Seeking Lee Classic Turret .308 mentor.

[Centurian22]

Ok, I've read the 'stickies', I've read the ABC's of Reloading, I've spent countless hours scouring the reloading forum, the lee precision page (including two phone calls), midwayusa, and fsreloading. Some brief background: I intend to reload .308 for a bolt action for range and hunting, .32 S&W Long for range and SD, and 9mm for the same. There have now been three separate times I've come to a point where I've said to myself "I think I'm getting a handle on this!" and therefore been wrong at least twice now lol!

What I am seeking now is ANYONE who loads any of the three calibers, but hopefully .308 as that's my first main focus, on a Lee Classic Turret. I have no family or friends who reload and have very limited time at home as I work away. This would make it very difficult to find a mentor at my local range and make schedules work. Is anyone who fits the description willing to spend some time (any would help) either through email, message or even over the phone (my dime) to help walk me through and make sure I am ordering EVERYTHING I need and that it will all work as I intend it to?

I'll also throw into this mix a couple quick component questions. I plan to buy and use Sierra Match King 168gr for the range (possibly try 175gr but so far my gun has disliked the one factory ammo over 168 that I tried) as these gave me the best performance in factory ammo. For hunting whitetail I'm debating between Nosler Partition and Sierra Gameking / Pro hunter. For powder I hear alot about Varget being a good starter, and primers I figure go for what I've heard to be one of the best CCI. So: does anyone use these components and willing to share recepies? Do you have better sugestions? How is Varget for volume as I'd like to use a powder that fills as much of the case as possible for two reasons: first I've heard it can improve accuracy and second one more step to make it less likely to over or double charge. Don't get me wrong I have every intention of taking all possible precautions but the more fool proof to start the better.

Thanks in advance, especially to anyone willing to 'tele-mentor' an eager learner!

 

[Certaindeaf]

The first die/station will size, de-prime and prime the case. You need/want the Safety-Prime unit for priming.
The second will throw the powder. You need/want the Auto-Disk powder measure and rifle charging die (it has a riser) with the double disk setup.
The third will seat the bullet.

hope I helped

 

[dragon813gt]

What are your questions? I reload 308 on the classic turret. If you have specific questions I'm more than willing to answer them. If you have Lee dies the instructions that come with them are easy to understand for setting them up. In general once the cases are trimmed and chamfered it's quick and easy to load them on the turret.

And I would not use any loads posted on the Internet. Use ones that are in the manuals or on the powder manufacturer's sites. I don't expect anyone to trust the loads I have developed for my firearms so I feel the same way about theirs.

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[joecil]

I load 4 different calibers on a Lee Classic Turret. I got the primer kit and use the Lee Auto Disk with the Pro kit added or the Pro disk with the spring and arm with an extension to clear. Now I have a powder measure for each as I set them up in their turret removing the turret, powder dispenser and all per caliber. Change the shell holder and primer setup (takes about 3 seconds and start loading with the powder and primers of your choice.

I buy dies comes with shell holder, turret, powder dispenser. That is about all that is needed to buy per caliber which comes to about $52 for it all from FS Reloading. Light enough to opt for Postal mail which is cheaper than UPS.

Now this assumes you have the primer system and the press.

 

[Centurian22]

Ok questions I still have:

For charging the .308, do you do this on the press with the pro auto-disk with the double disk add-on and rifle charging die, or off press with the lee perfect powder measure and why? The technician I spoke with at lee said that he would recommend the perfect powder measure for 308 because even with the double disk the Autodisk was limited and could not be used with certain powders. Are there certain powders that the auto disk or perfect powder don't like? Can / should you crimp if the bullet doesn't have a cannelure? What are the advantages to crimping or not crimping for accuracy / hunting. Same crimping questions for the pistol rounds. I'm not familiar with powder volumes, what powders would you recommend for .308 for filling most of (or at least more than half) these cases. I have heard good things about Varget, IMR 4064, IMR 4895, and Reloader 15. Same question to 9mm and .32 S&W long. Are there powders that could be used for both of those pistol calibers or am I better off or required (by safety) to use diff powders.

I will be doing load work up research on all of these, I figure your experience and input can give me a good place to get started though.*

I do not have the equipment yet but here is my 'shopping list':

Lee Classic 4-hole turret kit (with pro auto disk, scale, case prep, case trimmer, and safety prime)
Lee powder funnel
Lee perfect powder measure
Lee Auto-Disk adjustable powder charge bar
Frankford arsenal SS Dial caliper
Frankford arsenal Bullet puller
Two extra turrets
Lee deluxe 3-die set 308
Lee factory crimp die 308
Lee case gage and shell holder 308
Lee carbide 3-die set 32S&W long
Lee case gage and shell holder 32
Lee deluxe carbide 4 die set 9mm
Lee case gage and shell holder 9mm

If I've done my math right, from midway I'm looking at ~ $440 before shipping. Might wait on the .32 for now and pick up dies for that and 7.62x54r for my new Mosin (I have an awesome Father in law on a side note!!!) at a later time.*

So far unless your experiences change my mind I plan to charge 308 off press with the perfect powder measure and plan to charge both pistol cases on press with the adjustable charge bar.*

Ok let the knowledge and input flow please. I greatly appreciate the help and have tried my best not to just repost the same old 'new Reloader' questions that have been answered a hundred times before.*

Thanks!

 

[Centurian22]

Ok does anyone know why there are asterisks by some of my paragraphs that I didn't put there?

 

[joecil]

Ok to use the Lee Pro Auto Disk with the Turret it will need a bit of modifying however it is still cheaper that getting the Lee Auto Disk and upgrade kit. The prices below are from FS Reloading and might be different at other sites.

The first two items are the powder measure and riser required if using the Lee primer feed setup.

90429 Lee Pro Auto-Disk Powder Measure $32.48
90041 Lee Auto Disk Riser $7.60

Now these parts are nothing more than a lever replacement for the Pro that uses a spring return rather than a chain which won't work on a turret. I do recommend you get two springs.

AD2309 Lee Powder Mea Levr "F" $2.00
AD2296 Lee Spring $0.50

Now I know this because I own 4 of them 2 where Pro model and 2 where Auto Disk type well I converted all of them over for my Lee Classic Turret and sold my Lee Pro 1000 presses.

 

[dragon813gt]

The last post is very confusing since he's using the names interchangeably. The pro auto disk and regular auto disk will work on a turret with no modification. The only extra part required is the riser. And this is only needed if you are using the auto prime on the press. Otherwise you don't need the extra height to clear anything.


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[joecil]

The last post is very confusing since he's using the names interchangeably. The pro auto disk and regular auto disk will work on a turret with no modification. The only extra part required is the riser. And this is only needed if you are using the auto prime on the press. Otherwise you don't need the extra height to clear anything.

Ok, the guy stated he wanted to use the Pro style hopper (round that can be shut off) so if you want to use it on a Turret press you will need to change it to operate like the Auto Disk (spring closing not a chain) and buying just the Pro version and those two parts will save money over the Auto Disk with the upgrade. I hope that is clearer now.

 

[dragon813gt]

You don't need to change anything. It comes set up with the spring already. If you buy the Pro Auto-Disk it comes set up with the spring and the chain is in the box if you want to covert it. I'm fairly certain even the Auto-Disk comes this way as well.

There is the Auto-Disk, Pro Auto-Disk and the Perfect Powder Measure. The PPM will not work on the turret without some non Lee made parts.

I'm just trying to avoid confusing people that don't know the differences between the three.


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[Centurian22]

Thank you Dragon for the clarification.

As I understand it based on info from Lee, the auto-disk's that come with the turret kit (as I plan to get) have the spring but no chain, the ones that come with the progressives have the chain but no spring and if you just buy it separate it has both. All this aside:

Crimping advantages and disadvantages?
Crimping when seating or separate (with a FCD)?
Crimping without a cannelure?
.308 rifle powder that meters well in the perfect powder?
9mm / .32s&w long powder that will meter well in the auto-disk?
Is the adjustable powder bar helpful / worth it?

Thanks for any further help!

 

[joecil]

You don't need to change anything. It comes set up with the spring already. If you buy the Pro Auto-Disk it comes set up with the spring and the chain is in the box if you want to covert it. I'm fairly certain even the Auto-Disk comes this way as well.

There is the Auto-Disk, Pro Auto-Disk and the Perfect Powder Measure. The PPM will not work on the turret without some non Lee made parts.

I'm just trying to avoid confusing people that don't know the differences between the three.

Wasn't aware of that since my 1 Pro came mounted on an complete Pro 1000 in 45 Colt the other came with an Auto Loader style using the spring. Great to know that as I assumed based on what I have read they originally did come with the spring return.

 

[stubbicatt]

Everybody has his own method. I love the Classic Cast press, and the Lee Dies. Not a fan of the "Perfect" powder measure, which I think is a misnomer. I have used the double disc setup for 223, but not 308. I use the fully automated features of the classic cast for pistol rounds, using the autodisc.

For 308 I use a Harrell powder measure, and have been quite content with its consistency, but then I do not load at max or near max pressures... just don't see the need.

So: Station 1: size, deprime, reprime. Toss in bin.

Step 2: charge w/ powder off press and seat bullet. Toss in bin 2

Step 3: Factory crimp if necessary.

There is a variation I will use to save the "chamfer" step on freshly trimmed brass, in which I set the turret up with a Lyman die which flares the case mouth just a skosh in station 2 of the press. In this event I will size, deprime on station 1. Step 2, powder charge and then flare case mouth, then seat bullet, then factory crimp if desired.

Really the beauty of the setup is its versatility.

 

[mitchz]

Sorry I can't help on press questions I have Hornady progressive. But a few tricks I found for .308 are. The first 3 or 4 you make prime, powder and only seat bullet 1/2 to 3/4 depth then chamber in your rifle, measure each of them then set your die for depth and crimp. This sets the bullet to your rifle. Also use a concenticity tool after loading. I have found by doing this I get 1/2 shots at 300 yards. As for loads my favorite is 147 winchester FMJBT with 44gn. hodgon 4895. I chronyd them at 2862fps to 2888fps and shot 1/2 in at 300 yards. Thats through a Savage FCP-K

 

[the count]

Your powder question really has nothing to do with which press you are using. And which bullet will work best is something you have to try out. Two totally identical rifles can vary in accuracy when loaded with the exact same ammo. So other people's 'best' hand loads are worth diddly squat to you. Beware of people claiming to get 1/4 inch groups at 400 yards. Highly unlikely unless they are real pro's with 10,000 dollar rifles.

Thats why we all reload. To give us all something to waste our time and nit pick about

TIP: Varget is good, but I got just as good results with several rifles using H335, and thats much cheaper.

 

[FROGO207]

For the 308 I like H335, BLC-2, AA2015, Varget and IMR 4895. The military uses WC844 which is CLOSE to H335 and WC846 which is CLOSE to BLC-2 in their 308 NATO ammo. This is with the 145 to 175 grain jacketed projectile range. I would look up the data for the bullets you have/get from their manufacturers and choose data with the recommended propellants and try them first. You should start at starting loads or reduce MAX by 10% to find starting load and work up in at lest 6 steps to stay safe. With the handgun ammo there are a Lot of choices there. A lot depends on what you are using for a bullet. Lead and jacketed are worlds apart there IMHO. Also 9MM is a high pressure round and 32 S&W long is not, so the same propellant would not work well if at all with both of them either. Lead pistol rounds work well with Trail Boss but it does not work well with 9MM at all. Depending on the bullet weight you would use Blue Dot. Red Dot, BullsEye, Unique, or 800X for starters in 9MM. More info there might help us to help you more with our answers. I do not use that turret press, I use the RCBS one. I think that you have more control of your propellant accuracy if you charge the cases off the press using a loading block and bright flashlight to check propellant levels before seating your bullets. This method works best for me. My thought is you can make ammo fast or accurately but seldom make it accurately when in a hurry. YMMV

FWIW I have never trimmed a piece of straight walled pistol brass in 40+ years of reloading yet. I would save the money on the pistol brass trimmers.
You need the lock stud and cutter kit to use any of the trimmer kits and do get the kit for 308. I have the 308 FCD and tried it out. The ammo was no better using it and if anything the necks split sooner when I did use it with the 308 ammo. I would save my money there.

 

[Danco411]

I load .308 for accuracy on a Lee Classic Turret. I prefer it over my progressive for control and "feel" which you don't get on a progressive as each pull does multiple things. I do not size on my turret. I resize and deprime all cases on an old Rock chucker. Back in the tumbler then trimmed, chamfered and primer pockets cleaned and flash holes deburred. I only start reloading once I have a good supply of "perfect" brass. My OCD helps!

My turret Has the Pro Auto Disk with double disks. I have yet to not have enough charge with the largest holes with the powders I use. I only have three stations...open hole for prime with safety prime, powder charge with rifle extension and bullet seat. I NEVER crimp 308 and I load for an AR. It's just not necessary if you size right. Case mouth tension on the bullet is all you need. Seat the bullet and your done.

I load Hornady A-max, BTHP match, FMJ-BT and SST for hunting. I also load the Berger VLD hunting and the new HYbrids. My powders of choice are Varget, IMR XBR 8208, CFE, RE15 and surplus WC846 and WC844 for cheap FMJ-BT plinking rounds. All CCI 200 primers.

Loading is the easy part. The case prep is the most tedious and time consuming. It's also the most important for accuracy which is why I resize in a separate function on a simple $40 press.