Setting my Lee turret for 223 from pistol

[JamieC]

I'm getting ready to start loading for 223. I have a Lee 4 hole turret press, I've been loading for 9mm, 38spl. I need the double disc kit, there is a 'rifle' powder charging die, is this something I need, want? At this point I plan on using my drill press to trim the cases. I bought some CFE223 powder, 55gr Hornady FMJ, some small rifle primers. Any and all pointers cheerfully accepted, Merry Christmas!

 

[flashhole]

I load 221 Fireball, 223 Rem, 25-06, 45-70 and 40 S&W on my Lee Classic Turret. I have the Lee Rifle Charging Die and use it with the Lee Funnel on 221, 223 and 25-06. The 45-70 and 40 S&W both have the Powder Through Expander as part of the regular die set. I like to dipper cup hand-charge my handloads and have never developed a trust for any auto-charging system. Below pics are the setups for 221 Fireball and 25-06. You can see there is plenty of height on the charging die to not interfere with the funnel.

 

[kennedy]

To use the double disk set, you need the rifle powder charging die to screw the powder dispenser to. I use it for .223 and it works great, it works better when I wack the die with the handle of a screw driver.

 

[Rule3]

If you are using the Lee disc powder measure system you need the double disks and the rifle charging die it activates the disk system . Or you can use the funnel and use the dippers.

I size the brass and prime it on the press, then use a loading block and drop the powder with a manual RCBS powder measure. I like to see the powder go in the case. I use a flashlight and reading glasses to confirm every case is charged. Then seat the bullets. No it's not real fast but I know whats happening with every case and can do 100 very quickly.

I use the disk system for all my handgun loads. I am a bit fussy about rifle loads.
To be honest I tested the Lee PP measure system with a lot of powders and many drops. It looks and feels really cheap but it is darn accurate. For the price or it a kit it's worth it.It actually throws stick powder better than my RCBS (it does not jam or cut the powder)

If you use the Lee Safety prime (prime on the press) you need the riser(you may have this already)

http://leeprecision.com/auto-disk-riser.html

What tool are you using in the drill press to trim the brass? Do you have a tool to debur and chamfer after trimming? Hop about a set of calipers to measure?

 

[Gadawg88]

I use the double disk set with the rifle charging die. Once you find the combination of disks that gives you your desired charge, you can move fairly quickly. I have found it to be very suitable for my purposes. Drops desired load vast majority of the time with the occasional +-.1gn variance. I am using 24.2 gn of aa2460 and I can see the powder jump a bit in the case as the disk rotates to the bullet seating die. Make sure you put the disk with the largest hole on bottom. I weigh about every 10 th charge after the fist six or so. Would recommend a good case guage, I use the Wilson. Fast and easy to make sure your cases are right.

 

[JamieC]

Rule3, for trimming my brass, I'm using the Lee cutter and lock stud kit. I need to get the depth gauge. I have the debur/chamfer tool, (came with the kit). I'm planning on tumbling, de-prime, size, trim, chamfer/debur, load. I'm planning on using the Lee case lube, spray it on before I size. Never used case lube, does it need to be cleaned off before any of the other processes?
Gadawg88, case gauge? Educate me, thanks

 

[flashhole]

If you like the Lee Cutter and Lock Stud you will love the Lee 3-Jaw Chuck. Much easier on the hands. Same goes for the Ball Handle Cutter, much easier on the hands. I use the 3-Jaw Chuck in my drill press.

 

[Rushthezeppelin]

@flashhole

If you are using ball or smaller stick powders, don't be afraid to give the the Pro Auto Disk and Double Disk a try. They are very repeatable with the charges they throw. If you want even more adjustability with larger charges you can even tap one of the disks for a 1/4" bolt and use it like a micrometer charging bar, works really darn well for dialing a load in. Give it a shot, I doubt you will be disappointed unless you use a powder it doesn't like (keep in mind every powder measure has powders it likes and hates).

 

[Rule3]

The LEE case lube in a tube ( I use it) is a paste. It can be diluted 10:1 with Rubbing alcohol and sprayed from a little spray bottle. It is water soluble. You need to really shake it up if you dilute it as it separates. Put the brass in a zip lock bag or plastic container a spritz it 2-3 times and shake the bag and brass all around.Let it dry. I put it put on the hot driveway. If you have not bought any lube yet, buy another brand like Hornady One Shot so you have the small bottle and then you can mix the Lee lube ( a lot cheaper) or have Wife or girlfriend go to a beauty supply shop and buy a small spray bottle. Guess you could go if you want. The Lee Lube is actually Electrical wire pulling lube. You can get a lifetime supply at Lowes or Homer Depot.

You definitely need to lube or it will stick a case. If you do stick a case don't freak out. With the LEE dies it's very easy to remove.

http://leeprecision.com/help-videos.html

Or just put a dab on your fingers and rub it on the brass but that wastes it, No it does not need to be removed, If you do just wipe it with a damp rag.

Yes, get the 3 jaw chuck, The little case holder lock thingy works but after 20 or so it gets old real quick!

This is a good easy to use case gauge. They have been scarce out of stock, there are other brands but this one is simple and they make quality stuff.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/456614/le-wilson-case-length-headspace-gage-223-remington

 

[JamieC]

Lee lube is electrical wire pulling lube? I've got a bottle of that in the garage, pulled a wire or two. Why exactly do I need the case gauge? Is it for length? Isn't that what case depth gauge is for? The three jaw chuck holds the case while trimming? Could see where that could be a necessity!

 

[flashhole]

@Rushtheseppelin

What you say makes sense but I am never in a hurry at the reloading bench. I tend to simplify most steps to take out variables. I load for 5 different rifles and used the OCW method for all loads I developed. They all fit some dipper cup very nicely so I just stick with what works for me.

 

[Rule3]

Lee lube is electrical wire pulling lube? I've got a bottle of that in the garage, pulled a wire or two. Why exactly do I need the case gauge? Is it for length? Isn't that what case depth gauge is for? The three jaw chuck holds the case while trimming? Could see where that could be a necessity!

Which manuals do you have?

There are many types of case lubes, Lanolin, Waxes and others.

The Wilson (and others) case gauge not only measures length (which can be done with a caliper) but it measures the most important thing, the shoulder. The 223 headspaces off the shoulder, not the length of the case from end to end. The gauge helps you set up your sizing die. If after resizing, the case does not fit in the correct grooves or steps on the top and bottom of the gauge then you will have problems cambering the cartridge.

Read the front section of Hornady or Speer reloading manuals on Headspace.

All these little dimensions

http://www.6mmbr.com/223rem.html

 

[JamieC]

@Rule3,
Right now the only manual I have is the Lee one, I have some IMR, Alliant reloading catalogs. I did a little reading on the headspace gauge, all the brass I have saved so far came from...? I haven't even finished building my gun yet. I guess I should shoot some new ammo through it, check THOSE cases with the gauge? I think I understand the 'process', if so, would I be correct in ASSuming if a case is too long, (shoulder to head), there's no way to shorten it? If it's a bit long, don't work the case too much, a bit short, it gets more 'work'?