily.
I may put a dab of locktite blue on when I find the optimal adjustment.
Thanks everyone - I have learned a little bit about Smith's.

 

[straightshooterjake]

The strain screw is not an adjustment. The screw should be firmly tightened. If you want less tension on the mainspring, I would recommend buying a new screw, shortening it as needed, and then keeping it firmly tightened.

If you want to keep the screw loosened, but held in place with locktite, I only consider that acceptable if the gun is used solely for recreation. And in that case I might substitute an 8-32 socket set screw for the strain screw.

 

[BaltimoreBoy]

The strain screw is not an adjustment. The screw should be firmly tightened. If you want less tension on the mainspring, I would recommend buying a new screw, shortening it as needed, and then keeping it firmly tightened.

OK.
I'll buy that just based on the apparent effect of tightening the screw even slightly.
But, as far as I can see, single action function does not become perfect until the screw is tightened down.