LUCKYDAWG13
Member
Hello all you helped me pick a good Axe Now I'm looking for a good sharping stone for my Axes
and one for my Knife's so looking for 2 of them
and one for my Knife's so looking for 2 of them
sharping stones for Axe
- Thread starter LUCKYDAWG13
- Start date
- Status
troy fairweather
Member
Those two sided puck shaped stones are nice, can't remember the name of make someone may know tho.
OP
OP
LUCKYDAWG13
Member
yes that's what I'm looking at just not sure which one
Behr and Norton used to make pucks with different grits on each side. I am sure there are many others these days. Lansky is another brand but I don't know the OEM.
troy fairweather
Member
If I remember there was one sold buy grand forest brooks. May have been the company that imports and sells the axes that sells the puck.
OP
OP
LUCKYDAWG13
Member
Well i pulled the Trigger on one Sharp and Pebble puck
Barry the Bear
Member
Obturation
Member
That's what I do, clamp the head in a vice and use a couple different files. Makes short work of it. The pucks are more portable and don't require much if any care and do work well.
It goes without saying but I'll mention it; be careful sharpening something heavy. I have hurt myself a time or two sharpening axes and hatchets, never bad enough to go to the er . I've never cut myself sharpening a knife. Ymmv
OP
OP
LUCKYDAWG13
Member
I have used a file too but want to try a stone and see if I can get a better edge
WestKentucky
Member
I guess I’m in the minority with using fine grit on a belt sander. Water bucket below to quench after each light and quick pass. I wish I knew whether the steels could be hardened because I would love to try it, I’m just scared of ruining them. To that point I’m also scared of losing them so they don’t get much use. They tend to stay at home put away and a cheapo harbor freight wonder whacker gets to go on field trips.
lemaymiami
Member
Like many? I was taught to use a file for axe sharpening and would still use one today. I was also in scouting as a kid so you know where I learned it nearly sixty years ago...
Obturation
Member
A hard axe head isn't desirable because it increases the chances of chipping and damage . knives can be harder because they typically aren't swung with a lot of force so less likely to chip if used properly. Just my thinking and I could be wrong .
Fine Figure of a Man
Member
WestKentucky
Member
Yes, but a super soft head loses its edge quickly. My family heirloom tools seem to be on the soft extreme.
Thunderchicken
Member
Not being a smart ass, I really would like to know: how is it that you are likely to cut yourself sharpening something heavy? I know I could easily find out since I am pretty klutzy, but forewarned is forearmed, and I'd prefer that to being one-armed. My ax sits out on the block by the woodpile and gets sharpened on the bench grinder, if that gives you an idea what kind of hack is asking...
mcb
Member
I have always used a fine file to sharpen my axes. I recently picked up a diamond file that I have been suing on the above axe. Its 325 grit on one side and 1200 on the other. Does an acceptable job.
On my small Gerber/Fiskar hand axe I use for splitting ribs and pelvis on deer I actually use the same crock sticks I use to sharpen my knives I just set the sticks at 25 degrees for a tougher edge.
ETA: This is the file and diamond file that go with me anytime I have one of my axes with me. If I am at home I use a much bigger file cause I have them but these two travel well.
Last edited:
Kingcreek
Member
I use a fine file and a Norton 2 sided puck.
I won a bet once by sharpening a grandfors bruks axe and shaving with it. I don't recommend it.
Yea it shaved like a razor but rolled the edge pretty bad first whack on wood after that. Probably sent more time resetting a proper working axe edge than I did on the razor stunt.
I won a bet once by sharpening a grandfors bruks axe and shaving with it. I don't recommend it.
Yea it shaved like a razor but rolled the edge pretty bad first whack on wood after that. Probably sent more time resetting a proper working axe edge than I did on the razor stunt.
edwardware
Member
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2010
- Messages
- 4,424
Several points:
- I don't want a keen edge on an axe. . . it'll fold too easily. I want a formed, sorta-sharp edge that lasts a year or two.
- To achieve that, I use a belt sander, at most once a year.
- I don't want a keen edge on an axe. . . it'll fold too easily. I want a formed, sorta-sharp edge that lasts a year or two.
- To achieve that, I use a belt sander, at most once a year.
mcb
Member
You can have a keen knife sharp edge that also holds up well to use. No it won't be razor sharp if you use proper axe geometry but you can still have a very sharp edge on an axe that is still durable. My axe pictured up thread is knife sharp and has held that edge for months despite a fair bit of use around the hunting property. Good steel will let you use thinner geometries and still retain an keen edge under hard axe type use. I suspect an axe from Lowes/Home Depot would not have retain the same edge as I put on my axe that is made from 5160 steel.
A good edge makes for a lot less work and the reason that small mill file and diamond file goes with the axe. If it needs sharped in the middle of a job I will stop and do so, the time spent sharping will be made up in the work after with the sharper blade.
lemaymiami
Member
You can cut yourself sharpening an axe with a file - if you're not careful... The way I was taught you brace the axe or hatchet head on the ground next to a small log or other support , heel down and edge up- then with the head secured you file down towards the head - carefully. Get carried away or not paying attention and your sharpening stroke can bring your hand entirely too close to the edge...
All I ever got was a slight nick but it could have been worse - and as usual it was operator error...
All I ever got was a slight nick but it could have been worse - and as usual it was operator error...
mcb
Member
Definitely a danger but using a big file with a handle on it all but eliminates that potential danger. The longer file makes you less likely to get close to your pushing hand and a handle on the file will protect your hand by impacting the cutting edger rather than your soft hand assuming you don't lift you hand on the forward stroke.
Cut resistant Dyneema gloves are also very common now get a pair they have saved my hands more than once for damage.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-Large-Unisex-Nitrile-Multipurpose-Gloves/1000865870
Love these gloves, good grip and the dyneema woven into them is very protective from cuts and abrasion. Hit my hand with a right angle grinder running flat out with a wire wheel on it and my hand was undamaged and the glove only had a small abraded hole in the left index finger.
theotherwaldo
Member
-Nice tip on the gloves.
Just bought a pair.
Also picked up a Fort Meigs pattern belt ax as my annual "I don't have to split kindling anymore" celebration... .
Just bought a pair.
Also picked up a Fort Meigs pattern belt ax as my annual "I don't have to split kindling anymore" celebration... .
ApacheCoTodd
member
I've always draw-filed hatchets, hand-axes and full size.
2 grades of files just in case. Get those rascals cutting fine in very short order.
I know it sounds abusive to some but with discretion - it really is not. I have two axes that were already old when I got them in the 70's and they've only ever known files for sharpening.
Todd.
2 grades of files just in case. Get those rascals cutting fine in very short order.
I know it sounds abusive to some but with discretion - it really is not. I have two axes that were already old when I got them in the 70's and they've only ever known files for sharpening.
Todd.
- Status
