I apologize in advance if this has been discovered before.
I was having a problem with bolting a new safe to my cement floor or the walls in my basement. This would be the same issue for someone that maybe had their safe in an apartment and couldn't do modification to the floor or wall.
Here is the solution that I found, and I am sure it wont work for everyone.
Some have said to leave the safe on the pallet it comes in. There are 2 known problems with that. 1 is someone with a floor jack can come along and take it away if the pallet isn't bolted down. 2 is that the wood (if exposed to a lot of moisture for whatever reason unless specially treated) can rot after awhile.
I the solution that works for me is this.
My safe is approximately 27" deep. Narrow enough to fit through a standard 30x80 doorway. As most safes come with a pallet that fit it exactly, it can go through said doorway sideways without a problem.
Solution is to buy a Plastic Pallet sold many places online that is wider than the doorway. You can put it through the doorway on its side. Set it up where you want. Transfer your safe from the wooden pallet to the plastic one (after unbolting it first). Re-bolt it to the plastic pallet with whatever washers are neccessary to get it done. The pallet i am using looks like the one located in this post. In my case i just placed the safe on it. Drill the holes down through the safe and reached up under the pallet to hold the nut in place while i rebolted it.
This solves several situations.
1. The safe is off the floor on plastic that has circulation around it to prevent rust on the bottom forming.
2. It is water resistant. So if you get a leak in your basement (pipe burst, ground water leakage, etc), it is good unless you get several inches enough to get above the platform, then into the cracks on the safe door.
3. It is wider than the doorway, so regardless of pallet jack, forklift or whatever, it isn't getting out of the room because it is now wider than the doorway.
4. You can cap off the mounting holes in the back of the safe to increase moisture barrier/heat barrier if it is a fire safe.
5. If you have a light safe, then they still aren't going to carry it out if it is too wide. They aren't going to turn the safe on its side unless you have a safe that is shorter than say 25 inches tall.
6. The likely hood of them being able to unbolt the safe from the oversized pallet without actually getting into the safe is HIGHLY unlikely, and way too time consuming, if even possible.
7. Lastly you have now room between the safe and the wall for more air circulation on the outside of the safe.
I hope this helps some people out.
Let me know if anyone has further questions.
Gary J
I was having a problem with bolting a new safe to my cement floor or the walls in my basement. This would be the same issue for someone that maybe had their safe in an apartment and couldn't do modification to the floor or wall.
Here is the solution that I found, and I am sure it wont work for everyone.
Some have said to leave the safe on the pallet it comes in. There are 2 known problems with that. 1 is someone with a floor jack can come along and take it away if the pallet isn't bolted down. 2 is that the wood (if exposed to a lot of moisture for whatever reason unless specially treated) can rot after awhile.
I the solution that works for me is this.
My safe is approximately 27" deep. Narrow enough to fit through a standard 30x80 doorway. As most safes come with a pallet that fit it exactly, it can go through said doorway sideways without a problem.
Solution is to buy a Plastic Pallet sold many places online that is wider than the doorway. You can put it through the doorway on its side. Set it up where you want. Transfer your safe from the wooden pallet to the plastic one (after unbolting it first). Re-bolt it to the plastic pallet with whatever washers are neccessary to get it done. The pallet i am using looks like the one located in this post. In my case i just placed the safe on it. Drill the holes down through the safe and reached up under the pallet to hold the nut in place while i rebolted it.
This solves several situations.
1. The safe is off the floor on plastic that has circulation around it to prevent rust on the bottom forming.
2. It is water resistant. So if you get a leak in your basement (pipe burst, ground water leakage, etc), it is good unless you get several inches enough to get above the platform, then into the cracks on the safe door.
3. It is wider than the doorway, so regardless of pallet jack, forklift or whatever, it isn't getting out of the room because it is now wider than the doorway.
4. You can cap off the mounting holes in the back of the safe to increase moisture barrier/heat barrier if it is a fire safe.
5. If you have a light safe, then they still aren't going to carry it out if it is too wide. They aren't going to turn the safe on its side unless you have a safe that is shorter than say 25 inches tall.
6. The likely hood of them being able to unbolt the safe from the oversized pallet without actually getting into the safe is HIGHLY unlikely, and way too time consuming, if even possible.
7. Lastly you have now room between the safe and the wall for more air circulation on the outside of the safe.
I hope this helps some people out.
Let me know if anyone has further questions.
Gary J