Savage vs. Ruger

[Matthew T.]

I have an accurate Savage Model 10 with some feeding problems. A Ruger M77m2 in .257 Roberts looks pretty good right now.

• I really want a .257 Roberts for the classic cool and versatility factors and Ruger is the only company making them
• Ruger has controlled round feed vs. Savage's push feed
• Ruger's trigger isn't as nice as the Savage Accu-Trigger but it seems tolerable

My questions are:

• How is the Model 77's accuracy compared to Savage's?
• Is the Ruger stock free-floated?

Thanks in advance

 

[rockstar.esq]

The Ruger is not free floated to the best of my knowledge. There are some target/ varmint rifles they make with heavy barrels laminated stocks which are free floated however they do not have enviable triggers. Bond makes a replacement as to others all of which are drop in. I'm curious what the feeding problems are with your Savage model 10. I have one that won't eject snap caps worth a hoot however it'll jettison empty brass or loaded ammo with aplomb.

As for the accuracy question, I can only say that Savage rifles are heralded for their accuracy whereas Ruger's are hearlded for their durability. That being said, I'd have to guess that you're looking for significantly better than one MOA accuracy, which I believe is hard to get with a Ruger.

 

[Matthew T.]

My feeding problems are intermittent. Sometimes everything works just fine. Other times a round will pop out of the magazine before it slides into the chamber or it will bottom out on the receiver just below the chamber. (The gun is a .243, BTW.) I followed some advice on savageshooters.net and squeezed the top of the magazine a little with vice grips in an effort to move the feed lips closer together. No improvement. This was after the problem was supposedly fixed at the factory when I sent it in on another issue. Savage is sending me a new follower, as soon as they get some more back in stock.

The feeding problem reminds of a similar problem I was having with my Glock 19, which was due to a faulty follower design. Savage told me they hadn't changed their follower design lately, though.

I would be happy with 1 MOA accuracy. That is about what my Savage gives me, but I'm still working up loads.

 

[Bigfoot]

IIRC that's usually a magazine spring problem. I read about it a while back but I don't remember who it was that had the better designed springs for sale. SharpShootersSupply probably.

 

[bgold]

SSS can set you up, or wait for Savage, as from what I have heard, they should be getting some soon.

I have a MKII and a 12FV, and would choose the Savage easily. It took a lot of work and money to get the Ruger to shoot as well as it now does. The Savage is shooting 1/4" groups without a lot of work on a load.

The Ruger needs a new trigger (I prefer Timney) to shoot accurately, while the Accutrigger works very well for a factory trigger. It may seem tolerable, but wait until you get to the bench-yikes!

Ruger's standard sporter weight barrels are not floated, but do tend to like a pinch point toward the end of the forestock. Mine have not, and are sitting in Bell and Carlson stocks, free floated. I prefer the Savage stocks as well, over the Ruger, as my large hands are not comfortable on the small grip. The B&C is a bit better. The old tang safety Rugers are very comfortable for me, though.

 

[Matthew T.]

I finally got through to Fred at Sharpshooters Supply. I explained the problem and he thought it sounded like the feed lips needed to be bent in a little. He told me how to pop the magazine out, so I'll try and gently tweak the lips tonight.

Fred also said Savage was going to start using a coil magazine spring instead of a leaf spring like what's in my Model 10. I'll wait on the new assembly from Savage and see what effect that has after I mess with the feed lips.

 

[Matthew T.]

I couldn't get the magazine out, despite my best efforts. The Savage push-feed design is garbage. I regret buying this thing.

 

[Bigfoot]

Standard way is to put in in a vice and hit the front of the magazine, use a piece of wood and a hammer. It should pop out.

I use a chisel or a large screwdriver and pry against the cut in the reciever and pull at the same time.

I'll buy it if you hate it that much.