SBR 300 BLK quandry

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bikemutt

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I fired up a new 10.5" SBR AR15 chambered for 300 BLK Friday. After break-in with a muzzle brake and supersonic ammo I switched to American Eagle 220 grain subsonic and verified MOA accuracy at 100 yards. I removed the brake and installed a YHM 30 cal suppressor. Once I got more or less back on paper the rifle would not do better than 5-6 MOA at 100 yards. The gas block is adjustable and was appropriately adjusted for the suppressor. I've inspected the suppressor's bore and see no evidence of baffle strikes.

Having never seen this before I figured it couldn't hurt to run it by the experts here at THR.
 
A hair brained idea, but suppressors do provide a slight velocity boost. I don't know if it could just barely put it into the trans-sonic spectrum which can be detrimental to accuracy.
 
Barrel harmonics? I have a rifle that shoots .75 all day at 100 yards, the second I put a suppressor on it starts grouping 1.5"+, then I put the same suppressor on another rifle that is just as accurate and not change in group sizes, just poi.
 
So far I'm liking 300 BLK. I have both the SBR mentioned in this thread and a Rem 700 5R bolt rifle. The bolt rifle shoots anything I run through it with MOA accuracy, suppressed and not, to that degree it bests my 7.62x39 rifles. However, I can't overlook the fact that 7.62x39 is cheaper than 300 BLK ammo.

I'm about to start reloading and inherited a bunch of reloading parts for 300 BLK. My hope is to be able to fine tune loads and save money.
 
Redefined, i have three AR's and a AAC Handi rifle in Blackout, love loading and shooting the cartridge. I load supersonic and usually 125 gr or 150 gr bullets ( my favorite plinking load uses pulled GI 147 gr bullets that are cheap when you can find them) and shoot them like my .223 AR's. The Handi Rifle is a really neat package, I took a 350# Texas boar with one shot...125 gr Sierra TNT and a truck load off smaller hogs.
 
Good info guys. I had read this the other day. Any thoughts on the article? http://www.alloutdoor.com/2014/05/22/300-aac-blackout/
The article hits some good points but ignores the widespread availability of adjustable gas blocks. I know it's not super convenient to start with but I determine how many clicks from zero each type of ammo needs to reliably cycle the action. Then simply dial the block in and shoot.

I've tried AR15 uppers with pre-set adjustable blocks and those generally work better than non-adjustable blocks but I've grown to really like the fully click-adjustable ones.
 
Does the suppressor direct thread onto the barrel or is there a quick detach muzzle device?

I have a QD YHM 5.56 suppressor. When I first got it had the guys at the store I bought it from install the muzzle device. After that the rifle was not as accurate as it was before. I went to a true AR armorer professional who fixed it. The original guys had used the original crush washer from my barrel when it had the A2 flash hider. Crush washers are no good for suppressor mounts. He used actual shims and rockset to reinstall my QD muzzle device. After that the accuracy problems went away.
 
The article hits some good points but ignores the widespread availability of adjustable gas blocks. I know it's not super convenient to start with but I determine how many clicks from zero each type of ammo needs to reliably cycle the action. Then simply dial the block in and shoot.

I've tried AR15 uppers with pre-set adjustable blocks and those generally work better than non-adjustable blocks but I've grown to really like the fully click-adjustable ones.
Does this mean you have to 'dial in' each upper kind of like a scope? I've never done so, that would be a learning curve for me.

Thanks for all the responses and sorry to kinda thread jack. I'm in the process of setting up a Trust and trying to figure out what my first purchase for it will be. On the rifle side I'll be doing an SBR + suppressor so just researching what my best options are.
 
Does this mean you have to 'dial in' each upper kind of like a scope? I've never done so, that would be a learning curve for me.

Thanks for all the responses and sorry to kinda thread jack. I'm in the process of setting up a Trust and trying to figure out what my first purchase for it will be. On the rifle side I'll be doing an SBR + suppressor so just researching what my best options are.
Yes, you dial in each upper.

The block I like is made by SLR Rifleworks. They are very easy to service, and use a detent-based click mechanism to set the gas flow. They work with standard AR15/AR10 gas tubes.

Syrac Ordinance sells a similar one which I've tried, the only drawback when I tried it was it required a straight gas tube, something of a unicorn to find.

Noveske sells the Switchblock which my gunsmith really likes but I tend to prefer low profile blocks that hide under the handguard.

There are also variants which locate the adjustment hex screw on the side; that's a nice feature if a hole in the handguard just happens to line up with the screw.

Then there are the continuously-variable units. Those had problems with the setting wanting to creep as the gun is fired. Most of those now have a second screw that acts like a jam nut preventing the adjustment screw from moving, or they recommend using loctite.

For me, the SLR Rifleworks adjustable blocks have all the features I want and none of the drawbacks I don't. I'm not affiliated with SLR other than as a satisfied customer.
 
Does this mean you have to 'dial in' each upper kind of like a scope? I've never done so, that would be a learning curve for me.

Thanks for all the responses and sorry to kinda thread jack. I'm in the process of setting up a Trust and trying to figure out what my first purchase for it will be. On the rifle side I'll be doing an SBR + suppressor so just researching what my best options are.
Word of advice. Buy the best suppressor you can. You'll have it forever. While my YHM 5.56 can hasnt let me down it is a pig. Its the same size and weighs the same as my brother in laws AAC .30 caliber can. I was originally going to buy an AAC but got the YHM because I got a great deal on it. I regret that decision.
 
Does the suppressor direct thread onto the barrel or is there a quick detach muzzle device?

I have a QD YHM 5.56 suppressor. When I first got it had the guys at the store I bought it from install the muzzle device. After that the rifle was not as accurate as it was before. I went to a true AR armorer professional who fixed it. The original guys had used the original crush washer from my barrel when it had the A2 flash hider. Crush washers are no good for suppressor mounts. He used actual shims and rockset to reinstall my QD muzzle device. After that the accuracy problems went away.
Funny you should ask; my suppressor is also a YHM Phanton Ti QD.

I have given up "permanently" installing the QD mounts as I found there was asymmetrical carbon buildup on the crowns of some of my rifles which ultimately lead to worsening accuracy. I now use the flash hider QD mount, screw the suppressor onto it, screw the assembly onto the muzzle and hand tighten, no crush washer. I do this with all my rifles and have no problems with accuracy. Could I have misaligned something with this barrel? Sure. I plan to take it back out later this week and refocus on making sure everything is right.
 
Word of advice. Buy the best suppressor you can. You'll have it forever. While my YHM 5.56 can hasnt let me down it is a pig. Its the same size and weighs the same as my brother in laws AAC .30 caliber can. I was originally going to buy an AAC but got the YHM because I got a great deal on it. I regret that decision.
Excellent advice!
 
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