Saving for an additional bird gun: 12 or 20

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Jason_W

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Rght now, I have two 870s in 20ga, a Benelli Nova tactical in 12 ga, and an old single shot .410.

One of the 870s is my wife's deer gun and has a saddle scope mount installed. I'd prefer not to pull the scope mount off for bird season only to have to put it back on for deer season. My other 870 is an old basic model that my wife has kind of adopted as her bird gun. The .410, while it served me well as a kid, is a bit limiting.

So, I'm squirreling away what I can for another bird gun. I'm undecided as to whether to get a 12 ga or a 20 ga.

Grouse hunting in Northern New England (when you don't have a dog) means you will likely shoot mostly grounded birds. If you're surprised by a flush in the thick stuff, the bird has a major advantage. You also tend to do a lot of walking, so the inherently lighter nature of the 20 is a plus.

I'd like to hunt ducks, but there doesn't seem to be an awful lot of geese around here. Is a 12 that big of an advantage over a 20 when jump shooting mallards out of a marsh?
 
Ammo choices in a 16 are thin, especially for waterfowl.

If your jump shooting means hitting ducks within 30 yards, a 20 works fine, especially with something other than factory issue steel shot.

I used Hevi Shot in mine last year and it stones them, if you can handle the cost AND within that range. 35 would be the far outer limit.

I initially felt a bit guilty pulling the triggger on that expensive stuff, but when you compare it to the other costs-gas, licence, on-road meals etc. that you're spending anyway, the ammo is really a small part.

If you say 10-15 shells per day, and figure out the other costs, it looks a lot more reasonable.

And bad ammo, if it loses you birds, means you spent the rest of the money so you could take a walk in the marsh and come home empty.

Also depends on the mix of grouse vs ducks you plan.

If it's 75 / 25 % for the grouse, a light 20 with 2 3/4" shells and no more than 7/8 oz. shot would be my choice-but the light gun will kick a bit with heavier duck loads.

But in your area, you're probably dressed heavier for the ducks anyway, so the hunting coat provides some extra padding.
 
I prefer the British Approach, a light 12 gauge with light to medium loads.
They break it down to things like 1 1/16 oz, which calls for a 6 lb 10 oz gun by the old formula of gun weight = 100 x shot charge.
A friend's Benelli Ultralight 12 at 6 lbs is reasonably comfortable with autoloading action to spread out the recoil.
 
Have you considered just converting the Nova to a hunting gun?

I’ve seen some of the Nova Tactical guns with the rear sight mounted on the receiver and some with it mounted on the barrel. If it’s on the barrel just get a longer barrel for the Nova and swap them back and forth. I believe the receiver, stock and forearm pump are identical between the field and tactical models and the barrel is the only real difference.

If the sight is on the receiver I can see where you wouldn’t want to remove it every time you change configurations; but even then it should be possible.

It would likely be cheaper than buying a whole new gun.
 
Browning Maxus

Forget the camo and wood versions and take a look at the Maxus either 26 or 28" barrel in black. Weighs under 7lbs. Makes a nice all purpose bird gun and it can also be used for clay games. You can use for Upland and for ducks. I have and used for Sporting clays and skeet until I got a Maxus Sporting as a gift.

Another excellent choice is the Mossberg 930 though it is significantly heavier which makes it a load to carry for upland birds.
 
Have you considered just converting the Nova to a hunting gun?

I’ve seen some of the Nova Tactical guns with the rear sight mounted on the receiver and some with it mounted on the barrel. If it’s on the barrel just get a longer barrel for the Nova and swap them back and forth. I believe the receiver, stock and forearm pump are identical between the field and tactical models and the barrel is the only real difference.

If the sight is on the receiver I can see where you wouldn’t want to remove it every time you change configurations; but even then it should be possible.

It would likely be cheaper than buying a whole new gun.

A Nova's Barrel is the cost of the gun. New, they run close to $400. I could get a decent used shotgun for that much.
 
I would say don't get in a hurry and shop a good bit. I found a great little Stoeger Supreme SXS that came with 20 ga and 28 ga barrels for about $350 shipped on gunbroker. Haven't tried it on upland game yet but it does great on the clays. I would shop around for a O/U or SXS for birds, some great finds are out there especially in fixed choke guns. Fixed chokes aren't nearly the handicap some would have you think they are.
 
I would say don't get in a hurry and shop a good bit. I found a great little Stoeger Supreme SXS that came with 20 ga and 28 ga barrels for about $350 shipped on gunbroker. Haven't tried it on upland game yet but it does great on the clays. I would shop around for a O/U or SXS for birds, some great finds are out there especially in fixed choke guns. Fixed chokes aren't nearly the handicap some would have you think they are.

Yeah, I'm going to take my time and shop around. I have until October 1.
 
Jason_W said:
A Nova's Barrel is the cost of the gun. New, they run close to $400. I could get a decent used shotgun for that much.
That's just absurd - but true - I looked it up and sure enough.

I found a 12ga, 26" Nova's for $379. A seperate 26", 12ga barrel for the Nova was priced at $400 - on the same website!
 
If you're surprised by a flush in the thick stuff, the bird has a major advantage.

The grouse always has the major advantage.
With modern loads being what they are, you can probably find everything that you need in 20 gauge.

Pete
 
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Look around for a good sxs with fixed chokes as previously stated. Using a sxs is like a new world in hunting. Just a lot of fun to use.
 
For a walking around gun ,just for targets of opportunity, A single shot such as the H&R shotguns may be just what you need. They now have models with changeable chokes. And carrying some different shells for game you may incounter is no problem with a single shot. They are reasonabely priced, sturdy ,easy to care for,and easy to modify to meet your individual needs. A 20 ga would probably meet all your needs.
 
I'd like to hunt ducks, but there doesn't seem to be an awful lot of geese around here. Is a 12 that big of an advantage over a 20 when jump shooting mallards out of a marsh?





If you ever wanna hunt ducks, GET A TWELVE! 3" 20 comes in steel shot, but I've yet to find any that patterns worth a toot, not even close to my 12s. You need that big case to fire 3 fasteel on ducks. I'm a duck hunter, trust me on this.

I use a 10 gauge for goose hunting for the same reason, patterns T sheel better'n 12 gauge 3.5". One can shoot hevi shot, but that stuff is for rich people of which I ain't. 10 guage is high, too, but I have a MEC loader for it which makes it reasonable and I don't hunt geese as often as ducks, anyhow, though that might change. :D

And, PS, forget the "old SxS" for waterfowl, not up to steel shot. I retired one from waterfowling when steel shot got mandated and got me a Mossberg pump. For waterfowl, the pumps rule, but semi autos are quite nice as they reduce recoil of those heavy steel shot loads. My old SxS used to kick the snot out of me with 3" lead BB magnum loads goose hunting. It wasn't much better with 2 3/4" 4 high brass on ducks. I don't really miss it. :D The 10 rocks me pretty good, but a 9 lb 10 is better than a 6.5 lb 12 on MY shoulder.
 
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You can find 12's that weigh 7lb lbs or less that point and carry very well. 20's can be lighter, but much below 7 lbs and I don't shoot them as well. By choosing your loads you can always shoot light recoiling 12 guage loads that will duplicate 20 guage recoil and performance. I've found I can make a 12 do anything a 20 will do. But not the other way around.
 
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