Scoping a sporterized Eddystone M1917

[masakari]

I'm looking at getting this Eddystone M1917 .30-06 rifle which has already been sporterized. Whoever did the conversion added small pieces of weaver rail to the receiver for the scope mounting points.
I'm looking to chop the barrel to 16"-20" and mount some quality glass (Trijicon Accupoint most likely) and I want to know my options as far as rings and bases.
Do you guys have suggestions on what would be most solid and secure? Would the already mounted weaver rails be good enough, or should I look into swapping those for something better, if it exists?
looking forward to your thoughts and ideas.
Thanks!

 

[jrmiddleton425]

If that were my rifle, I'd keep the barrel as is. That rifle is almost 100 years old, and still more accurate than you can shoot it.

Put some mid-price Nikon or Leupold glass on it. Take it out and shoot it.

 

[rcmodel]

The weaver scope bases are correct for the rifle.
Just buy a pair of Weaver rings and put a scope on it of your choice.

A good 2-7x variable would be hard to beat.

And don't cut the barrel any shorter the 20" -22".

Nothing to be gained going shorter except more muzzle blast, lower velocity, and a poorly balanced rifle.

rc

 

[Malamute]

Excellent advice so far. I have nothing to add, other than its a decent old sporter, and could use a new recoil pad, like a Pachmayr Decelerator.

That action is the origins of Remington sporting bolt actions. They made the military guns in WWI, then made sporter versions after the war for some time, the model 30-something I believe. I really like the safety on them, very positive, easy to use, and locks the action when on.

 

[Garrobo]

Why would

you cut the barrel? Unless you plan to use a very fast powder you'll end up with a flame thrower that is a lot less accurate than the issued rifle.

 

[AJumbo]

Those old '17s like heavier bullets, in my limited experience. I think the service load used a 180 gr. projectile, maybe 200 gr. If yours is fond of heavier pills, leave the barrel alone so you can take advantage of slower powders.

 

[Malamute]

The service load was 150 gr bullet.

 

[MJD]

Excellent advice so far.

-keep the base
-2-7 or 3.5-10 would be excellent
-don't cut the barrel
-150 and 165 grain will keep 3 inch groups at 200 yards in my sporterized 1917. No need to jump up to the heavier stuff unless you're going bear or elk hunting, in my opinion.

 

[masakari]

I'm looking for a short, quick handling brush rifle, so the barrel is definitely getting cut. But my main focus right now is scoping it.

 

[Ohen Cepel]

I would scope it as is. Many times I have gotten into real messes on projects like that by trying to "improve" things and only eating up a lot of time and money. Screws could be loc-tited in or striped in place so taking those Weavers off could end up being an ordeal I wouldn't get into if it was solid now. Little gain I can see messing with what you have now.

So, scope it and see how it does. Brush gun I would think about a fixed power 4 Leupold.

 

[bannockburn]

masakari

I would pretty much do as others have already suggested: replace the recoil pad, use the existing scope bases, get a decent 2-7X or 3-9X scope, and if you really feel the need for a shorter barrel, keep it to around 22 inches. Let us know how it turns out once you get the work done.

 

[Gordon]

don't chop a 30-06 barrel below about 19"
You can replace the Weaver pieces directly with Warne Maxi steel equivalents and have the best possible system . I put a 1.5-6x (picture that shows earlier Weaver 2.5x) on my 30-06 30S Remington Express, which is a more elegant version of yours.
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[Liberty1776]

Don't cut the barrel.... do what you want, it's your gun. But man this would be a mistake.

 

[Art Eatman]

My first-ever cemterfire was a 1917, back in 1950. Weaver mounts, Weaver scope. Did just fine. Removed the "unsightliness" from the end of the barrel, but no further shortening. Waste of '06 capability.

Messed around with handloading, from 00 Buck to 220-grain lead. Reasonably accurate with all sorts of bullet weights, but best with 110-grain and 150-grain.

 

[CB900F]

Masakari;

I can't tell from the two photos you provided, but that may not be the original barrel to the rifle. If it is, it should have the flaming bomb ordnance symbol on top, just in front of the receiver. If that symbol isn't there, then either it got machined off (unlikely), or it's an aftermarket barrel. In which case, the thing to do is to first determine exactly what you do have before making modifications to it.

Determine both the cartridge and the rate of twist. If you were to chop a high quality aftermarket barrel that's been engineered for a particular bullet, ie. twist rate, you may wind up with something totally unuseable. Have the gun inspected by a good gunsmith, you may be surprised at what you've got.

900F

 

[Coyote3855]

My Dad killed a lot of elk and deer with his sporterized 1917. I agree it's your gun and you should do what floats your boat. If it were mine, I'd put a decent scope on it and see what I had before I went to the hacksaw.