S&W642 - I just removed my ILS lock. It was easy!

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I don't understand. Why don't guys that want a lock-less Smith simply buy an older used Smith.
True, the particular gun you want might not be readily available.....but you'll eventually find it. They're out there. It'll probably be a better investment anyway as well. Or, buy the lock Smith then sell it off when you find what you want.
I remember back in the '80's I was at a shooting range talking with a group of "Smith-guys" that frowned ...politely....upon my Model 29 silouhette because it was NOT pinned & recessed. (well, they frowned upon the looooong barrel too!)

Back then neither those guys or myself would have ever predicted what Smith is doing today. BUT....we might have predicted that by the 2000's they'd no longer be making guns.
Hell, lack of a pinned barrel & recessed cylinder is not even a much of a second thought today among most Smith fans. Although I won't buy a lock gun myself, I'm gonna chose NOT to knock it or put it down. You know why? Becuse I just thank God that Smith is still making quality revolvers despite the lock (and mim parts).

Russ
 
Here are the choices the way I see it:

1. Leave the lock in - small risk of lock up.
2. Remove only the flag - small risk of lock up.
3. Remove everything - small risk of lint, dirt, ect.. causing a lock up due to big ugly hole.
4. Sell the thing and buy a Ruger LCR.

What would you do?

You left out the fifth choice. Like Old Fuff said, grind down the nub on the flag and reinstall it. That's what I do. Nothing to fall out or get overly loose using that method.

Takes about 10 minutes from start to finish.
 
The problem with selling it and buying one without the lock is the money loss when I went to trade my 642 with the lock for one without I was going to be out 175.00. I know some would say that not much compare to life but the chance of reallly needing it in a SD situration is low. The odds of the lock engaging at that one time you need it is very low, not that it can't happen but chances are very low. I put my faith in God and my ability if these two things happen then God is just calling me home and if the weapon didn't have the lock to engage then all 5 rounds would have bad primers and not go off. Moral is when it your time it's your time.

be safe
 
if anyone doubts that the remaining parts can come loose following a flag removal just take out the flag, put the pistol back together, then take a small punch to the "lock cylinder" from outside and give it a gentle tap with a light hammer.

Then open her up, grind off the nub and reassemble the pistol with all of it's now modified parts.

Those youtube how-to gunwork tapes ought to be against the law maybe. Too many people take them as gospel.
 
If someone wants to go in this direction I would suggest a tight fit, in combination with a good adhesive.

But don't take this as a recommendation. :uhoh:

Sir,

Your points are well-taken. Adhesives don't get a lot of respect, but are probably an excellent solution. After all, a lot of modern machinery is increasingly glued (even aircraft, I believe).
Also, I hadn't thought too much of distortion from a press fit; was thinking of a mild size difference. Agree re: little depth for a tap. If the edges are enough to engage a thread, it might be all one needs in conjunction with an adhesive. Could even make a pseudo-rivet out of JB weld. :rolleyes:

Thanks for the non-recommendation. ;)

Best,
David
 
I tried to get a local gun parts manufacturer to design an oversized cylinder latch to hide the hole, but he wouldn't do it. Any CNC manufatuerers out there want to give it a shot? Might be big money in it.....
 
I'm too lazy to read through this whole thread, but if no one has mentioned it yet, S&W HAS recently released a run of 642 and 442 revolvers WITHOUT locks. I've seen a dozen of them at gun shows and dealers around here. A lot of times the dealer doesn't even notice they have something different. They are listed on the S&W website. "642 no-lock"
 
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