school me in ar-15 rails

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myFRAGisFUBAR

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Alright everyone I need some help. I recently picked up my first ar15 (sig m400). I'm looking to add a troy rail system but I'm lost as to what to order. I have a 16" barrel I believe but want a 13" rail system or so. In the picture below the red line marks about where I want the rail to end. This also meens I have to remove the front sight on this gun and have no clue to where to start. Am I looking at a free float rail? Also is it easier to have a smith install? Any and all help or advice is welcome.

IMG_20130818_195702.jpg
 
You will need a free float rail because you want to go out further than your front sight. You will also need a low profile gas block to replace the sight.

They are not hard to install, and you tube is full of videos how to install various ones. You will need a couple of tools to do so. Which ones can depend on which rail you pick. I have done three different ones (Hogue, YHM, MI), so it can't be too hard.
 

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Walkalong said:
You will need a free float rail because you want to go out further than your front sight. You will also need a low profile gas block to replace the sight.

They are not hard to install, and you tube is full of videos how to install various ones. You will need a couple of tools to do so. Which ones can depend on which rail you pick. I have done three different ones (Hogue, YHM, MI), so it can't be too hard.
Click to expand...
I assume I need to get the same gas block as the make of the rail, in my case troy? Thanks again for the help. Also I have heard I need to remove the barrel in order to replace the d ring with the free float system. Is that true as well? I have never done any headspace work on a gun is why I ask.
 
I would leave the FSB pinned on. I would cut it down, sand it smooth and paint it. The pinned FSBs are very good gas blocks. The barrel is already drilled for it. So, cut it and leave it.

Here are some examples: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/619668_Cut_down_my_FSB__need_more_trimming_.html

Yes you need a free float. There are several good manufacturers, that make great free float (not many 13"). See this chart: https://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=pwswheghNQsFnUZMkZNF2DQ&output=html

The rail maker and gas block maker don't need to match.

Edit: there are rails made with cut outs for your front sight. Daniel Defense and Centurion.
 
As it was the brand the OP was originally interested in, I'll throw out there that Troy also makes a front site compatible rail. A few, actually. Here are a couple options, check their website for others:

http://troyind.com/ /rail-systemsac...6-rails/drop-in-rails/troy-battlerail-charlie

http://troyind.com/ /rail-systemsaccessories/rails/ar15m16-rails/drop-in-rails/troy-battlerail-delta

That being said, if you don't use one of the extended rails mentioned above by multiple posters that work with the existing front site, you'll have to install a free float foreend (tube or quad rail). As has already been said (but I like the sound of my own voice) to do so, you'll need to go with a low profile site base. You can either replace the gas block with a low profile one or (again, as has been said), cut the existing site down into a low profile block.

Or, you could build a second upper just the way you want it and keep the original factory one the way it is- after all, two is one and one is none.
 
Thanks for all of the help with the suggestions. All of the rails listed are nice, but I am looking to have a complete top rail. I am looking to either remove or grind the FSB down. Something about that smooth top just looks much more appealing. :D
 
Forgot about the newer style ones like those which let you use the front sight with a longer rail.......or was it the cheapskate in me. :)
 
Plus one on what GoTigers said. Just make sure you don't hack it up with a coarse saw, use a fine toothed blade or better yet a cut off wheel. (You don't want to loosen the pins with a bunch of vibration)
Or if you go with gas block option, any low profile should work, just make sure it's steel. Yankee Hill's are $23. Aluminum gas blocks have the tendency to melt.
 
The Centurion linked above, with the front sight base cutout, is a good option. Quality rail, very easy to install. I have one on an AR...it isn't as long as what you are looking for...but it is a very nice rail. And is of course free floated.

I support the advice to cut down the FSB if you want a longer rail with a clean installation and not a FSB cutout design. The original FSB makes a very good gas block, I see no compelling reason to completely remove it.
 
After some further reading I think I am going with an 11 inch troy bravo rail. Now before I do anything I might regret, I just want to run this past everyone one more time. I can grind down my fbs rather than buying a low profile block. Next, because this mounts to my original barrel nut, I can cut off my delta ring and remove the springs to attach the FF rail. After that, the rail will slide over my gas block hiding it and boom I'm all done. No smith or fancy stuff required.

If I need to alter this process in any way feel free to tell me how. Also do I need to remove the block to cut it or can it stay attached to my barrel. Thanks again for the help.:D
 
There are several youtube videos of that being done. Watch one or two. As long as you're confident with a dremel, why not.
 
i'm not positive, but that may not fit considering you have the bayo lug and sling stud on the bottom of your fsb. most rails designed around keeping the fsb have cutouts for those. you may be able to grind those off as well though.
 
The bottom of the FSB has to be shaved as well. The FSB will be a gas block only after it is shaved. Look at the pics in the link in my first reply.
 
I did the exact thing to mine before I replaced the barrel - shaved the FSB and used the 13" Troy Alpha rail. Never had any issues. Yes, you have to shave top and bottom.

I have a Troy low-profile gas block on a new barrel underneath the same handguard, now. Just make sure you turn it the right direction when you put it on. (Don't ask me how I know this.)

E.T.A., you don't have to cut off the D-ring. If you have a torque wrench and a good barrel wrench, you can take it off and keep/sell it. Spend a little money on a decent barrel wrench, though. It'll save you some heartache in the end.
 
InkEd said:
You can do all that stuff or just some pic rail to your Magpul handguard
Click to expand...

No, not really.

For starters he clearly wants a rail that goes well beyond the FSB. No Magpul MOE handguard does that.

Additionally, we're talking about free float rails here. The Magpul MOE handguard is not free floated.

There is a significant difference between a Magpul handguard and what is being discussed in this thread.
 
In my opinion there are a lot of good rails. I'm not a fan of the Midwest stuff for their design but they have excellent customer service when I returned the rail. For my money the Troy Alpha rail is the best!! Easy to install, has anti-rotation tab and rock solid!! Daniel Defense is nice stuff but is there any extra advantage to their rails?? Not that I can find...........
 
Please dude go in YouTube and google removing the front sight block. Its so easy to do and a low profile block from MidwayUSA can be had for about $30 bucks. You might want that from sight again someday to build a new upper with a more traditional look or for a different caliber.
 
I have a Troy on my .308 and a Midwest Industries SS Gen 2 on my 5.56. I like them both a lot. The main difference is the MI is a lot narrower than the Troy. Just depends on what you like I guess. I don't really have a preference between the two. I went with MI on the 5.56 because the Troy didn't come in the proper lengths for using it with a front sight gas block on the AR-15, while it does for the LR-308. That isn't really an issue for you though, since you're going with a low profile gas block and presumably putting the front sight on the handguard. I would recommend either the MI-SS Gen 2 12" or the Troy Alpha 13".

Here is what the 12" SS gen 2 looks like on my rifle. Mine has a 20" barrel, so if you used the 12" on yours, the muzzle would be about where my front sight base ends, plus the length of your flash hider. The Troy 13" is of course another inch longer.

image_zpsebe90c92.jpg
 
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