loose noose
Member
Sunray, I don't shoot that .222 for moa, however minute of coyote does the trick, out to 100 yards or so.
Savage 24 .223 over what gauge?
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HankR
Member
Sounds like a mission to me.
Had one in .22 and 12 gauge. It was more of a "garden gun" and 20 gauge would have been plenty/better.
Gordon
Member
I have a .223 over 20 3" 24V . I bought it new in mid 80s. I gave it to a son in mid 90s as I almost nev er used it, having many specialized guns. I recently got it back when his now ex wife filed the old restraining order that seems the usual thing to do in California so they can keep everything you own ect. 
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There are extraction issues with some military 5.56 ammo, and it did NOT like steel case stuff and they had to be cleaning rodded out. It was accurate enough tho and with the 2.5x scope on it . The gun is kinda heavy, a bit heavier than my Tikka Combination 12/,243 which has no issues really. For the price I would not buy one these days.
.There are extraction issues with some military 5.56 ammo, and it did NOT like steel case stuff and they had to be cleaning rodded out. It was accurate enough tho and with the 2.5x scope on it . The gun is kinda heavy, a bit heavier than my Tikka Combination 12/,243 which has no issues really. For the price I would not buy one these days.
They all break down the same way, but the Campers Model is a lot shorter & lighter.
Also, it comes with a special case that will hold the components, and can be tied to a backpack, etc.
I'd choose 12 gauge with the .223
it will handle any load the 20 can plus some the 20 can't meaning the gun can reliably take any game animal on this continent and within limits.
Heavier frame on the 12 means reduced felt recoil with 20 gauge type loads too.
it will handle any load the 20 can plus some the 20 can't meaning the gun can reliably take any game animal on this continent and within limits.
Heavier frame on the 12 means reduced felt recoil with 20 gauge type loads too.
BSA1
member
Although I have little use for the .223 for this gun I would also choose .223 and 12 ga. combination.
For a good marksman the .223 can kill a deer and hogs although with varmint control such as 'yotes. The fact it is also a military round is a big plus in my books.
The 12 gauge is far more versatile than the 20. There are light loads that are softer on recoil than 20's.
I see the use of this gun as a cabin/backwoods/truck gun. Simple, reliable and easy to use.
For a good marksman the .223 can kill a deer and hogs although with varmint control such as 'yotes. The fact it is also a military round is a big plus in my books.
The 12 gauge is far more versatile than the 20. There are light loads that are softer on recoil than 20's.
I see the use of this gun as a cabin/backwoods/truck gun. Simple, reliable and easy to use.
bannockburn
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I would probably go with the .223 with the 20 gauge. I have plenty of both in terms of ammunition and think it would do nicely as a versatile utility gun.
I'd go with the 20 gauge, mainly for weight issues. I have a .357 mag over 20 gauge that is amazingly accurate at 100 yards. IIRC had a 1.5" group with some handloads with a scope.
Anyone recommending the later 12 gauge savage model 24F (i.e. the synthetic stocked gun made long after the 24v) has likely never had to carry or shoot one. They are too heavy (about 1 lb extra over the 24v) and point like a fence post.
The 24v doesn't point that well either btw, but it is usable.
IMO, the only one to choose is the 20 gauge model 24v, if you can find one. The earliest ones seem to be a bit lighter. Put a 1.5 -4 power shotgun scope on one and you have an excellent all around gun. Especially in 30-30/20 gauge. A series B in this configuration comes in at about 7.5 lbs. The only catch is you can't have screw in chokes like the 24f had. The accuracy of my 24v is 3 shots into an inch at 100 yards. Good enough considering the 200 yard range involved.
You can find threads elsewhere on 12 gauge vs. 20. Unless you're into 3" magnum loadings in a 12 gauge, you can match any 12 gauge load with a 20 as far as payload and velocity.
Since it's basically a single shot, the cost of ammo disadvantage of the 20gauge isn't much of a factor.
The 24v doesn't point that well either btw, but it is usable.
IMO, the only one to choose is the 20 gauge model 24v, if you can find one. The earliest ones seem to be a bit lighter. Put a 1.5 -4 power shotgun scope on one and you have an excellent all around gun. Especially in 30-30/20 gauge. A series B in this configuration comes in at about 7.5 lbs. The only catch is you can't have screw in chokes like the 24f had. The accuracy of my 24v is 3 shots into an inch at 100 yards. Good enough considering the 200 yard range involved.
You can find threads elsewhere on 12 gauge vs. 20. Unless you're into 3" magnum loadings in a 12 gauge, you can match any 12 gauge load with a 20 as far as payload and velocity.
Since it's basically a single shot, the cost of ammo disadvantage of the 20gauge isn't much of a factor.
loose noose
Member
Incidentally mine is also scoped with see thru mounts, noted that only about the first two rounds of the .222 will hit point of aim, point of impact, with the 3rd round being a flier. I'm sure this is due to the pencil thin rifle barrel. But as far as the coyote is concerned I doubt he even cares.
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