Savage Vibrations and .25 MOA

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AZRickD

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I pulled double-duty yesterday at Ben Avery range zeroing a new (upgraded replacement) IOR-Valdada 2-5-10x42 illuminated scope (with Ken Farrell 20MOA base) and testing a new load (having just purchased 200 pieces of .308 Lapua brass, replacing some mixed first and second-hand Federal brass).

Background:

When I started this project, so many months ago, I began with the basic Savage 10FP rifle and (factory stock, later glass-bedded just to practice and a somewhat stout, unadjusted factory trigger), using Fed match ammo and got .67 to .75 MOA at 100 yards. I replaced the trigger with one from SharpShooterSupply, factory set at about 15 ounces (their choice, not mine), and found the accuracy improve to .5 to .67 MOA.

All this despite my rather lousy technique, short attention span, lack of patience, and other negative personal attributes

I worked up some loads running Varget powder with passable Winchester primers pushing a 168 grain Nosler J4 bullet with "weight-matched" Federal brass of partially known origin and got the accuracy to improve to solid .5 MOA. I later bought a Choate "Plaster Disaster," glass bedded it and found the consistancy improve (due, in part, to the club-like weight of the stock) marginally. BTW, 43.9 grains of Varget was my sweet-spot with 43.8 and 44.0 grains impacting in the same area with similar group size (I am using the "Total Charge" method of working up loads. Velocity was around 2,750fps.

I had a hunch that I could squeeze more out of the rifle, if not myself. So, I bought a whole bunch of reloading tools that I hoped would allow me to really understand the process of accurized reloading. Chamber measuring devices, OAL guage, primer pocket uniformer, neck-sizing die, the Lapua brass, etc. And decided to try maxing most of my 2.877-inch chamber by using a 2.860" over-all length cartridge (pretty conservative, I gather).

I worked up three rounds each at powder throws of 43.5 grains up to 44.4 grains in tenth-grain increments. Temperature was a pleasant 67 degrees so I expected less velocity than I had been getting my last few times shooting at 90+ degrees, and I had no idea what difference the Lapua cases would make when compared to the Federal cases I had been using.

43.5 grains got me 2730 fps out of my Beta Chrony yesterday (I always wonder if that darn thing is reading 100 fps or so high) and 2,790 fps at 44.4 grains. I got wavering chrony results near my target velocity of 2,750, but 43.9 to 44.0 hit the mark nicely. Hodgdon says Varget is consistant at varying temperatures. Well, here is two data points in Arizona confirming this.

Now to the results on paper.

The good news is that all groups were well under 1MOA *and* they all printed in the 7:30 position on paper within about 1.5 inches of point-of-aim. This POA thingy means, according to the "Total Charge" method of working up a load, that since all of these loads impact in the same sector of the paper, if I am off by one or two grains, I will still be hitting my target. Cool. BTW, this didn't happen with my other brass. I'm a little bit perplexed as this was not expected.

Shooting difficulties:

I made the mistake of trying a new rest for the first four sets of loads which flexed and put me higher off the shooting bench than would be optimal. These groups netted me .67 to .8 MOA. It was too unstable.

I went back to trusty sandbags and my groups tightened. But I noticed that I had developed an odd habit of flexing my butt support hand just as the trigger released. I would be on-target, feel the trigger go (I must be getting in tune with my rifle because I used to not be able to anticipate it).

Quite a few times I would begin to take a shot and just before it went bang (as if locktime stood still), I would see the crosshairs move from the center of the target to down and too the left. What I was doing (which I am unaware of doing before) is that as the trigger would release, I would squeeze my butt-support-hand. As I am left-handed, this would move the rear of the rifle to the right (and the muzzle to the left), while at the same time, it would move the butt up (and the muzzle down). Each time I shot I would say before I went to the spotting scope, "Welp, that one will be low and to the left." Each time I was correct.

The bummer is that each time I did this it was as if I rolled a perfect ball into a 4-10 split. One time I got two shots off before the break, went down to measure and found a .25-inch spread on the two shots, only to have me "flinch" the next shot, widening the group to .67, or so. Another time it was a .33 MOA two-shotter. One time I sqeezed on the second shot after I told myself not to squeeze my hand. The first and third shots were a little over .33 but the middle shot dropped the group left and low again.

I only had two groups where I managed not to squeeze the rear support hand. Those gave me .35 and .45 MOA groups.

Clearly my rifle is better than me, just yet. I'll catch up eventually. After all, I'll have much more practice just to develops come-ups out to 800 yards. Yep. It looks like I have a mighty fine rifle, however, the phrase, "casting pearls to swine" comes to mind right about now. ;)

Not Good Vibrations:

The other thing I noticed from the mid-loads on up was an odd vibration.

I would shoot the gun, get the recoil as usual, and before all was done, I would feel this "whuppata-whuppata" vibration at the front of the rifle. Dare I say a violent vibration?

What the heck was that?!? I thought something had come loose. I checked my actions screws. Tight. Scope / rings / base? Tight. Barrel? Tight. Keep in mind that this wobble began when I was achieving sub .5MOA groups.

Was that some sort of barrel whip I got from that heavy barrel?

Was the not-particularly-stiff plastic Choate stock vibrating on the forearm?

Back to the range next week.

Rick
 
the barrel is vibrating(and flexing)..they all do it as the bullet is traveling down the barrel.usually..its not noticable.could be a rifling issue..i dunno.
 
Did you have a bipod mounted?

I've noticed a number of my rifles "twang" with the bipod in place...
If you can't pass 2 3x5 cards together between the barrel and forestock back 'til about 2" in front of the action you might be getting vibration there. A dollar bill isn't thick enough:cuss:
Dunno anything about Choate stocks 'cept I think they're butt ugly...:uhoh:

Tom
 
i would say that the vibration you are detecting is the stock. i don't think you'd detect a barrel vibration, especially on a heavy barrel.

try altering your bench technique a little to minimize the effect of your anticipation. once you become fairly proficient w/ a rifle, you do know when the trigger breaks. you are now into the 'mental' stage of shooting. your concentration needs to improve some to really maximize the rifle. i know it is hard, but if everything is not perfect, back off the trigger. if you find yourself backing off a lot (or wishing you could've backed off), stop, grab a soda, and come back in a minute or two.

my bench technique... let the rests support the rifle. my trigger hand pulls the rifle into my shoulder and operates the trigger. my other hand is under the butt of the gun, thumb and forefinger 'steering', the rest of the fingers are in a fist. my non-trigger hand steers the gun left and right, nothing more. i position my rests to have the elevation i need. focus on the x-hairs and the target. if you are really focusing, you'll go into a 'zone' more or less, where the only thing you notice is your sight picture. nothing extraneous will (or should) come into play. get my breathing right, remain focused, and start the trigger squeeze. next thing i know, i am recovering from recoil, inspecting the spent brass, etc.

i get very nitpicky w/ my loads too. sort cases by number of firings, weight, neck run-out, and run-out at the bullet ogive. takes a lot of time, and i hate to waste these shots, so i make sure to concentrate when shooting my 'best' loads.

it sounds to me like you are doing well. just keep after it and continue to improve your concentration and you'll have that rifle performing at its (and your) peak. i've never shot a br competition, but after working on my rifles to extract top performance, i sure do have a healthy respect for the br guys powers of concentration.
 
I think you have it about right, Dakota. When I first got the trigger I was "surprised" every time it let off. Now I'm sensing something...and I swear to Gawd that the time the trigger goes and the gun goes boom is like a half-second in my mind -- enough time for me to think to myself, "Aw hell, I flinched and took the crosshairs off target...bang."

Practice, practice.

If the vibration is the stock (the low-frequency "whuppata-whuppata" versus what one would expect from hardened steel "zing"), then I'll have to get another stock. The SharpShooterSupply stock is supposed to be exceedingly rigid. I'll have to pony up the $225 one day, and lighten my rifle which is probably tipping the scales at about 13 pounds.

Swifter, you are correct about the Plaster Disaster being butt-ugly. $80 butt-ugly. I didn't have my Harris bi-pod installed at the time and was using sand bags. I have never heard this vibration before with the Choate stock. There is literally enough room to fit 20 playing cards between the barrel and the narrowest section (0.20"). The plastic Choate stock forearm is flexible enough to bend and touch the barrel (though not through shooting...I think).

I'm going to be taking some rifle courses in the spring. I'm sure George Dean of www.TacTrain.com can set me straight. He has both a Rem 700 in a MacMillan stock as well as a Savage in a Choate.

Thanks for the help.

Rick
 
I have the savage 10fp LE2 in .308 26" barrell. I put a Bell and carlson duramax stock on it, and use a harris bipod sometimes. There is a twang and vibration with the bipod, without it there is none.

I have to wonder about the statements on stiffness of freefloated rifle stocks and the amount of flex that is normal in the forearm.

Every freefloated rifle I have ever handled has this flex.

Remington 700 with macmillian ( factory model$900 in a local shop) I could flex the forearm so that it touched the barrel with 10 lbs of pressure, this is about the same as my Durramax. SIG SHR 970 rifle with walnut and bedding blocks was a little bit better. Many free floated rifles of various configurations at my club all had the same flex in the forearm.

Anschutz olympic model target rifle with 54 action and an aluminum stock was the only rifle that I have handled where there was really only a little flex. $3,000+ and it weighted a TON!!!!

So how stiff can you really get the forearm and still have a practical rifle that you can carry?????

How stiff does the forearm really have to be for excellent accuracy? My savage has turned in .5" 5 shot 100 yard groups, and it could do better If I was a better rifleman, or I had a rock solid rest (I dont).
 
I've got a .308 Savage 110FP in a Plaster Disaster...

Gonna bed it, real soon now... The thing just doesn't feel right when I shoot it, and really wasn't much of an improvement over the tupperware.

I think that the vibes come from the metal stuff in the stock not really fitting all that well. Plus the dang stock just won't work too well with sandbags.

I _really_ like my Sharpshooter Supply stock on my 6BR Savage...
 
Which Choate/Plaster stock are you refering to here? The Ultimate Varmint Stock or the Ultimate Sniper Stock?

I've got the later one fitted to a Remington Sendero in .300WM. I used Brownell's Steel Bed in the action area and filled in the fore-end up to where it widens and angles up.

I've been able to get groups in the 25MOA range at 100yds with this set-up.

At 600yds my groups range from 3.5" to 6.85" prone from a bipod.

A vibration you can feel sounds bad though. I've never noticed anything like that yet in any manualy operated rifles.
 
Mine is the green "PenUltimate Sniper" stock.

I have been thinking of continuing my expermentation by hacking the thing up (that's what $80 stocks are for). Partially for weight savings.

Bandsaw off the forearm where it begins to angle up and bolt another connection for the bipod on the flat portion of the stock just in front of that wickedly pointed knobby surface where your poor hands are supposed to be.

I can lose another pound by getting rid of that steel plate in the buttstock which is used to afix all the other buttpad extenders too.

Or I can quit the exersize and get the SSS stock. Probably the one on the top of this page: http://www.savageshooters.com/sharpshooters/CustomStocks.html

Now that I think about it, that "whuppata-whuppata" noise could have been my brain rattling.

Rick
 
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