Master Blaster
Member
I take pride in my ammo and I always polish my brass till it shines.
Shiny brass doesn't shoot better but......
- Thread starter usnmars
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What are you guys using to get your brass clean? A quick look around shows me vibratory/media rigs, rotary with stainless pins and liquid, ultrasonic...maybe more.
I have a vibratory tumber with corn cob media that really doesn't do anything other than get big dirt off the outside of the brass...it never comes out shiny (although i might need ot get new media).
I like the look of the shiny brass but when I read about draining liquid, then rinsing, then drying on a towel it sounds like a lot of time invested just to get it shiny.
Besides buying new brass...what is the fastest and most convenient way to get your brass shiny? Or is there no easy way?
I have a vibratory tumber with corn cob media that really doesn't do anything other than get big dirt off the outside of the brass...it never comes out shiny (although i might need ot get new media).
I like the look of the shiny brass but when I read about draining liquid, then rinsing, then drying on a towel it sounds like a lot of time invested just to get it shiny.
Besides buying new brass...what is the fastest and most convenient way to get your brass shiny? Or is there no easy way?
For dry cleaning, I generally use walnut shells. For cleaning, just he walnet shells, for polishing, I add some polish. Generally only the outside gets polished as the insdie will still be blackened.
I think corn cob cleans better than walnut shells and walnut shells polishes better but I might have that backwards.
Wet tumbling with stainles steel pins will clean and polish the cse like new both inside and outside. Even the primer pockets are cleaned. The case looks brand new.
Wet tumbling is a bit more labor intensive. With 15 pound capaciyt Thumler's Tumbler you only get to do about two pounds of cases. The rest is water and stainless steel pins.
A bit more labor intensive and the cases are out of service for longer due to drying time. I am still woring on reliable, and dry, way to separte the pin from the cases without losing too many pins.
Dry tumbling does an adequate job the quickest not counting the actual tumbling time.
I think corn cob cleans better than walnut shells and walnut shells polishes better but I might have that backwards.
Wet tumbling with stainles steel pins will clean and polish the cse like new both inside and outside. Even the primer pockets are cleaned. The case looks brand new.
Wet tumbling is a bit more labor intensive. With 15 pound capaciyt Thumler's Tumbler you only get to do about two pounds of cases. The rest is water and stainless steel pins.
A bit more labor intensive and the cases are out of service for longer due to drying time. I am still woring on reliable, and dry, way to separte the pin from the cases without losing too many pins.
Dry tumbling does an adequate job the quickest not counting the actual tumbling time.
Uggh. That's a long time for a small load of brass. If I leave that many 9mm cases in my vibratory tumbler while I sleep, they come out way shinier than steel pins can ever achieve.
The pluses for stainless steel are
1. primer pockets and interior of brass are cleaned
2. don't need to replace media
3. no dust. I would rather have a wet tumbler in my basement/garage than a vibratory. I leave my vibratory outside.
4. Even when shiny, handling of regular tumbled brass leaves dust/residue on your hands. Stainless tumbled brass is truly clean.
Pluses for vibratory:
1. can be used to dry cases
2. My cheap Berry's tumbler can do more or less exactly 700 9mm cases when loaded to capacity.
3. Can wax the brass so it stays shinier, longer.
4. No pins stuck in flashholes!!!
5. Don't have to dry cases after tumbling!
jcwit
member
I was thinking the same thing. I would think these rare earth magnets "Neodymium" should work. I know for a fact they stick to any S/S knife I own.
I'll quit now as any more thinking on my part will only cause harm.
Hey wait! Only time I've EVER experienced this is when way to much polish is placed into the media or when the media itself is long since worn out.
I'll quit now as any more thinking on my part will only cause harm.
Hey wait! Only time I've EVER experienced this is when way to much polish is placed into the media or when the media itself is long since worn out.
Depends on the quality of the SS. I have some my rare earth magnet won't attract in the least, I have some that the magnet will hold lightly, and some that slams against the magnet it pulls it so hard. I wonder what the pins are made of. Someone should be able to tell us if a magnet will attract them.
Yep, or you let it get too dry. A sprinkle of water here and there will fix that.
JohnM
Member
The way to rinse and recover that SS media is through a big screen mesh into another tub with water. Then you have your media captured safely in a bucket without loss.
An old food drier works great for drying cases. I tried it out, works like a top.
I was going to try that stuff since I already had an old antique Thumlers rotary, but finally decided, why?
Walnut does all I need, no sense in going all fancy.
An old food drier works great for drying cases. I tried it out, works like a top.
I was going to try that stuff since I already had an old antique Thumlers rotary, but finally decided, why?
Walnut does all I need, no sense in going all fancy.
I've found 3/4 gal in the Thumler Model B does as good a job as a full gal - both run for 4 hours. Here's a table with some common calibers to calculate the brass it'll hold, using the 15# suggested max weight.
With 3/4 gal H2O, you can load 3.75 lbs of brass ...
/Bryan
With 3/4 gal H2O, you can load 3.75 lbs of brass ...
/Bryan
Shrinkmd
Member
I'll have to try the 3/4 gallon method and see how it comes out.
I am definitely hooked on the stainless steel method. No more wondering if the primer popped out when resizing, and it looks like new ammo. Nothing like taking disgusting, mud caked range pickups and turning them new again.
I've also discovered that less is more with the lemishine and dawn detergent.
The simplest way to dry the cases? Big fluffy towel. After you shake off as much water as possible from whatever colander you are using, then dump the cases on one end of the towel, fold it over and rub them back and forth. Then open the towel and pour them to the other, dry end of the towel. Then fold the other dry half over and rub them again for a bit. By the time your next load is done (4 or 5 hours) the cases are dry enough not to get weird water stain spots all over. Except maybe on the inside or in a primer pocket, but it's good enough. No heat lamps or other energy using devices.
I am definitely hooked on the stainless steel method. No more wondering if the primer popped out when resizing, and it looks like new ammo. Nothing like taking disgusting, mud caked range pickups and turning them new again.
I've also discovered that less is more with the lemishine and dawn detergent.
The simplest way to dry the cases? Big fluffy towel. After you shake off as much water as possible from whatever colander you are using, then dump the cases on one end of the towel, fold it over and rub them back and forth. Then open the towel and pour them to the other, dry end of the towel. Then fold the other dry half over and rub them again for a bit. By the time your next load is done (4 or 5 hours) the cases are dry enough not to get weird water stain spots all over. Except maybe on the inside or in a primer pocket, but it's good enough. No heat lamps or other energy using devices.
jbradley
Member
I have the Tumbler's Model B and love it.
I am doing some testing for a company that specializes in media (Yes it is a known company here on the board).
In my testing, I have gotten down to only using a Nyquil cap of the compound (think it is 30ml), and about 20 ounces, or just a little more of water.
I have actually ran at least 500 cases of 9mm with no problem.
Time tests on the first compound were run from 15 min to 10 hours and saw no significant improvement after 2 hours.
I have to run the same test on what looks like the compound they will go into production with as it seems there may be a differece in the results.
Coming from the jewelry industry and using magnetic tumblers (also wet method), the smaller amount of water seemed really odd at first. For me, the results have sold me on it.
I am doing some testing for a company that specializes in media (Yes it is a known company here on the board).
In my testing, I have gotten down to only using a Nyquil cap of the compound (think it is 30ml), and about 20 ounces, or just a little more of water.
I have actually ran at least 500 cases of 9mm with no problem.
Time tests on the first compound were run from 15 min to 10 hours and saw no significant improvement after 2 hours.
I have to run the same test on what looks like the compound they will go into production with as it seems there may be a differece in the results.
Coming from the jewelry industry and using magnetic tumblers (also wet method), the smaller amount of water seemed really odd at first. For me, the results have sold me on it.
Seedtick
Member
Thanks John, that sounds pretty good.
Keep us updated.
Seedtick
Keep us updated.
Seedtick
With wet tumbling with stainless steel pins, the cases really come out looking like new inside and out. Yes, they are that clean, I mean really, really clean. Inside, outside and primer pockets.
The offset is that wet tumbling is more labor intensive and slower (smaller batches) than dry tumbling. I find I have to run the wet tumbler for 4 hours plus to get the cases clean, although I do not wet tumble every cycle so my cases are very dirty. After tumbling, the cases have to be rinsed and dried.
With dry tumbling, the outside of the cases are clean and bright, but the insides still show some powder blackening.
For wet tumbling, the Thunbler tumbler will hold about two pounds of cases for each cycle.
1SOW
Member
For pistol rounds, I've convinced myself shiny slippery brass performs smoother in the mags and feeds better into the chamber.
I find ways to further justify anything I like.
Does washing and waxing your car make it get better gas mileage and go faster? It works that way for aircraft.
I find ways to further justify anything I like.
Does washing and waxing your car make it get better gas mileage and go faster? It works that way for aircraft.
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Fishslayer
Member
Mmmmmm.... Ammo Pr0n!
Arkansas Paul
Member
I always do this, but never knew if it actually helped anything or not. Good to know.
I agree. It's really no work at all. Turn the tumbler on. Come back in 2-3 hours and turn it off. If that's too much work for you, maybe you should just go watch tv or something.
Dnaltrop
Member
I'm not lazy, I just don't want tumbler dust in my limited areas.
Ultrasonic using vinegar and baking soda solutions has worked wonderfully for me.
http://www.6mmbr.com/ultrasonic.html using this fellow's "Cheap and Clean" method. takes under an hour each batch. I can squeeze 50 .45 colts into my small cleaner.
I can't see myself in them but they squeak when you touch them. I usually load them 3 times before running the cycles again. They get a good wipedown otherwise before they are run through the dies.
Ultrasonic using vinegar and baking soda solutions has worked wonderfully for me.
http://www.6mmbr.com/ultrasonic.html using this fellow's "Cheap and Clean" method. takes under an hour each batch. I can squeeze 50 .45 colts into my small cleaner.
I can't see myself in them but they squeak when you touch them. I usually load them 3 times before running the cycles again. They get a good wipedown otherwise before they are run through the dies.
Sport45
Member
usnmars said:
It lasts longer for me. The shiny stuff is easier to find in the grass than the tarnished brown cases. Someday I may have to try out the wet SS polishing...
XxBulletBendeRXx
Member
I like my Brass Shined up Nice when time permits.. No tumbler here, I just clean with soap and vinegar, then hand polish my "match" loads anyhow,... When in need of a couple boxes loaded up for a quickie to the range.. dull is ok!! Shinny is preferred
amlevin
Member
For the amount of water to use with the SS pins, my Sidewinder Tumbler only holds about 1/2 gallon of water. I load 5# of pins, 150 pieces of .308 Brass, 1 Tbsp. Dawn, and 1/4 Tsp of Lemi-Shine. After 4 hours the brass is ready for the next steps. I shake the brass dry after separating and rinsing, then trim while slightly damp. Something I can do while the brass is still slightly damp.
gamestalker
member
My purposes for keeping my brass looking good has little to do with appearance. It makes inspection after each shot easier to spot issues. I also don't use anything on my brass to polish it. I like my brass 100% free of anything that could interfere with case seize, especially since I load with slow burning powders and upper end pressures. I also wipe the outside of my brass off with a clean cotton patch with pure acetone to make sure it is free of any element that could interfere with case seize.
GS
GS
XxBulletBendeRXx
Member
After a long day at the range on Sunday.. Now I have a lot of brass to blean up... found some Lapua and hornady match 308 brass. Not to mention plenty of fed 308 brass. ... I love it when the older guys get lazy and leave some good stuff behind. anyhow.. Off to clean and shine up this brass, so when It comes time to load they are ready.....
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