Searching for a good first handgun

[Manco]

I've gone through this process myself recently and learned a lot by renting as many different handguns as I could. I eventually ended up with a Smith & Wesson M&P40 because it fit my hand the nicest, is light but manages recoil well for its weight, seems rather robust and reliable, and I like how it looks, too. Be sure to try one out if possible, but go with whatever you are most comfortable with when actually shooting (also take reputation into consideration).

If you need something that hits harder for handgun hunting, then consider a 10mm Glock, .357 Magnum revolver (e.g. S&W 686, Ruger GP100), or .44 Magnum revolver.

.22LR is also a great caliber to have in a handgun, being fun and relatively cheap to shoot. In a pinch, it can do just about anything that any other handgun can do (unless you're hunting grizzlies!). However, I haven't had good experiences with .22LR semiautos, which tend to be picky about what ammo they work reliably with, so I'll probably get a .22LR revolver eventually. Your mileage and those of others may vary.

 

[memphisjim]

glock 19 and glock 30 or 29
get both for under 1200

 

[Enachos]

Have you looked into Glocks? I think for a first time shooter a glock 19 would be a great purchase... even a Springfield XD. Both are solid pistols. Good luck on your choice!!!

 

[Paints]

I agree with a .22 for starting out. And then a 9mm. Hopefully, starting out you will shoot a lot and enjoy it. .22 and 9mm are the least expensive ammo.

Revolvers are very good except the ammo is expensive.

A 9mm is a good, all around caliber, especially if you want to shoot a lot and want something more than a .22. There are many good 9mm guns out there. You can pick up a used 9mm at a decent price. My favorites would be a Sig Sauer (226, 228, 229, 239) or a CZ 75b.

A used Ruger Mk II (.22) is an excellent gun, just make sure to read the manual for reassembly after cleaning.

 

[Ed Harris]

Which Is Best As One Handgun for Non-Hobbyist? ________________________________________
(This article is a rework of one I first wrote in 1993.
I provided some updates, but the essentials haven’t changed very much.)

The Versatile .38 Special (and .357)

Casual shooters, who are NOT handgun enthusiasts, frequently ask what ONE handgun they should buy for home defense and sport. They don't want a "collection," but ONE handgun to serve multiple needs in a family where shooting is not a hobby activity. They would never use a handgun for big game hunting, but would carry it on fishing, camping or hunting trips, use it for informal target shooting, and depend on it, if ever needed, for home or personal defense.

The requirements are safety, reliability, durability, accuracy, and modest cost of gun and ammunition. Also important is suitability for use by the "female significant other." These parameters haven't changed since Smith & Wesson first introduced its famed Military and Police Model in 1903. Julian S. Hatcher said, in the Textbook of Pistols and Revolvers (1935),"Were it necessary for the average shooter to own and use but one revolver, it should be a .38 Special." This is still true today. The late Elmer Keith, who favored large guns and powerful loads, said in his book Sixguns (1955), of the .38 Special, when loaded with the semi-wadcutter bullet he made famous, as "the best to be had for hunting small game with the sixgun," high praise indeed from Keith.

The .38 Special still makes sense, because, modern ammunuition options make it better than ever. Sound used .38 Special revolvers are still reasonably priced compared to modern combat autopistols. Ammunition is still common, is produced in great enough volume that it remains relatively inexpensive and it available everywhere.

The .38 Special is the one of the most accurate handgun cartridges ever developed. Ten-shot groups fired from industrial test barrels or 5-shot ones from quality target revolvers are frequently 1-1/2" or less at 50 yards. The very best service-grade revolvers produce will groups of this order at 25 yards.

Factory .38 Special loads available today provide greater variety than for any other handgun cartridge. Hand loading provides even more flexibility for those who do. The .38 Special is generally deemed the minimum revolver cartridge suitable for personal protection.

While the .38 Special is no longer the duty gun of choice for police or military use, it enjoys great popularity in states where civilian concealed carry is permitted. While it is true that small, pocket revolvers are now available chambered for the .357 Magnum, using .38 Special ammunition in small concealable revolvers which weigh less than 20 ozs. makes more sense for a variety of reasons.

While a .22 rim-fire is most often chosen as the outdoorsman's kit gun, the owner of “one handgun” can use the .38 Special for this purpose, and find it more effective than a rimfire. When outdoor trips are short, few rounds are needed. In snake country I carry a Speer shotload first-up, with the rest of the rounds in the cylinder being +P semi-wadcutter hollowpoints, such as the Winchester X38SPD, Federal's 38G or the Remington R38S12, aka "The FBI load." Three Bianchi speed strips fit into into an A.G. Russell belt pouch, tabs up, without loooking like an ammo pouch, printing any "speedloader bulge" or rattling on your belt, in your coat pocket or day pack. For longer trips or if I plan any serious plinking, I'll pack an extra box or two of wadcutters.

The non-enthusiast seeking "one handgun" should select a steel- frame, “police-service-type,” double-action .38 Special with either a 3" or 4" barrel. A .357 Magnum revolver of these general specifications is also OK, because a .357 can use any .38 Special ammunition. Revolvers designed for magnum ammunition are more durably constructed, and won’t loosen up with frequent use of .38 Special +P loads. In states where concealed carry is legal a used 4” service revolver will usually be as much as $100 cheaper than a 2” snubbie of similar model and condition and a .38 Special as much as $50 cheaper than a similar .357 model.

For field use a gun having adjustable sights is a plus. A 4” barrel is easier to shoot accurate and is still easily concealed in a proper holster. For most purposes you will want an inside-waistband type with reinforced opening which permits one-handed re-holstering such as El Paso Saddlery's C-Force.

“Snubbies” are most popular today as carry guns. But do not buy a snubby unless you are willing to practice with it A LOT. I often carry one myself, but they do lose some ballistic performance and are MUCH more difficult to learn to shoot well. While snubbies have advantages in the close-quarter backup role, they require frequent practice to maintain proficiency. Remember that for our scenario here we are talking about ONE gun for the non-hobby shooter...

Wadcutters are ideal for most general use including field shooting. They are accurate, give a good knockdown blow on small game, and don't destroy much meat.. They are a valid choice for defense carry in "airweight" or alloy-frame guns which cannot handle +P ammunition. Novices should use wadcutters until able to six shots DA at ten yards into a 6 inch group reliably. After developing some skill, experiment with heavier +P loads, in guns suitable for them, to become accustomed to their additional recoil. +P ammo is not for casual shooting, but for serious defense carry against two or four-legged varmints when more power is needed.

The .38 Special +P with proper ammunition is fully adequate for personal defense. The Winchester X38SPD, Federal 38G and Remington R38S12 158-gr. all-lead hollowpoints provide stopping power equal to .45 ACP hardball. This represents the upper limit of power the average person can handle.

In light alloy frames the most effective non+P load is the Winchester 110-gr. Silvertip HP. It is the only load which I have found which expand reliably from a 2" barrel. Recoil is mild, like shooting a wadcutter, so this load is easily managed by the female significant other who is recoil-shy. In my experience the 125-gr. jacketed HP loads require a 4" barrel for normal performance, but the major-brand name, Federal, Winchester, Remington and Speer factory +P "personal protection loads," such as Hydrashok, Silvertip, Golden Sabre and Gold Dot excell from those.

Ten years ago the market was flooded with police turn-in .38 Specials in good condition which you could get for under $200. These days you must shop around to find a used revolver which isn’t worn out and you can expect to pay $300 or more for a used S&W Model 10 and $400 or more for a used Ruger SP101. If you don’t know revolvers take someone with you to shop who is. You do not want to buy into a "gunsmithing project," because you can easily invest more in fixing up a used revolver than it is worth.

In new guns look at the Ruger GP100 or SP101. In used guns the S&W Model 36 or Model 60 Chief's Special, with 3" heavy barrel, and the older K-frame Models 10 and 13 heavy barrel, or the stainless Model 64 in 3" round butt, or 4" square butt configuration are good choices, if you can find one.

Simplify your ammunition supply. If you have a light alloy frame gun use mid-range target wadcutters for practice. In steel frame guns practice with cast lead flatnose "Cowboy" loads or semi-wadcutter field loads. For actual defense carry use only factory loaded +P lead hollowpoint or JHP "personal protection loads." You may also want to keep a few Speer shotshells around if you live in snake country. These loads really handle all uses for a .38 revolver. Competent use of .357 ammunition requires a higher level of training and expertise which generally departs from our "non-hobbyist" scenario.

The muzzle of a revolver should always be elevated when ejecting fired cases, so that any unburned powder particles fall out with the empties, rather than under the extractor, or between the crane and frame, which could tie up the gun. Smart revolver shooters always carry a toothbrush in their kit for cleaning residue out from under the extractor. If you haven't shot a revolver before, my advice is to make friends with an old retired cop who carried one for at least 20 years and ask him to show you how to properly clean and maintain it. I would also get a copy of Ed Lovett's book, The Snubby Revolver.

If you don't currently own a handgun, but have been thinking about getting one, you can't go wrong with a sturdy 4" .38 Special (or .357).

 

[easyg]

I recommend that you get either a Glock 19, or a S&W M&P9 compact, or a Springfield Armory XD9 compact.

You can't go wrong with any of these 9mm pistols.

It is true that .22 ammo is cheaper than 9mm ammo and, in theory, you can have more range time.
But I have found that, in most cases, folks don't spend that much time at the range not because of ammo prices, but because of time constraints (study time, work schedule, other hobbies, family time, illness, injury, travel, vacation, etc...).

And with a 9mm you will have something that is fun at the range, yet still is a great self-defense caliber.

Do not get a revolver as your 1st handgun.
They generally take more time to master than an autoloader, and they're not quite as much fun to shoot IMO.

 

[aHFo3]

Go to your local gun store and look at as many as you can. Hold them, cycle the action, aim them, and get the feel for them. Don't be afraid to buy used either.
Even though you have enough $ for two, just buy one first. You may learn some thing you really like or dislike for your 2nd purchase.

Buy a 22lr first!

Check out the factory conversion kits from CZ and SIG Sauer.

Good luck.

 

[Lonestar49]

9mm or 40cal IF..

...

As far as "not getting this or that gun" as a first gun, that depends on, as mentioned, what is the need of the gun for..?

As was my case 3yrs ago, it was for HD/SD, as I knew once we lost our last German Shepherd, the wife couldn't handle the loss, again, for a while, so no dogs and the need for a handgun..

The following mentioned guns are in DA/SA format, the Beretta Px4's come in F models (with safety/decocker in one) or G models, which is what I have, and have decocker-only. Sigs have decocker-only, fyi, on DA/SA models.

It was between 9mm or 40cal, so I opted, by feel, price NIB (640.00) in my neck of the woods, and ease of disassembley, inspection, cleaning, and reassembly, between a Sig P226 9mm (940.00) or the much lighter (at the time..lol) Beretta Px4 40.

The Px4 won out on both natural grip feel, balance, point to aim vs the much heavier (then) P226 and 300 bucks more.

Took a private lesson, first, to learn how to handle, safely, my gun, shoot it correctly/safely and clean it.. 1.5hrs worth for 57 bucks. Soaked it up like a sponge..

Then took several more, advanced classes as time went by..

I think that is the key, taking a lesson from the very get-go, or a safety class, with "what gun the OP's needs are for" and within a budget that is good for him..

I can tell you that the Px4 shoots "very accurately" in both slow shots, or rapid, back on target follow-up shots and is very forgiving of recoil due to the rotating barrel effect, having some 9400 flawless rounds out mine over the years.

3 Sig P229's, almost the same size as the Px4 but are a tad smaller, were to follow, in 9mm and 40cal and the weight difference is negligible, now/then as one's hand, wrist, arm and, yep, back muscles, come on-line from time put in shooting and strengthen considerably.

Personally, I would recommend getting a 9mm IF he gets a Px4, that way he can be assured that the gun will shoot cleanly, comfortably, all year round, as some of the 40cals do develop trigger sting in cold weather (as in fall, winter) and the 9mm's do not..

The Sigs have no trigger talk (sting) problems in any weather and, like the Px4's, both offer, IMO, some of the best DA pulls that just get better and smoother per every 500 rounds shot and, clean, light SA pulls, out of the box, as opposed to what others may have felt.

Read below: **

** Guns that are NIB usually have little "lubrication" down in the trigger works, hammer, sear area from the factory (more like rust-preparative packing grease) and is why they can feel gritty, heavier, longer, and is the "main reason" when someone buys a NIB gun, to clean it, then add real lubrication to these areas, rails, guides, etc., and work-it-in using some snap-caps for dry-firing and practice loading, chambering, unloading, ones gun before hitting the range and better, making an appointment with a gun range for either a private lesson or group lesson from the get go.


And, or, if the OP goes Sig, 9mm, 40cal, 45cal, in either P229 or 226 in 9mm or 40cal or P220 or 220 Carry 45cal, IMO, he will not be disappointed, especially with a lesson and, for sure, far up the road (reliability wise) with such choice and the same for Beretta's Px4 9mm or *40cal - *with the warning, again, that some, not all, in 40cal, can develop cold weather trigger sting and 9mm's do not.

Either guns/makes mentioned are accurate, easy to dissasemble, inspect, clean, and reassemble "safely", a big plus, key, IMO.

Take the lesson immediately as:

Good habits last long and work, from the get-go

And if not:

Bad habits (start quick) and take a long time to break and can frustrate and even lead to false beliefs that one's gun is not accurate, jams a lot, not reliable, etc., etc. (when in fact they are not at fault, but user error is) and lead one to:

Buyer's remorse then takes over, via bad habits, whatever they may be or include.

OMMV,


Ls

 

[Confederate]

The two best pistols I recommend are the Ruger Mark II/III .22LR in whatever iteration you feel appropriate, and a good .357 magnum revolver with a 4-inch barrel. My personal choice on the latter is a Ruger Security-Six in stainless if you can find one in pristine condition. A GP-100 also is a fine choice.

Semi-autos are okay if you want or need firepower, but there are so few out now that I can solidly recommend. Glocks seem to be fairly solid, but you have to really watch them. Every agency, federal or state that has gone to Glock from any other handgun has seen a marked increasing of accidental discharges. (See this article)




The Ruger Mark II should be in everyone's bugout bag. Another great gun
is the Ruger Single-Six .22LR/Mag.

 

[jfrey]

Here's something else to ponder. Sig makes a 226 that you can get in 9mm and also get a .22 top end to fit the same frame. This seems like the best of both worlds. Shoot the .22 to get used to the pistol and use the 9mm slide assembly for carry and defense.

Check it out, it may be something you like.

 

[Paints]

Here's something else to ponder. Sig makes a 226 that you can get in 9mm and also get a .22 top end to fit the same frame. This seems like the best of both worlds. Shoot the .22 to get used to the pistol and use the 9mm slide assembly for carry and defense.

I have that setup for a 9mm CZ-75B. The adapter costs more than buying a good .22. Personally, I'd rather shoot a Ruger Mk II when I want to shoot .22. The loading, recoil, etc. is so different that I don't consider the .22 adapter to be "training" for using the 9mm.

Something to consider, if you buy a Sig P229 in 40SW or 357Sig, you can get barrels for the other caliber for a little over $200 to switch back and forth, or even a 9mm barrel.

Although revolvers are excellent "sit in the drawer, seldom take shooting" guns, revolver ammo is more expensive than 9mm if someone is going to shoot the gun very much.

Each of us have our preferences. That's why it's a good investment to rent some guns at a range before you buy one. Or find a friend that will let you shoot his gun.

I have a number of good revolvers (and I handload, so ammo prices are the same), but for some reason, I prefer shooting a semi automatic. As I said, we each have our preferences.

Ken

 

[Hammerhead6814]

Go to www.handgunforum.net and read the "New to Handguns" Section "Newbie to guns? Need Help? where to start?" sticky on the top of the threads listing. It's by a user named "Shipwreck".

He covers pretty much everything to think about.

If you really want advice, with a $1200 budget I'd spend $200 on a .22 pistol. After a little practice with one it really helps remove the involuntary movement and unnecessary recoil made by a shooter who's just starting out. I've known people who start out on a .357 Magnum or a .45 ACP who somehow recoil just the same shooting a .22. It's not because the .22 has the same kick, but it's because the shooter is used to that motion when firing that he or she does it involuntarily.

 

[Capstick1]

Good First Handgun

If you can rent or borrow one I'd suggest you give a Springfield XD40M a try. This gun is basically an improved safer version of a Glock. Not only does it have a trigger safety but it also has a grip safety and beefier slide rails as well. As far as hand fit goes the XDM comes with with three interchangeable grip inserts sized to fit small, medium, and large hands. Another nice feature of the XDM is that it comes with STEEL sights, not that cheap plastic junk that comes on the factory Glocks.

 

[chezbian]

is it hard to conceal a 7"-8" pistol?I went to a gun store and held, didnt have time to shoot, the px4 and some glocks im not really sure how i feel yet about the safety trigger on the glocks, but both fit my "large sized" hand pretty well. Any suggestions on guns that fit like those so i have more to shoot than 4.

 

[Paints]

is it hard to conceal a 7"-8" pistol?

I'm assuming your mean 7-8" gun length, not barrel length ;-)

In a good IWB (inside the waistband) holster, gun length doesn't matter for concealment, the extra length is covered by your pants.

A good holster keeps the grip tight against your body.

Issues for concealment (beyond a good holster) include the grip length and thickness.

I've carried full sized Sig Sauers (P226, P220) but the thinner 1911 pistols conceal easier. The 1911 is only a fraction of an inch thinner but it seems to make concealment easier.

It is a bit harder to conceal a long pistol if you are carrying OWB (outside the waist band), but it can be done easily depending on your clothing.

Ken

 

[JAL1628]

Hello Chezbian, I'm new here.

Well, you say recoil is not an issue?

I'll go out on a limb and vote for a 357 with a 4" barrel. It will shoot the 38 Special, 38 +p, +p+, and 357 mag. It's heavy and recovers easily from shot to shot; it shoots at 6 o'clock so you can see your target while you aim, and, properly cared for it will outlast you. It's also easy to clean.

You'll never outgrow a 357. Everyone who shoots mine, including beginners, loves it and shoots it well. It's a great camping gun, a good man-stopper, a fun range gun, and just looks cool as hell.

My .02.