ive got a budget so im going with the leupold mark 4 it will be for long range hunting and some serious range time im not to familiar with click values is there a in between .25 moa and 1 moa i dont want harsh clicks like 1 moa i want to be more accurate but i also dont want to have to dial in so many clicks to reach out to a grand if needed. One more question if a scope does not have a zero stop can you dial your scope down to where it wont go anymore all the way to the bottom i guess? and remember your zero and count clicks back up to reach that? because if not how do you keep track... sorry for the newb questions im just not that familiar with it... thanks guys!
scope click values
- Thread starter chriso
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Strongbad
Member
I've seen some with 1/2" clicks, but honestly 1/4 is what you want. Burris has a scope or two with 1" clicks, but the scope is built for "minute of center mass" accuracy. Most of my big Burris' have 1/8" and the difference between the 1/4" and 1/8" is totally unrealized. 1/4" is where it's at.
If you're going to be shooting at 1000 and beyond, you also might need a canted scope base and a 30mm scope (more adjustment). Basically, just do some math and make sure that you're going to have enough adjustment to reach out to 1000 yards. It takes more than you think.
Any good target scope worth it's salt will have knobs that you can zero, and hard stops at the end of the adjustment range. So don't worry about that.
Hope that helps.
If you're going to be shooting at 1000 and beyond, you also might need a canted scope base and a 30mm scope (more adjustment). Basically, just do some math and make sure that you're going to have enough adjustment to reach out to 1000 yards. It takes more than you think.
Any good target scope worth it's salt will have knobs that you can zero, and hard stops at the end of the adjustment range. So don't worry about that.Hope that helps.
correction not 15 1/4
how are leupold with the canted reticles i heard bad stuff but dont they also have a life time warranty? and do the scopes come with knob covers or are they always exposed i dont want to bump somthing and take it off my zero.
how are leupold with the canted reticles i heard bad stuff but dont they also have a life time warranty? and do the scopes come with knob covers or are they always exposed i dont want to bump somthing and take it off my zero.
pioneer461
Member
Call or submit e-form to customer service.
1-800-LEUPOLD (538-7653)
http://www.leupold.com/corporate/contact-us/service-support-u-s-/
1-800-LEUPOLD (538-7653)
http://www.leupold.com/corporate/contact-us/service-support-u-s-/
I'm a former Leupold employee and know many of the service techs. They will tell you exactly what you need to know, and if you wish, perhaps upgrade your scope with tactical or target turrets.
Strongbad
Member
Leupold builds a good scope. Hard to go wrong with them. You can check the Leupold website, but all of the 3.5-10 Mk V's that I saw at quick glance had exposed knobs. You can zero the knobs, so that if you bump them, you just turn them back, but I know what you mean. My personal preference is definitely going to be for the 1/4". You're definitely going to get more precision that way. Think of it this way. If it has 1/4" clicks, every click will equal 2.5" at 1000 yards. If it has 1/2" clicks, then it's 5" at 1000 yards. Depending on the size of the target you're shooting, 5" might not be desireable. If you were target shooting and you were 2" high, you'd never be able to get on target, since 1 click in elevation would put you 3" low. If you only needed to get within 5" (i.e. center mass on a person) you're good to go.
If you only needed to get within 5" (i.e. center mass on a person) you're good to go.dmazur
Member
Just $0.02 worth here -
The difference between 1/4 in clicks or 1/2 in clicks is correctly described as "the 1/4 in clicks will give you more precision than 1/2 in clicks". You are adjusting the apparent position of the reticle. The finer the adjustment, the closer you can get to the correct position for a given range.
Accuracy is how far off your point of impact is from your point of aim. This is dependent on rifle, uniformity of ammunition, and how well you "doped" both wind and range when you dialed in the scope for windage and drop.
The canted scope base that was referenced is a scope base with a built-in "tilt", to handle a scope with limited range of internal adjustment. Typical value for a canted base would be 20MOA. (And in use, if your drop tables showed you needed 50MOA for a certain range, the scope would be set for 30MOA, as the base always adds 20MOA...) As 30mm scope tubes are larger in diameter than 1" scope tubes, they commonly have a larger range of adjustment. Some can handle 1000yd shooting with a .308, say, without a canted base.
I'm not sure what a canted reticle is.
The difference between 1/4 in clicks or 1/2 in clicks is correctly described as "the 1/4 in clicks will give you more precision than 1/2 in clicks". You are adjusting the apparent position of the reticle. The finer the adjustment, the closer you can get to the correct position for a given range.
Accuracy is how far off your point of impact is from your point of aim. This is dependent on rifle, uniformity of ammunition, and how well you "doped" both wind and range when you dialed in the scope for windage and drop.
The canted scope base that was referenced is a scope base with a built-in "tilt", to handle a scope with limited range of internal adjustment. Typical value for a canted base would be 20MOA. (And in use, if your drop tables showed you needed 50MOA for a certain range, the scope would be set for 30MOA, as the base always adds 20MOA...) As 30mm scope tubes are larger in diameter than 1" scope tubes, they commonly have a larger range of adjustment. Some can handle 1000yd shooting with a .308, say, without a canted base.
I'm not sure what a canted reticle is.
dmazur
Member
I meant, as an aid to long-range shooting. (I didn't even consider the other meaning of "canted", but you're right. That is used to describe a reticle that is something other than square to the action.)
Sunray
Member
"...count clicks back up to reach that..." Not like the sights on an M1 rifle. Move the adjusting screws on a scope and you'll have to re-sight the scope. Likely using a bore sighter. Some people will mark the dial with a wee dab of paint though. You'd still have to check the scope for zero when you get wherever you go hunting.
dmazur
Member
Not to argue, but some "high end" scopes are repeatable in their settings. Target shooters rely on this to "dial their shots" for certain (usually known) ranges, which are usually off the field of view without adjusting the scope.
For closer ranges, so-called "ballistic reticles" are a popular way of handling bullet drop without adjusting the scope.
One of the costs associated with true long-range shooting is a scope that can "shoot a box" consistently. (That is shoot a group at 100 yds, adjust down 16 clicks, shoot a group, left 16, shoot, up 16, shoot, right 16, shoot. Your final group should be on top of your first group if your scope is repeatable. I understand this is called "shooting a box".)
Lower-cost scopes only have to hold a zero, have good optics and be waterproof. ( You'd think this would be enough, but if it isn't repeatable, target shooters aren't interested.)
For closer ranges, so-called "ballistic reticles" are a popular way of handling bullet drop without adjusting the scope.
One of the costs associated with true long-range shooting is a scope that can "shoot a box" consistently. (That is shoot a group at 100 yds, adjust down 16 clicks, shoot a group, left 16, shoot, up 16, shoot, right 16, shoot. Your final group should be on top of your first group if your scope is repeatable. I understand this is called "shooting a box".)
Lower-cost scopes only have to hold a zero, have good optics and be waterproof. (
You'd think this would be enough, but if it isn't repeatable, target shooters aren't interested.)
Fatelvis
Member
On Sniper'sHide.com there was a guy selling home made "washers" that you put under the turrets that work well as zero stops. I bought a set for my NXS, and they work great. I did a quick search, and this is all I found there.....http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=393006&Searchpage=5&Main=35360&Words=zero+stop&Search=true#Post393006
zero stop would be great but not totally necessary im just wondering that if i dial my scope all the way back both nobs at zero basically if i remembered how many clicks it takes me to reach my zero at 100 yards perfect conditions if i can do that...???
skinewmexico
Member
If I can't crank a scope up to be on target at 600, and then count my clicks back down to my 100 yard zero, and be zeroed, that is a POS scope that I don't need. The elevation knob is there to be used. And 10x isn't much power for long range, unless you're just trying to get hits on man sized targets.
CDignition
Member
US Optics EREK Knob is the only way to go.. One turn from 100 to 1000 yards(1/2 MOA). There is no better turret around.
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