setting bullet seating die depth

[nooooobie]

What do experienced reloaders think of using a snap cap as a 'tester' for the bullet seating die - pull the lever on the press, and stop when there's resistance; if the die isn't touching the shellholder, back it out. If it touches the shellholder and isn't pressing the snap cap, dial it in. That way I don't have to pull bullets set too deeply.

 

[jstein650]

Snap caps are pretty generic with regard to overall length, so I wouldn't go that route. OAL is usually a Minimum to ensure the bullet isn't encroaching too much into the case and reducing that space. The maximum is defined with working in a magazine, feeding, and not getting jammed into the barrel rifling. I find the published OAL's are good to go by, and may seat longer if everything works, and sometimes you'll get better accuracy in a rifle, being closer to the lands. (Some benchrest guys will let the bullet press into the lands when loading, but I'd definitely advise against this until you have much more experience) For a new load, I just seat enough for the bullet to hold, and keep checking with calipers on the seating stage until I get to the right depth. If you overshoot by a couple thou', well, that's not worth pulling, just back out a bit for the next try.

 

[nooooobie]

Thanks for the recommendations. I'm all theory (read a LOT) and no practice to speak of. I'm currently only reloading 9mm, and the snap cap I have is compliant with the SAAMI dimensions within 1 mil. I figured it was good for FMJ reloading, at least. With JHP, it would still get the OAL right.

 

[Fire_Moose]

Each bullet will have a different point and ogive. Setting the die to a snap cap will not help unless you have a bullet that matches the snap cap ogive.

On that note, once I have a load I like I will make a dummy round and write in Sharpie in the case which oal that one is. This makes for easy set up.

Sent from my CZ85 Combat

 

[1KPerDay]

Make a dummy round, as noted, or save one of your loaded rounds (using the same bullet, etc.) that has passed the "plunk test" in your barrel for reference next time you have to reset OAL. And keep good records.

As noted, different bullet profiles have different OALs required, and all should be tested in YOUR chamber to make sure they'll work properly.

 

[jstein650]

Sure. BTW, with pistols, OAL is more about pressure safety (too short being a problem) and magazine fit & gun function (too long being a problem) Of course, some manuals aren't all that specific on exact bullet - just style & weight. Most newer manuals are quite specific, though, which is really nice. Once you get more involved, you'll get a feel for substituting one, say JSP for another of the same weight. It certainly can be more critical in a high pressure rifle, than, say than a .38 spcl. There are definitely times when you have to start low and go up (which I'm sure you've read or heard 1000 times) Looks like you're fairly new - so welcome!
P.S. Please do ask whenever you have a question; the collective knowledge here is really great from what I've been able to learn, and I've been reloading for about 25 yrs!

 

[nooooobie]

Thank you all

Your answers are great. I will definitely save a dummy round that is seated to my satisfaction for each projectile I use. No powder or primer, just casing and bullet.

 

[rcmodel]

Set your OAL using reloading book data for the same or a very similar bullet to get started.

Then use the barrel out of your gun to check by doing the 'Plunk Test' in your chamber.

A loaded round should drop in the chamber with a 'Plunk' and drop out of it's own weight.

And that has nothing to do with snap caps, mag length, or SAAMI max OAL length.

rc

 

[Comrade Mike]

Here's what I do when I noticed COAL can vary by up to .01 with cheap bullets even though you haven't touched the die. Cheaper rifle bullets (cheaper than 50/C or so) tend to have ogives that wander a bit. If you were to seat every bullet from the same box to the same COAL the ogive distance to the rifling would actually be rather inconsistent and could run you into trouble if you're close to the throat.

So what I do for every bullet I use is make up a dummy round. I seat .02 off the rifling. So my procedure once I find my seating depth is to make a dummy round which I write the COAL for that particular dummy round at my ideal seating depth and for the rifle I'm loading for. Then when I reset my die to load that bullet down the road, I set the die to reseat my dummy round to the exact same COAL. This is repeatable and ensures the ogive will be in the same spot consistently despite variances you may see in COAL.

 

[Potatohead]

gosh i wana get into this (reloading) but the more i read about it, the more complicated it sounds

 

[Comrade Mike]

gosh i wana get into this (reloading) but the more i read about it, the more complicated it sounds

It's not for everybody, if you're not going to pay attention to detail it's not for you. If you're willing to put in the time, read and ask questions you'll find a very rewarding hobby. We all know at least one guy makes you stake your spot as far away as possible after you hear about his load practices. Don't be that guy

 

[raddiver]

While its not the greatest pic in the world (snapped it just now without editing)
This is what i do for my dummy rounds.
My wife bought some baseball card holders for her coupons, and i absconded with a few of them.

Im sure others have betters ideas for organizing them.

FWIW

 

[SlowFuse]

I use dummies that match the round I am loading to "get close" when setting a die up. I don't use the locking rings because I don't have a separate die for every variation of rounds I do. But I do not use this alone to set the oal. I still manually do fine adjusment of the die and check all lengths with calipers.

 

[balderclev]

I always set the seating depth out on the first round and then "sneak up" on it and lock it in for that session. Even with that said, my seating die still seems to move in at times so I still measure every 3rd or 4th round. I find I do not trust any of my equipment yet so I am kind of OCD with it.

 

[Reefinmike]

Here is how I initially setup a seating/crimp die-

1. size and deprime a case
2. turn turret to seater die spot and start turning in the seating die until I feel the crimper doohickey contact the case mouth.
3. turn the lockring almost all the way down, enough to give maybe an eighth of a turn
4. back out the seater screwerdoohickey almost all the way
5. resize the case again and flair the case mouth
6. put a boolit in the case and bring it up in the seater die. screw down the seater until you feel it contact the bullet
7. one turn at a time, pull the lever(not quite all the way to avoid crimping and shaving lead/plating off) and check the round until it gets close
8. once the boolit gets near to where you want it seated, make very small adjustments and fully pull the lever applying a crimp. If its too long, seat it a bit more. if its too short- I wouldnt worry about it unless you are running max charges. you shouldnt be more than .007 off if you are doing 1/8 turns near final seating depth.

sounds like a process, but I can set up the seating depth and crimp from scratch in about a minute flat.

 

[Reloadron]

gosh i wana get into this (reloading) but the more i read about it, the more complicated it sounds

Reloading or Hand loading is not a complicated process. It does as mentioned require paying attention to detail. The same can be said of many task we perform on a regular basis.



Initially most people who load their own start simple. They use a good loading manual like one from Lyman and a few good books on the subject. The Lyman 49th Reloading Handbook is a good example. You start with the basic tools of the trade which do have an initial cost but for the better part will last a lifetime.

While some of what you read in this section of the THR forums deals with basic reloading there are also a high number of threads that get into more precise and complex reloading. Those threads are more focused on the advanced hand loader who wants to build more than basic ammunition.

The basics require a good manual, taking the time to read it, understanding the terminology, and some essential tools. While reloading is not for the village idiot one need not be a Rhodes Scholar to master it. Don't be dissuaded about taking the practice on. It can be very, very rewarding. The more advanced aspects come later. Bullet seating depth is a good example of things that come later. Initially just work from a good manual and seat the bullets in the cases as suggested. Later there comes room for experimentation.

Ron