Scope Ring & Mount help

[TexasTea]

I just bought a set of Millet ring and mount for my Rem 700 30-06. I have the following questions that I hope the experts on the forum can help.

1- Does Millet make good ring and mount? This is for my Leupole scope. Should I spend another 25 bucks to get the Leupole ring & mount?
2. How tight is tight enough when you tighten the screws on the ring and the mount?
3. Should I put locktite or something like that on the screw?

Thank you for the info. Any warning for the first time gun owner on mounting the scope would be appreciate.

 

[ocabj]

I just bought a set of Millet ring and mount for my Rem 700 30-06. I have the following questions that I hope the experts on the forum can help.

1- Does Millet make good ring and mount? This is for my Leupole scope. Should I spend another 25 bucks to get the Leupole ring & mount?
2. How tight is tight enough when you tighten the screws on the ring and the mount?
3. Should I put locktite or something like that on the screw?

Thank you for the info. Any warning for the first time gun owner on mounting the scope would be appreciate.

1. I don't know about the Millet. The Leupold mounts are ok, but aren't the greatest.

2. The base to receiver screws depends. I think 25 in lbs is the norm. The ring screws should be around 10-12.5 in lbs. Rings to base vary. On weaver and picatinny rings, I've secured the rings to the base using between 45-55 in lbs depending on the manufacturers' specs.

3. You can use loctite on the base to receiver screws. No where else should you use loctite. Blue only, not red. If you use a torque wrench, the use of loctite is moot.

 

[Red_SC]

I have a couple of sets of Millett rings. They're decent, and replaced a broken part with not hassle. I don't like the fact that the clamp broke under normal tension. For a cheap but strong solution, look at the Leupold PRW rings. They're pretty good, and only $35.
http://www.riflescopes.com/products/LEU54150/leupold_prw_1_rings.htm


If you have a torque wrench, 20-25 in/lbs for the base. NOT FT/LBS! If you don't have torque wrench, tighten it as tight as you can holding the short end of the L shaped allen/torx wrench, and then use the long side to turn it 1/8 turn more. Use the same pressure for the ring cap screws, and a little more for the screws that hold the ring on.

I put blue loctite on all of my screws. Don't use red- I had to use a soldering iron and a saw to get off a base that a PO had installed with red loctite.

 

[TexasTea]

Thank for the info. I installed the scope. The problem is the rear sight on the Rem 700 ADL synthetic is on the way. It sits higher than the lower rim on the front of the scope. I think the Leu 3.5x10 40mm scope is too big for this gun. So I had to move the scope back behind the rear sight.

Do I have to remove the rear sight?
Does it get in the way and block the view out of the scope?
How far can I move the scope back?

Sorry for asking all the dumb questions. But this is my first time installing any scope on a rifle.

Thank for you help.

 

[dakotasin]

in order your questions were seen by me...

1- no, millet isn't anything i would use. no, you should not use leupold mounts - they are good, and fine for the money, but for the same money, get ahold of some talleys.

2- when you hold the short end of the torx wrench in your hand, tighten until you can't anymore. if you hold the long end in your hand, you'll get a lot of leverage, and may be able to break a screwhead.

3- loctite the bases if you must. i don't, but some do...

4- you should pull the rear sight. it is easy to do, looks better, and there's no good reason to keep it on.

5- it usually gets in the way by not letting the scope sit in the rings.

6- as far as you want to until the objective bell gets to the rings. however, that isn't the way to mount a scope. http://www.baitshopboyz.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5347&PN=1 <-- lots of good info here.

for fore and aft adjustment, set the scope to the middle of its power range, and adjust until the eye relief is right.

 

[TexasTea]

Thank for the info.

I thought the cheap laser sighting is pretty good, just a quick line up before the range. At least you can expect to hit the target when you start out. I am going to the range and try it out this weekend, knowing now that I am much more equipped with the knowledge from the group here.

 

[dakotasin]

a good way to just get on paper is to pull the bolt and look down the bore while the gun is sitting in a cradle. line the bore up on something 20-30 yards away (i use the star on my wife's chrysler at the end of the driveway). then twist the knobs on the scope until the x-hair is looking at the same spot as the bore. this will get you on paper at 25-ish yards.

shoot at 25 yards, and get the rifle close to dead on, then back it off to 100, and set it where you want at 100 (1-2" high is a good start), then back off to whatever range you want to be zeroed at, shoot and adjust until the bullets are striking in the center of your target and you're done. everything left to do is just practice. it is a good idea to move the target in 50-100 yards and see where the impact is, and move it back 50-100 yards, and note impact. this will also provide you w/ valuable info regarding trajectory, grouping ability at range, and hold over/under.

good luck!