Securing Safe On A Raised Platform

[otisrush]

I have a new safe on order and it's about to arrive. I thought I had an airtight plan for installation and securing it and it appears to have fallen apart. I'd be interested in thoughts people might have.

The safe is going in my garage. It's a long boring story, but the bottom line is I need to put the safe on a platform that is at least 4" off the garage floor. Home Depot has solid concrete blocks that are 8"x16"x4". I thought these were perfect. I'd use concrete anchors to anchor the blocks to the floor, and then anchor the safe to the blocks.

I learned today those blocks will likely crumble *both* from the drilling as well as the weight of the safe itself. So now I'm faced with trying to figure out how to raise the safe min 4" as well as get it secured to the floor.

Anyone have any ideas? My safe delivery guy said he has seen people leave the safe on the wood skids they are shipped on, then use angle iron or something to secure it. Maybe I do something like that. I'd also be interested to hear if folks have gone through the trouble of getting a safe and NOT secured it to the floor. I've heard of stories where the mere presence of the safe alone scares them off. "Anything valuable here is in there. I can grab some stuff from next door a lot faster than messing with this thing."

Thanks.

OR

 

[Sam1911]

Hard to see your exact situation, but there are a number of options.

You could make a wooden platform that was glued and tap-conned to the slab and bolt the safe to that.

You could lay a solid or nearly solid platform of solid masonry block, dowled to the slab with epoxied-in rebar and then bolt to that with redheads or lags and lag shields.

Neither of those would be very hard to do and would cause a burglar to do a lot more work than an un-secured safe.

 

[CB900F]

Otis;

Here's something that we provide to our customers who want to do just what you're describing. The biggest difference though is our solution is half the height you're saying you need. Nonetheless: We contract with a local fab shop to provide a base made of 2" heavy wall square tubing. The base is made exactly as wide as the safe & 1" less deep. The result is an open U, the back being open. The corners are gusseted for strength. Our safes have a central steel plug that can be removed to bolt the unit down. The bolt simply has to be a bit longer than normal to accommodate the base. We suggest using Cat brand grade 8 bolts screwing into a a good concrete anchor. The anchor has to go in first and be positioned properly, without fail.

This does make locating the base & safe an exacting process. I'd suggest using a professional to do it. Discuss with a SAVTA locksmith & thoroughly cover the details involved. Personally, I make the statement: "Oh, and I forgot to mention", costly.

900F

 

[X-Rap]

Does your garage floor slope to the door? Do you own the home? Will the safe be set in place permanently?

If so I would form up a base to the height you require and mix up some premixed concrete and then attach with drill in anchor bolts.

 

[otisrush]

Thanks for the ideas. Maybe the long boring story will help explain the situation.

I live in an area with expansive soils, so the garage floor floats relative to the walls. The concrete that the wall sill plate sits on is separate from the garage floor. (The stationary concrete for the wall sits on concrete piers.) The floating floor is 3.5" below (vertically) the concrete the sill plate sits on. Also, the floating floor stops 5" (horizontally) from the framed wall. I need to get the safe into the very corner of the walls but also allow it to float with the floor. So my plan has been to put it on a platform that is on the floor, but push the safe into the corner so it hangs off the platform (and above the stationary concrete that supports the wall).

I do own the house and my intent is to have this installed permanently.

Pouring concrete for the platform could make sense, as long as it can handle the drilling for the anchors. Would home-mixed concrete fit that bill, do you think? Or do you think a professional would need to come in and do it?

Thanks again.

OR

 

[X-Rap]

The premix that is used for sidewalks and other small jobs should be fine, stay away from any cheaper post mix as they will have a lesser amount of cement. If you want to increase the strength a little add some mesh wire and a couple cups of type II portland cement to the mix although what comes in the bag should suffice. I would also rough up the old surface that you intend to bond the new concrete to, a hammer and chisel should work for that small of an area.
Wear your glasses.

 

[idoono]

Also, make sure to use some of the liquid bonding agent for the new concrete to get a good bond ith the old. It sells for something like $5 a gallon and really makes a difference. Additionally cut some rebar and epoxy it into the old concrete to create a better bond.

idoono

 

[wahya451]

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=609645

 

[oneounceload]

I used pressure treated 4X4s with a sheet of plywood on top and a thin piece of carpet for cushioning on top of that. Fastened to the ground, the safe is fastened to the platform, and the safe is fastened to the walls in a corner

Steel on concrete is a no-no, it will rust. I used the platform not only for ease of use, but in case the water heater failed and flooded (it did)

 

[Whacked]

I would also rough up the old surface that you intend to bond the new concrete to, a hammer and chisel should work for that small of an area.

Also, with the above, I would drill and place rebar in the old concrete. bend the rebar into a upside down L shape (horizontal part of the L will be in middle of new concrete height) and epoxy (or grout) the rebar into place. You could use other material in place of rebar (like all-thread) you just wont have a bend. the point is to provide additional strength and bonding to the old concrete.
Oh, and 3" minimum cover on the rebar.

then once the concrete is poured. set in some J bolts. I would pre-make a form so you know exactly where to place the J bolts.

 

[Whacked]

Steel on concrete is a no-no, it will rust

steel will rust. but if concrete is placed correctly it will be a long time in coming.

Just think of all that steel (rebar) in the concrete slab of a bridge next time you drive over one.
Or about all that steel placed in your home that is sittin on a slab-on-grade or raised floor on footings.

rent or borrow a ***** (yes that is what they are called) to vibrate the concrete in place. for that small area you can also rod it but you will need you tamp it with a mallet. the intent is to push the concrete in place and remove air pockets.

 

[wahya451]

it is still cheaper and it wont rust if you use a freight style plastic pallet. It isn't as heavy, but you can get a size that is bigger than your doorway, put it in place, then bolt the safe to it. plus it keeps it up off the floor in case of water issues.